mr_pink_78

Sound advice Turbo Boy, thanks. I might put it in Autotrader at a couple of ton over £3k and go from there. Thanks!

Hi all, I'm going to sell the Zed, as I haven't used her yet this year! She is an H reg TT Auto LWB in black with black leather, about 80k, and loads of nice servicing done including regular oil changes and timing belt service. Just had a secondary oil cooler put in too. I know it probably doesn't add much to the price but she is sitting on brand new KYB adjustable gas dampers and eibach springs, brand new drilled and grooved discs with red stuff pads at the front, braided hoses, new tension rod bushes etc etc. Nice smooth ride, not crashed or thrashed! I've been looking in Autotrader and the prices seem to go from under £2000, which seems too little, up to late £3000's, which seems too much. I was thinking aiming for £3000 would be ok, or is this too cheap? Or perhaps too much? I can't tell! Any help appreciated, as always! Thanks, Mr Pink

Your stopping problem sounds like your gearbox is knacked. I'm sure someone on here can tell you why, but it's happened on my last two gearboxes, a few months before gears started disappearing. After replacing the box it is fine again. Get your gearbox oil changed, see if any little bits of metal fall out? Cheers Mr Pink

In my mission to create more things to fix I decided to change the head unit. Everything was working except for the rear speakers and sub yesterday (TV, DVD, bluetooth, ipod, radio and front speakers all fine) Today I decided to finish it off. Except I finished it off in a different way to which I was intending. Found the rear speakers in mine are aftermarket and are wired direct (not in ISO) so wired the first in, then checked it, it was fine. Wired in the second and there is now no sound. At all. disconnected some of the wires and there is still no sound. Have I broken the head unit by wiring in the rear left speaker?? Thanks, Mr Pink

Gently open it up? I always worry when I have to do things 'gently', as it usually means 'break it'. I'll muster the courage to do it - or I'll get a second hand one! Thanks to all for your help and advice! Mr Pink

Tension rod bushes. That's what it was on mine. You won't believe the difference new ones make. Mr Pink

Hi there, thanks very much for your replies. I had the door card off this morning and found the amplifier, unplugged it - couldn't figure out how to get into it, plugged it in again and the window worked. Put the door card back on and found the window didn't work. Took the door card off again and unplugged the amplifier and plugged it back in and it worked. Tried wiggling all the cables to see if I could find a loose connection but it was fine. Put the door card back on and the window now still works! There must be a reason but I can't see it, so I'm a bit confused, but at least it is working for now! Thanks again for your help. Mr Pink

Hi there, My driver's side window has stopped working. Could anyone tell me where the fuse is for this please? I've found the fuse for the passenger side (but that works) - is there one for the drivers side? I hope it's not the window motor (again) Thanks Mr Pink

Hi again, Had a gander last night, and worked out that it's not in time with the wheels. It's more related to the revs. I guess that eliminates brakes and wheel bearings. Loose gearbox mount is worth a look too, I'll try to jack up the car at the weekend and wiggle a few bits to see if anything gives a clue. I'll do a search on checking the diff oil too. Thanks! Mr Pink

Sorry, forgot to ask - how can I check the diff oil level, please? I'll check the brakes as well, though - cos that's a good suggestion too. Cheers! Mr Pink

Thanks for the replies, it's new since I had yet another second hand autobox fitted, so a few things have been taken off and put back on again during that, like the prop shaft and the exhausts, for example. Thanks again, I'll have a look around at the weekend! Mr Pink

Sorry - the noise is coming from the back!

Hi there, My car has just started squealing when accelerating hard, usually when coming out of a T junction turning right or left, then continuing down the road (in a straight line) unless I'm very gentle. Is this wheel bearings or do you think it's the diff, please? Thanks for your time! Mr Pink

Hi there, I've used 10k boost on all my previous cars, cos they've all been quite old and it makes me feel like i've done something useful. I bought some the other day for the z but when I opened the bonnet, I found there was a confusing number of pipes. I shut the bonnet and reopened it again to make sure but no, the pipes were still there. It has directions on the packet to put it after the AFM but I don't know where that is. On my old supras it was obvious but I did have trouble keeping the car running whilst I did it. Can I put it directly in after the turbos where the turbo pipes connect to the head bit or shall I throw it in the bin? Any help greatly appreciated. Mr Pink

Jack it up and look at the underside of the suspension bits nearest the inner edge of the tyre. Mine's only on 17's and original suspension (saggy) and I can clearly see a charming mark where the tyres are fouling. i.e. there is a mark where the suspension component is not as muddy as the rest, about an inch square. Presumably it happens when going round a bumpy corner cos I can fit my fingers between it and the tyre otherwise. I've also heard worn suspension will allow this to happen due to the sagging, but if yours is on 18s and lowered or whatnot I suppose the problem is aggrevated further. I think somewhere on this forum it is said that to lower a 300, adjustable tension rods and upper arms + camber kit should be considered, or something like that. Mr Pink

Hi there, not much help but more supportive evidence; my auto does exactly the same in reverse, but only on a cold start in winter. I wondered if it is oil/temperature related. It feels very similar to the limp home mode the gearbox seems to have sometimes like when I destroyed the last gearbox. Also, when cold, the car will stall sometimes when going from reverse to drive or vice versa. I try to avoid it by running the car for a minute or so before use. Helps a bit. Don't have the 1 - 2 - 4 - 3 - 4 gear selection problem though...

OK, I'll have a look tonight and let you know about the tension rods then, thanks Royal. And thanks again to all the others who've helped out with great replies. Cheers! Mr Pink

Thanks for all of your replies, very much appreciated. I'll have a look at the recon kits first I think. Bit worried about the tension rod things now. :( Cheers! Mr Pink P.S. The motor is an auto TT LWB, 1990.

Hi there, hope you are well. I was wondering if anyone knew of a place/website where i can purchase a reconditioned front caliper from, please? My passenger side one goes click when i use the brakes, and squeals when braking lightly. The front shakes when braking hard around 60mph, so i think the disc is knackered too...again. Thanks for your time, Mr Pink

Hi there, I'm brand new to 300zx's - just bought an auto and have a noisy propshaft. Can anyone recommend where's best to get a replacement bush/propshaft from please? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks JP