cozza

The £3,800 one is mine unfortunately, 3 year project finished but now I'm back on the job market with an upcoming redundancy. Pricing it wasn't easy. As Jeff said, just have to balance the quality. Mine is high mileage and has both tasteful and un-tasteful mods on a UK model and an imperfect body, versus a clean import with lower mileage.

Motor is good. Not found a wiring issue so far, tryna source a new amplifier isn't as easy as I thought haha

Yep mine looks just like that! I'll check out all my alarm wires incase I did something when I had the box off. Cheers for wiring diagram too Andrew. With the blue/white and green wires going to the motor, am I right in saying if I apply a 12V circuit directly to the connector pins (from a spare battery), the motor should start?

Ugh, the wires have been tampered with! Am I right in saying that from the relay/amplifier/black box unit, two wires should go to the window regulator motor itself? Thick green, and thick blue/white? The green on mine is snipped. The relay/black box end connects to a thick yellow/blue which goes into the car. And the thick green end that comes from the motor connects to a thick green/black, which likewise goes into the car. Haven't been able to find where they go. Likewise with the switch loom. The large white/black wire at the switch end is connected to a thick yellow wire that goes into the car. And the other end of the snipped white/black connects to a thick green wire, which again goes into the car. I'm hoping to magically find a relay of some sort these all connect to for an unknown reason. Only thing I can think of is if he's done this for some kind of switch for the immobiliser he fitted. Just gotta find out what the wires are and where they go! If the wires are the problem..

Hi all, The sagas continue.. After sorting out all the corroded relays in the drivers footwell fusebox and not using the car for a few weeks, the drivers window now doesn't open. Passenger opens/closes fine. The window switch works, and I've read the posts about the amplifier/relay black box at the bottom right of the door panel. I have the exact same sound as the vid here. No motors turning or grinding. So I can hear the contacts clicking when I press the up/down switch, and can see them clicking now I've taken the black cover off. I didn't see any broken solder contacts (pic below), but I resoldered and cleaned up all the connections at the pin connector, and most others, however I still have the problem. Could be there something else wrong with the unit besides the solder? Have I messed up something in the drivers footwell fusebox? Could the motor have died with no drive instantly? Or any other electrical connections known to cause problems hahah. Any help appreciated!

Fair point guys, I'll get it replaced now before I need it later in life. Cheers for the advice. It isn't my daily so I can take the screw out now till I get a new one. I fitted a used corrosion free radiator from banzai breakers for a manual TT. I don't remember a bleed screw on my last one.. as I bled it all years back when doing the pump/belt etc.. but I'm probably wrong by what you are saying. Every day is a school day with these beasts!

Unfortunately the screw drive has been rounded. I got it out by pressing hard (molding a new drive..) and turning with a large flat screw driver. There's a small seal there too from what I saw, which was gubbed. So to get around both issues, I just sealed it with the screw back in. Am I right in saying it was just the Japanese spec that had these bleed screws? My previous radiator didn't. Or perhaps later models

Just for an update. Re-bled it all again, definitely no air traps now. When under pressure when it's all hot, there is no vibration/rattling. Just a tiny bit when low pressure. No problems on motorway or town driving though so who knows! The new radiator also actually had a bleed valve on the top, which had a small leak, so that wouldn't have helped. Used RTV to seal the thread up, and all is well now. Cheers for the help

I know the jiggle pin moves about, hoping it's that. The car heats up fine, both the inlet and outlet hoses are hot, temperature gauge good. Hot air in blowers. But that is slightly worrying! Trying to remember the replacement procedure, just for good measure. Coolant drain, radiator/fan out, bottom pipe off enough? Last time I did it I had everything off so it was very easy.

Hi all, I have a rattle, noticeable when moving/squeezing either coolant pipes (see vid). So recently: *Car on ramps at the front so radiator cap is the highest point *Leaking radiator removed *Used radiator fitted, new coolant pipes also fitted *Filled with bluecol 2y stuff, 50//50 mix *Left to sit for a day, topped up, ran till at operating temperature with heaters on full blast and nice and hot *Re-topped up *Few days later out to get it test-ran, came back and still had air bubbling in the system as I could heat it gurgling (or water boiling.. :ohmy: ) in the engine itself (not the rad) *Instantly get it up on ramps again, no overheating at the temp gauge, fan working fine Come today, I've gone to check it over and noticed this rattle coming from the thermostat (I think). This a fail-safe thermostat, that has done less than 100 miles since I fitted it 3 years ago. Have I fried my thermostat from poor bleeding, or do I have a loose washer kicking about my cooling circuit..? OR is it simply the thermostat jiggle pin that I haven't noticed before? The noise can be heard without much pressure, on either coolant pipe. Cheers! 1990 UK auto TT

Better find me some new parts! Will post a wanted ad. Unless anyone here has a working set up for sale?

Noope.. :/

APEXI AVC-R boost controller, not played with the settings yet from the previous owners set up. APEXI cone air filter. Unorthodox racing pulley

Yeah after running for less than a minute it was back to normal, just thought I'd check! Thanks for the replies, so I'd expect about 80C. I'll run it with the conzult/laptop whilst driving and see what that says. It has a custom fan on it too, and have been recommended to return it to the viscous style. But then the custom one can be set to be a bit more sensitive, control switch right by the fan. Don't want this beast to overheat in the first week haha

Hi all, Just got my beast MOT'd, 3 year project at an end, just got a question about the normal operating temperature though. Where about does the needle sit on your dials? (if that is accurate enough). One observation I had, temperature is about midway all the time, but then I turned it off for 2 minutes, started it back up again and the temperature was about 3/4 of the way up, not sure if there's a circulation issue with the sensor sitting with an idle part of coolant or? Any thoughts welcome! Cheers Colin 1990 Z32 UK spec auto TT