fitcy

Thanks Stephen, i found the loose pipe which is capped, it's connected to where the red arrow is on the photo. The diagram below shows that that vacuum pipe is for a boost controller and boost sensor (on the passenger side of the engine). What is that vacuum pipe for (blue arrow)? Should i reconnect it to where i capped the pipe coming from the balance bar (yellow arrow)? I was wrong, when engine was warm it was idling near 2000rpm, and when i capped the vacuum leak it went down to 1500rpm and sounds much better. I don't think it sound as high as 1500rpm, below i've uploaded a video of the idle rpm sound, i assure you that the engine doesn't have that rattle which sounds in the video, i don't know how the recording picked that up, it sounds like a bloody tractor lol. The photo below shows my instrument cluster, see how my speedo sits at 10mph, would my rev counter also be giving a false reading? My boost gauge doesn't work when i rev the car, it must be that loose capped pipe from the balance bar. I'm thinking would someone have removed an aftermarket boost controller from the car before i bought it, and forgot to cap that balance bar. I bought the car from a car dealer. I purposely emptied the fuel tank to store the car, but i have read that that is a bad idea, i need to have a full fuel tank to stop condensation building up in it, i'll fill it when i get a chance. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfO8ZO_5qOE&feature=youtu.be Stephen I've took your advice about the vacuum test, I did some research and pulled the nose panel off to measure the MAF diameter (80mm), i'll make a tester in the next few days and let you know the outcome, If there is no more vacuum/boost leaks i will adjust the idle, thanks again for your help, and if you think of anything else please let me know.

I'll take a look on Thursday and let you's know :thumbup:

Have you got a Graphic Design shop near hand? Get them to make a long decal/sticker like the original one, you may need to carefully mask off the clear area (that lets the light illuminate through) and spray the back of the decal black, to make it more light proof, so that only the clear 300zx writing will illuminate. That's what i'm planning on going mate.

I was only testing you guys, i knew all that stuff lol, only messing, who needs a mechanic when i have you guys, thanks, i now know what to research and read up on. Thanks Si, hadn't a clue about the cruise control. I had doubts about the second photos being the HICAS because both cars have HICAS, didn't think about the switch-over to electronic. Funny how in 1991 the wiring loom was there for the 1995 electrical HICAS switch-over. I guess i don't have to install a NA power steering pump when i do a NA rear subframe swop, will it now be a lot easier? Thanks Stephen, i think you's may have solved a small problem with my idling. Ever since i had the car i was always meaning to adjust the idle down to just below 1000rpm, it sits around 1500rpm, now i think it has nothing to do with idle adjustment but that open vacuum port. Nice to know i'm driving a manual conversion, i was worrying about the clutch pedal being too stiff when i do a manual conversion on that blue TT, it goes to show i hadn't a clue i was driving manual conversion already lol. Thanks Terry, the cars are at a friends house, i'll investigate in the next couple of days. A few weeks ago i took photos of the engine bays to study, below are photos around the area you describe and i can't see a misplaced vacuum pipe. Do you think it's deleted, will i have to replace and reconnect it?

I was going through photos of 2 TT engine bays, and i think i'm about to ask some daft questions, but if i don't ask i'll not kind out. Below are 4 photos i picked out. The black car is a 91 TT manual and the blue one is 95 TT auto. In these first 2, what are the items circled in red? Where is that vacuum pipe going to, thats connected to the balance pipe (arrow pointing to it). The black car doesn't have these things, and i can't seem to see a vacuum pipe connected to the balance pipe, theres nothing theres, shouldn't it be at least capped? Same goes for the power steering stuff in these 2 photos, is it something to do with HICAS? And why has the blue car got those 3 connectors connected up and the black one doesn't? I'd say yous are probably rolling your eyes asking yourself, 'is this guy for real' lol

Thanks Derek, i still havent got round to starting this lol. Yeah, i've just went through a pile of photo i had taken of the car engines and i don't think i'd have the head for it, plus the 2 turbo engines have different bits and pieces, i'd probably mess things up good and proper. Mate i've went over your comment a few times and i cant seem to understand what you mean, don't forget i'm Irish lol. Do you mean, you did a manual, TT and rear subframe conversion on your car?

Thanks mate, no the NA is around the same condition, neither cars are oil paintings. Yeah, i was thinking toward a TT flywheel/clutch combo Keeping and running a drift car can turn into a real money pit if i'm not careful, so i'm not planning on putting too much cash into the HP, i'll go as far as boost controller, intercooler + oil cooler, air intake and remap, i have a SS exhaust system for it. L/W pulleys and flywheel, BB turbos, forged pistons ect. will have to wait until some relative i don't know about dies and leaves me a bucket load of cash :) Thanks Mark, sounds like a no brainer then. I was just thinking, rather than spending 90% of the time under the car doing the drive trains, i could spend 90% of the time bent over the engine doing a TT swap. When i'm finished with doing either swap, only one car needs an engine, but both cars need to have a rolling shells in order to move them about after the swap is done. To be honest, i'd rather bolt stuff together rather than do electrical work, although i can't really go wrong with the wiring because i have another manual TT to compare everything to. I'm taking your comments on board but I still don't know what to do. I'm in no rush, i don't need the drift car finished until spring time.

I have 2 Zeds that are 2+2 and are below fair condition (but not rotten), one's an 'auto TT' which is driving 100% and the other a 'manual NA' with a broken timing belt, both donor cars are to make into cheap drift car (project for my midlife crisis lol). I was planning on taking the manual conversion kit and rear sub frame from the NA and put them in the TT, because there's a file of history with the Auto TT, incase i ever want to sell it. There's no history or tax book with the NA, i bought the NA cheap for the manual kit and rear sub frame. These last couple of months i done a lot of research on the amount of work that's required to swap-over everything under both cars from the flywheels right back to the rear wheels. I'm now thinking it might be easier to do the TT conversion on the NA. Before i waste my time doing any research on a TT conversion i'd like to ask you guys what you think? Also, i don't know whether to use a TT flywheel and clutch kit or a NA stage 3 clutch kit?

Yes, it will fit. The tt flywheel is 20mm bigger in diameter than the na. The na bell housing needs a spacer between it and the starter. On a tt the clutch is vacuum assisted from the engine, because the tt pressure plate is stronger. I am going to do an auto to manual conversion on a tt, but i will be installing everything from a na donor car other than a tt flywheel and clutch kit. People say the clutch pedal needs a little more force, but i could live with that.

I've just realised that seller is a car dealer ffs. I can't see any point in asking him unless he has the wheels on the service history.

I have the same wheels that's on this car, i need a center cap but don't know the make of them to is if it's possible to get hold of one/set. I sent the seller a message asking him/her what make they are. They haven't replied back probably because i asked about the wheels and not the car. If anyone knows the car or the make of these wheels i'd greatly appreciate it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-300-ZX-Twin-Turbo-UK-Spec-Manual-/351099022474?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:GB:1123

I think the cap is original to the wheel, yeah they look very similar to those Daffy :crying: Did your wheel look the alloy in this link mate, they look very like them http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/EMaintenance/wheelrefurb.html

Ah thats a pity, i had my hope up lol, thanks anyway mate :thumbup:

Easy when you know how lol, thanks Lexx

http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fitcy/media/Alloywheel2_zpse07c89bf.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2 http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fitcy/media/Alloywheel3_zpsd0f2c0c7.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fitcy/media/Alloywheel4_zpsa7e475ee.jpg.html?sort=3&o=8 http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fitcy/media/Alloywheel5_zps6d04031c.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fitcy/media/Alloywheel6_zps42c56a1e.jpg.html?sort=3&o=7 http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fitcy/media/Alloywheel7_zpsda5f08e7.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6 http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fitcy/media/Alloywheel8_zps3ba51513.jpg.html?sort=3&o=5 http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fitcy/media/Alloywheel9_zps566590cc.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3 http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fitcy/media/Alloywheel10_zps69353128.jpg.html?sort=3&o=4

nice one lexx, if i do the same for the rest will you put them up for me mate?

Ah i'm totally lost here lol, do is use the insert image

http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fitcy/media/Alloywheel1_zpsbf30819f.jpg.html?sort=3&o=9

It wont let me insert the image, how do i delete a post? I'll try again.

After giving the car a wash and the wheels let her down badly, i really need them refurbished, and there's no point doing them until i get caps for them. I've took photos of the best wheel/cap, hope it helps.

Thank you mate. Paul i think those might fit mate, my caps have 6 hex screws but i don't think that matters. I'll take photos of mine and measure them in 'mm' on Monday. If they fit and if by a miracle you have 4 of them you can name your price mate :sweatdrop::clap: Stephen i took your options on board, you haven't given me bad advice mate :thumbup1: Thanks guys, i've come to a brick wall too. Thanks Richard, she's not looking like that at the minute, she's covered in dust and the wheels need repolished, thats why i would like the caps now, to refurbish the wheels.

Thanks Stella, i done a search of paul g and the only similar name is paul c but his wheels are different, thanks anyway :thumbup: Yeah mate, sure its no big deal Stephen, it's hard to beat the nice comments about the car but its really the caps i'm after lol I will Paul, i didn't have a camera with me today when i was getting the writing from the back of the wheel, i didn't even take the wheel of the car to read the writing, i had white napkins in our car (family car), i felt for the writing behind the spoke, put the napkin over the writing and rubbed my finger over the napkin, which gave me a perfect imprint from the brake dust lol i then turned it back to front held it up at the sun to read what it said, lazy or what? lol

Thanks Art, i listen to all opinions mate, yeah we all have different tastes. Cool motor mate. No Lex, they aren't split rims, i don't even know if i'm able to remove those screws, it would be hand when polishing the lip. I've done that much google searching for those wheel that i'm starting to see the same ones over and over. Even if i do find the right wheel, i'm not guaranteed to find center caps, i may have to buy the right diameter cap and custom fit it to the wheels.