trond

I see it's alot of work to replace :( Think I might just cut the out the bottom of the crossmember and sand blast as much as possible....

yes, sorry about the confusion, see you call it front crossmember.

Hi I discovered a few small rustholes on the subframe. The rest outside seems and sound ok. I've opened up and it lookes like it only around the holes I found that is rusted trough. There is some surface rust that I can see. Mostly around where the tension rod parts are mounted to the subrame. So I need advice. Cut out the buttom of the subrame and remove rust and weld in a new buttom part on the subframe? or Patch up the holes that is there now and spray the inside as best I can with some rust remover/binder or something and replace the subframe next winter?

I have adjustable parts in frot also, with no bushing. Take a speedbumb. When driving over, it feels ok in the front. It's a bit stiff but soaks up the bumb well. The rear. Stiff as hell. It feels more like it just slams down. Like there is no dampner/springs at all. Its the same on coilover and original springsa and dampner. My thought. Rear to light ?? I have removes the hicas, diff cooler as all other things not needed. Can poly bushing change the car from sporty to hard/harsh as hell ?

I had the rear subframe out and replaced the bushing with poly bushings and on all the other suspension parts also and installed ksport coilovers. I just thought the ride was this harsh because of the ksport. But it was still harsh when installing original dampener and spring. So thought maybe the dampener was done for. Replaced with some new eBay dampener. Still harsh as hell. Bought and installed powertrix coilovers. Rear still harsh/hard as hell. Front is fine. Questions is can I have done something wrong with the bushings?

Hi, can someone tell me what the original offset is front and rear on a European 2+2 model?

Alternator is DEAD.. That's the second alternator i've killed over 10 years. Thanks for the link :)

When I start the car I get the 3 lights : ABS, trans oil and diff oil. Its a 1990 300zx. The battery gives 11.8v with lght,fan,aircon on other lectic stuff on. Whwn I turn it off i get 12v. Sometimes when I rev the engine he lights go away and the battery/alternator goes up to about 13.5v I have checked the fuses by the battery and cleaned them. No difference. The three lights are alway on now. I think the altenator is dying, but if there is somethig else I can check please let me know?

When I start the car I get the 3 lights : ABS, trans oil and diff oil. Its a 1990 300zx. The battery gives 11.8v with lght,fan,aircon on other lectic stuff on. Whwn I turn it off i get 12v. Sometimes when I rev the engine he lights go away and the battery/alternator goes up to about 13.5v I have checked the fuses by the battery and cleaned them. No difference. The three lights are alway on now. I think the altenator is dying, but if there is somethig else I can check please let me know?

found the problem. One of the wires to the injector was broken. One small but big problem solved. Thank you :)

had time to do something today. Did a test on the coils and number 6 doesn't seem to work. Changed all the spark plugs and swaped coil pack number six with number five. But coil 6 still doesn't work. I have splitfire coilpacks. All ohmed 0.9.

Here goes... The car has been sitting in the garage for a year. Just had the engine and transport out. Replaced the actuators with ones that I can change the spring on. Currently 3.75psi spring. Also changed the oem engine mount with some ams engine mounts for more engine space and because of the actuators. Engine and trans back in. Fired it up and idles fine at first start. The problem begins at the first test run. With the avcr of I get about 0.1 bar boost. I am able to get 0.3-0.4 bar with avcr on. That seems to be max. The other thing is that when driving I get a really bad vibration/rumble. It's worst in fifth gear. Feels like less vibration/rumble if I go down to forth or third and so on. Vibration/rumble dissappear when I go off the throttle og put in neutral. Let's says I'm driving at 70km/h in fifth. I got the vibration/rumble. If I go og the throttle the issue dissappear. Thebrumble/vibration is there a crusing speed. But gets really bad when acceleration The vibration/rumble is so bad that I have to go from fish to fourth just to get up a hill. Feels like a major vacuum /boost leak, but did a boost leak test and didn't hear any hissing, so no leaks.... Hint/tips? Questions?

It seems I have a reading on the aac when I checked with datascan. Is said 12. Tried to adjust the idle valve. The problem is that I could not get it lower the about 750. The idle screw was all the way in and engine still running. Engine temp was 70 c. (nismo thermostat)

It has been a few years since I had the engine out on my car... Read up on engine removal guides and have a question. Why do I have to remove the fan, drivebelts, loosen alternator, ac compressor?

The value on the two maf was not with a running engine. When running at idle the value is about 1.47... I might forgot to mention that I have replaced the complete oem idle air with one from z1 motorsport. Made no difference. And both maf are ok. I have nistune. Is there setting I can check for idle? (I don't know that much about nistune because someone else is going to tune the car for me)