g113emo

just a quick follow up this turned out to be a faulty air flow meter, cost £117.50 from zed world or £450+vat from nissan! but if you live in texas its $468 (£230) from nissan?

i replaced my jap spec clocks on my na with uk twin turbo, its a straight swop. you do however get a warning chime to tell you when you decelerate to 10mph! you can unplug the chime speaker that sits ontop of the dials if this annoys you.

this may sound stupid, but why not have a cheap deisol car for everyday commuting and the zed for the weekend

when the maf is connected it does do, without the maf it wont its not possible to keep the revs in one place anywhere bellow 3000rpm, above 3000 the car runs fine. this is even more apparent when the car is cold, but is also there when hot but not as survere. the lambda sensor test suggests that the car is running rich and there is a obvious increase in fuel usage

its a stock ecu. its been awhile since any rain or damp but fault is still there. I know the car is well overfueling just a case of why. I have disconnected the maf to see what difference it makes and the car ran really crap and wouldn't go above 3000rpm, so the maf is functioning, but wether it is functioning correctly i'm not sure. I have also wondered if this could be the coolent temp sensor shot and the ecu thinking the car is cold all the while?

its a blitz iduction kit, its been rather warm here for a week or so but still playing up, could it be damp is stuck in the maf? can this be resolved or do i need another, is there anyway of checking the maf with conzult as the ecu check brought up no faults?

got no fault codes from ecu check

so if my air flow meter was faulty it would cause dodgy readings on lambdas? could this be from poss damp in air filter?

recently i came back to my car after excessive rain (the rain may be coinsidental but i originally thought this to be the course). when i first fired the car up it appeared to be misfiring, was impossible to get above 2000-3000 rpm or keep the revs even, after hopping round the block a few times, the problem cleared. now if i start my car from cold it runs like crap until it is warm, but then it stammers and misses bellow 2500rpm, the idle is also flutulating from 500rpm to 1000rpm and also sometimes stalls. if i park up after a run and restart the car whilst still warm i sometimes gt a bit of missfiring and also runs poor as above. I have carried out the ecu diagnostics which returned no fault codes ie 55. i then carried out left and right lambda sensor tests, for both sides i got the same result, the check light stayed on for 20 secs or so at 2500rpm then flickered then back on for 20 secs or so. I have also noticed the car to be eccessive on fuel for a while now, but i put this down to the exhaust which has recently been repaired. the exhaust was previously blowing in 4 gaskets so i had it welded into a complete pipe from centre to back box, it also has straight through pipes from manifold to back box and no balance pipe. could the exhaust be the cause here or is this lanbda sensors, it seems strange for them to both go at the same time?

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this was my brothers car, which was hit in the side at 50-60mph, the other car which pulled out without looking into the side of my brothers car was spun round 180 degrees! My brother was lucky enough to avoid a head on colission, his gf suffered wiplash. Most of intercooler and radiator pipe work is damaged as coolant and water was all over the road, the passenger side wishbone was completly sheered off with the fron tyre and possibly buckled wheel inbedded into the front wing, the impact from the front wing had bent the sill and door, the bonnet was bent up and windscreen smashed. front headlights damaged and chassis bent. My brothers car had been off the road having a new engine and turbos for 6 months with a company called Anglian engine services who was a complete twat and didn't know what he was doing. The engine and turbos cost £3k approx, the car cost £6k from previous owner 300horses (charlie) who knowingly sold the car with a damaged piston, when my brother brought the car from him there was some oil on the garage floor, this was said to be a old leak that had been fixed which in fact was because the oil was blown straight through the piston and out the dipstick. When my brother got this car back he had to spend a further amount of money changing a dodgy replacement temp sensor and boost hose that had been damaged by anglian engine services and pay for a new mot even though anglian engine services had done one and charged for it but lost the certificate and couldn't remember what garage they did it at! So the car cost getting on for £10k was insured for £6k and the insurance company offered £3.5k then upped the offer to £4.25k but took away the hire car forcing my brother to spend £300 on a banger until it was settled, they then charged 3 months at £100 to insure a ford siera worth £300. THE INSURANCE COMPANY SAID THAT THEY HAD "CRUSHED" THIS CAR!!!! Now someone as brought it for a few quid and stands to make quite a bit of money brealking it or put it back on the road and sell a death rap to some unsupecting mug. my point is that people think that if someone (300horses) pays £20 to join a forum that they won't rip people off. Insurance companys are a rip off, and some people will put people in danger just to make a few quid cause couple of panels and bit of paint later this car will be in autotrader and people will be none the wiser.

people have made comments about my "lamborgini" on several occassions!

i.ve been having the same prob, mines a jap non turbo, I put some uk clocks (full unit) in replacing both speedo and converter. The speedo works perfect now and the trip mileage reads correct, HOWEVER the power steering still behaves the same, any ideas! ??? IM GETTING FED UP WITH THE FECKIN THING NOW!

wound needle back on speedo by hand, speedo now works perfect all the time and so does trip meter, have recently done a 110 mile trip at the same time as someone else doing the same trip in another car, both trip meters both read 110 miles. So my speed signal must be working, but power steering was not working 40% of the trip. I assume that I had two probs, speedo which was cured by changing the clocks and now pas which was masked by the speedo prob. So if I am getting a constant speed signal but pas will suddenly go hard for awhile or judder about which does seem to happen when changing speeds even though I have a constant speed signal, could this be the pas ecu? another thing which makes me think this is possible is the heater matrix went when I had only had the car 2 months or so, the pas seemed to play up just before this, could the pas ecu be water damaged?