tandyn300

Anything to do with maintenance of the PAS system can get messy quickly. To drain the upper part of the system use a syringe with a tube on the end to get as far down the source and return hoses as you can. You will need a couple of syringes as trans fluid and the piston rubbers don't get along! It is important to try to avoid letting air into the HICAS solenoid and so before drawing the reservoir fluid, pinch-off the hoses to/from the solenoid so as to retain fluid in that part of the hydraulic circuit. Isolating in this way should eliminate the need to bleed the rear power cylinder at the back of the car. Note that the hoses physically connected to the reservoir are not at high pressure; those from the pump are and should be thoroughly checked for cracks, splits or union leaks. A mysterious slight but chronic fluid loss was finally explained when Jimmer, fitting a reconditioned pump, identified a leak in the high pressure pump-steering hose. I also had a pump-Hicas solenoid hose develop a weeping split. Incidentally if you need to replace an HP hose you can get a replacement remade using the original banjo connectors. There are specialists about in the UK. A word of warning. The alternator lives beneath the PAS pump and has had a bad reputation for unreliability. The clue is in the location. Any leaks from the pump or hoses connected to it and aided by gravity, can and do find their way into the vitals of the alternator. So if you are really keen suggest getting your two chamber pump reconditioned. Seal kits still seem to be readily available together with replacement bearings. Somewhere on the forum I did a small write up on a mickey-mouse mod to the PAS reservoir level sender/ nylon sleeve to eliminate a sticking problem which can occur when the fluid gets hot.

For the hardy types who still have hydraulic HICAS in their machines... Ocassionally on a run, the HICAS warning light came on and stayed on. Steering function remained normal and the fluid level was ok and on a re-start, after say five minutes, light operation returned to normal - for a while. Conzult provided no clues either. The HICAS sensor is basicaly a magnetically actuated reed switch which is located at the lower end of the tube attached to the bottom of the reservoir cap. The metallic sleeve at the centre of the float is a magnet, which if maintained above the level of the reed switch will not cause the reed contacts to close and consequently turn on the HICAS warning light. With the engine running there is a lot of turbulence in the HICAS reservoir and the fluid gets hot. To shield the float/magnet from the turbulent flow, a plastic sleeve incorporating fine mesh 'windows' is fitted to the neck of the reservoir. Normally the float should move freely within the sleeve. However over time and with perpetual temperature cycling, what was a loose fit between sleeve and float becomes an irregular interference fit, causing the float to jam. As the ATF fluid heats up the float expands, so does the sleeve and more significantly, so does the distortion of the porous fine mesh. Also with age, fluid has permeated into the float, affecting its buoyancy and expansion characteristics. So much for the 'theory'. So how to eliminate the possibility of the float becoming jammed. Smoothly shaving off sufficient material from the diameter of the float turns out to be easily over done, quickly rewarded by a float that doesn't and a permanent warning light. Then try buying a replacement float. About now disconnecting the sensor starts to look attractive. Leaving the sleeve out altogether removes the likelihood of jamming but would expose the float to the full maelstrom in the reservoir and the possibility of an even more annoying rapidly blinking HICAS light. Don't know about this, didn't actually try it as I was on my last sensor/float combo. Trying to permanently slightly distort the shape of the sleeve by applying heat was binned, given that the sleeve lives in hot fluid As a final resort I cut out the distorted fine mesh windows in the plastic sleeve. This retained the essence of what Nissan orinally intended and it actually works, reliably. Not sure of the real esidual benefit of retaining the meshless sleeve, but I don't get that annoying light, steady or blinking, other than when it is supposed to work. Hope this helps.

For the hardy types who still have hydraulic HICAS in their machines... Ocassionally on a run, the HICAS warning light came on and stayed on. Steering function remained normal and the fluid level was ok and on a re-start, after say five minutes, light operation returned to normal - for a while. Conzult provided no clues either. The HICAS sensor is basicaly a magnetically actuated reed switch which is located at the lower end of the tube attached to the bottom of the reservoir cap. The metallic sleeve at the centre of the float is a magnet, which if maintained above the level of the reed switch will not cause the reed contacts to close and consequently turn on the HICAS warning light. With the engine running there is a lot of turbulence in the HICAS reservoir and the fluid gets hot. To shield the float/magnet from the turbulent flow, a plastic sleeve incorporating fine mesh 'windows' is fitted to the neck of the reservoir. Normally the float should move freely within the sleeve. However over time and with perpetual temperature cycling, what was a loose fit between sleeve and float becomes an irregular interference fit, causing the float to jam. As the ATF fluid heats up the float expands, so does the sleeve and more significantly, so does the distortion of the porous fine mesh. Also with age, fluid has permeated into the float, affecting its buoyancy and expansion characteristics. So much for the 'theory'. So how to eliminate the possibility of the float becoming jammed. Smoothly shaving off sufficient material from the diameter of the float turns out to be easily over done, quickly rewarded by a float that doesn't and a permanent warning light. Then try buying a replacement float. About now disconnecting the sensor starts to look attractive. Leaving the sleeve out altogether removes the likelihood of jamming but would expose the float to the full maelstrom in the reservoir and the possibility of an even more annoying rapidly blinking HICAS light. Don't know about this, didn't actually try it as I was on my last sensor/float combo. Trying to permanently slightly distort the shape of the sleeve by applying heat was binned, given that the sleeve lives in hot fluid. As a final resort I cut out the distorted fine mesh windows in the plastic sleeve. This retained the essence of what Nissan orinally intended and it actually works, reliably. Not sure of the real residual benefit of retaining the meshless sleeve, but I don't get that annoying light, steady or blinking, other than when it is supposed to work. Hope this is some help.

Repeating Stephens' question, have you checked the integrity of the vac circuit? If things improve with higher revs, but worsen with lower, this could indicate a leak. If you have not do so already, try disconnecting vac pipes one at time, smallest ones first (at plenum end). A no change result would identify a problem. And don't forget the larger and significant pipe at the back of the balance tube. BTW I use tie-wraps to secure the ends of the small/medium sized vac pipes.

I have Conzult on a netbook which would quickly identify individual problem cylinder(s). Vacuum leaks can cause idling problems and so a quick check of all connections for tightness would eliminate this as a contributory factor (affecting all cylinders). Moving up the more involved scale are the under bonnet electrical connections. Large temperature variation tend to promote contact corrosion and there are plenty of candidates on the Zed. If individual 'faulty' cylinders can be identified (e.g. by Conzult) then if gently waggling the connectors on top of the injectors causes a change in idling this could localize the culprit. The AAIV assembly has a couple of connectors which should also be de-mated and checked for oxidation. Try the easy things to start with, but without something (like Conzult) to localize the focus area to fo it could be a lengthy process of trial and error.

For sale, '91 TT Upper intake assembly comprising polished plenum (intake manifold collector), cleaned throttle bodies and coupling shaft, cleaned and tested AAIV assembly, tested TPS, new Z-Centre gasket set (which cost £76) and ancillary pneumatic connectors/valves fitted to the smaller plenum apertures. As shown the throttle body coolant pipes have been removed from the plenum, but currently not those on the throttle bodies. Only the upper half of the plenum has been polished, with the exception of (the difficult to get at) central collector region which, together with the lower half of the plenum, has only been cleaned. The innards of the plenum have been brushed, treated with throttle body cleaner and thoroughly orinsed out. The throttle bodies have been cleaned, but (other than the part of the venturi) not polished. In addition there is a new set of throttle body/plenum Allen-keyed bolts to replace the originals and all of the other used bolts from the assembly are available. I had planned to fit this hardware after all the effort, but a change of plans means the original outfit remains under the bonnet. I would prefer to sell the whole (dismantled) assembly as a single lot rather than as individual piece parts. I could rebuild the assembly if required, but to reduce maintenance (i.e. polishing) the bare metal should really be treated before installation. £200. Any questions or more detail, please pm me. Thank you.

For sale my twin turbo SWB non-targa 'Slicktop', 1991 JDM, imported '98. Currently third owner since import. Previous owner 2002 until 2014 when odometer indicated 57,750 miles (92.4k km). Current odometer 60.6k miles (97k km). All previous MOTs available together with invoices, receipts and original Japanese Service Book. Externally the car appears largely original and internally, refurbishment of worn cloth has necessitated some deviation from the original all grey tweed. The car is fitted with four speed three mode (for JDM) automatic transmission with overdrive, cruise control, hydraulic HICAS 4WS, Air Con., electrically adjustable and folding door mirrors, electrically adjustable drivers' seat and manually adjusted passenger seat. The original chime function and speed limiter have been disabled, otherwise all equipment works as it should. The interior is unmarked and finished in part tweed cloth trim and the unmarked black OEM carpet is fitted with 'Fairlady' over-mats. A space saver wheel is carried under the rear compartment floor together with an OEM tool kit. The original pattern JDM non-staggered OEM wheels have been retained and powder coated (02/16) to resemble a bright polished metal finish. The tyres are Goodyear 'Efficiency' tyres (03/16) which have probably less than 1k miles wear. It was re-sprayed in '15 maintaining the original OEM colour (a photo record is available) with doors, bonnet, bumpers and wings all removed to facilitate the process. The only corrosion found was at the sill extremities and this was cut out and new metal inserted. The original rear spoiler was replaced with a similar pattern copy. Wings, doors and under-body were, and are Waxoyled. The body panels and doors continue to show no dents, dings and the only blemishes are a couple of difficult to notice stone marks. The rear light clusters and rear centre panel have been replaced with late model versions. The centre panel has been modified to incorporate brighter reversing lights and also to now include a dual rear fog light, whose UK legal requirement had been addressed with a single separately mounted after market lamp. Another subtle modification causes the rear '300zx' logo to illuminate by means of an embedded electro lume panel. More generally in the electrical area, detailed effort has gone into checking cabling (for abrasion) and all connectors, sender and transducer terminals for corrosion or loose fit; particularly for those items in the engine compartment. Z1 sourced replacement bonnet hinge covers, rubber stops and stay bar clips were fitted '18. Seat bolsters, headrests, door cards and the between seats glove box lid have been recovered in a mid-blue tweed cloth. The boot compartment is fitted with an OEM pattern carpet together with supplementary removable protective carpeting to the sides of rear luggage compartment to prevent loose carried items from scuffing the exposed trim surfaces. Behind the internal body trims and door cards and under the carpet, the car is free of any corrosion. Similarly, underneath the car, the coverage, adhesion and durability of the under-body sealant has protected the main floor pan, but as mentioned some repairs to the sill ends was necessary. The previous owner fitted a separately mounted cooler in the auto transmission fluid circuit to bypass the less efficient unit adjacent to the main radiator matrix. The reliability of the ignition system was also improved by replacing the Series 1 Power Transistor Units with Series 2 units and the fog light bulbs were also replaced with higher power types. Some more details:- Engine compartment deletions to improve access and aid maintainability completed at PowerZed (06/16). Brake System drained and refilled 06/15. ATF drained and refilled 06/15. New oil pressure sender fitted (as a precaution) 06/15. AirCon system flushed, re-gassed and pressure tested07/17. Engine bay out-fitted with stainless steel Allen keyed fasteners 03/18. Engine oil/filter changed yearly. 300zx Conzult/ OBD used for monitoring and maintenance. New Engine Room Harness fitted 06/17 (PowerZED) Bosch S4 Battery 07/15 All auxiliary belts replaced 07/17 Cambelt, Bridge Hoses, water pump and Thermostat replaced fitted 06/2016 (PowerZED) HICAS HP feed hose replaced 05/18 Worked-when-it-felt-like-it Clifford alarm replaced by a more cooperative Scorpion Sigma system 06/15 (Sextons) Powerflow stainless steel exhaust replaced previous large bore system '16 All Vacuum pipes replaced 07/17 Single piece prop shaft fitted 06/17 (PowerZED) Chromed PS Reservoir & Chromed Balance Pipe fitted 2017 Double DIN with Clarion CX609E together with new speakers fitted 2015 UPDATE: Recon PAS pump and pump-steering rack replacement hose fitted May 2019 (PowerZED) Recon A/C compressor fitted May 2019 (PowerZED) Rear cranshaft seal replaced May2019 (PowerZED) £9500. Any questions, please pm me. Thank you.

Help please in locating a spare HICAS hose which links the solenoid to the rear chamber of the PAS pump. This high pressure item is fitted with banjo type hydraulic connectors and is also one of the components made redundant for HICAS deletion. Thank you. Ray

Help please to locate an available A/C Compressor for a '91 JDM TT. Thank you.. anyone...?

Please advise who is managing the 300zx attendance list for Simply Japanese . Thanks

OK. That's another SWB Slicktop to go on the list please.

Is it too late to sign up?

Help please to locate an available left hand instrument pod for a '91JDM TT. In fact, I only need the housing. I managed to break out the Hazard Warning Switch mounting screw holes, which are used to retain and position both the switch and the small retaining plate used to anchor the hook features at the top of the pod front panel. What a prat.

Help please in locating a replacement Nissan Relay 4760517V03 or equivalent as fitted to the ABS Actuator in my 91 JDM 2+0. Thank you.

Help needed please to locate an available drivers side door card in Grey Tweed for a SWB S1; Or if this is too ambitious sufficient material repair the tweed area (only) on the door card. Can anyone help please? Thank you.