Ollgeeze

Is it an OEM one with the plastic top? Id be a bit worried about it failing again I think as I've heard the plastic goes brittle on the originals. What would you want for it posted?

So after two years of fettling I finally mot'd my zed yesterday, passed with flying colours. After about 15 minutes of sustaining a cheek acheing toothy grin the effing rad popped on the way home.. Serious kick in the balls and the grin. Been searching around and can't find an N.A. radiator anywhere except concept z in the US. Anyone know where best to buy? Also wondering why it might have popped? It popped at the plastic at the top. Rad cap is a bit crappy..

So I unearthed my ECU today to find a Kakimoto sticker on it. It's a 91 n/a. Is it likely to do much for an n/a? The guy i bought it off did say the fuel economy was surprisingly good on long runs and i was pleasantly surprised at how little petrol i had to put in it to get it home.. Not really driven it much since as I've been restoring it, but getting it on the road soon. Is it a proper remap or just a standard plug in job?

Well that makes a lot of sense ? I assumed the old bumper necessitated a gap.. Thanks.

So I'm finally soon to get my zed back on the road after a small restoration. Question being since I've removed the original boot rot spoiler and replaced with a series 2. Do i need a new full width trim to go in between the lights and the upper acrylic/3rd brake light or do you just have a gap in between the trims or no trim at all? Currently i have two trims which fit to the boot lid under/behind the boot lid acrylic. But they obviously don't meet at the middle.

It seems at some stage my car had a similar issue to this, reason I know is because of a massive amount of corrosion around the area where the brake fluid had been on the paintwork inside the engine bay and had also made its way onto the inner arch and corroded the paint underneath the stone chip stuff.. Make sure you clean it all up properly after u've sorted the leak..

A Citroën 2cv. Probably the most fun car I've ever driven... You don't go around islands you just go over them.

Is it wise to replace? I like to keep everything stock unless it makes a significant difference and doesn't 'molest' it in any way.. I put k&N filters in if it makes any beans :p

Lwb manual N/A.. Not much to look at at the minute.. I like to pretend the horns are turbos..

Strange how few lwb na manuals there are..?

Probe is about a metre long and mercifully just fits in the holes underneath the plastic sill cover under the door without even having to remove the plugs, you just slide them over. I think that covers the outer sill. If you want to cover the inner sill I think you need to uncover the tape covered holes under the carpet and wangle it in there. Also if you remove the plastic wheel arch linings at the front there is an access hole under a rubber bung which allows good access to the front end. There seems to be like a middle sill though aswell.... Only jesus knows how to get in there..

Can vouch for this. Make sure it only touches the exhaust though because it will also remove much of the car :p Also wear gloves or it will make you very aware of a number of cuts which you nevertheless you had...

#Sutton Coldfield... Seriously weird auto correct lol..

Sutton-in-Ashfield is ideal for me, only live about 10 miles from there! Email is ollgeeze(at)Hotmail.com really appreciate it thanks.

Lol, funnily enough I've treated it with what they use to treat ships hulls with... Strange thing is there is no sign of corrosion on the outside and the sills are really solid.. I removed some epoxy filler from the arch though so at some point moisture has gotten in through there... Was not expecting it to be this bad!

Uncovered this :thumbdown:

Been looking through old threads for leads on a decent welder/bodywork man... Can I have the number for this chap plz if anyone has it? Where is he based?

Thanks chaps. Looking online. Will a 750ml aerosol done whole job?

Sounds good, is that something I can get at the local auto's? I assume it has rust inhibitors in it?

Looking for an OEM Front Bumper, my car is a 91 jap import. Needs to be in good condition, ideally without headlight sprayers. Any colour although metalic grey would be ideal. I'll also need the metal fixing bar thing which runs accross the bottom as mine is bent..

OK so I've got my zed up on stands, have had a good go with the wire brush, and am about to wax oil the underside and was wondering before I get spraying whether there are any areas that I should avoid or any areas where I should be particularly generous? Also am gonna fill the sills but with what? Oil, cavity wax, wax oil, or fertan (rust converter)? Or a combination of those?

Semi it is then... *phew* lol.

More confused than ever now. Gaz's link convinced me that fully synthetic was a no brainer and now I don't know what to go for... Can I go fully synth and then if a leak springs up change to semi and just put up with a bit of a leak until it bungs up? Wouldn't synthetic be the better option for maintaining good seals? Assuming they are good..

Here here! I also put 5w-30 in mine with no leaks. It's not been driven though, just tick over for periods and revved a little when warm. Though all indications are I have a tight healthy engine also. I'll do a flush, filter change and change to the 5w-40 and hopefully all will be OK..

Yeh, I had some knowledge about the numbers, but I have read a few times people remarking about synthetic somehow being thinner than mineral based oils.. Doesn't seem to make any sense since the numbers dictate viscosity, like you say. Like it isn't confusing enough no worries about the heads up.