antman

Thanks, I am sure its not the CAS but something whilst cranking affecting the CAS. A volt drop perhaps during crank starts. I will try a hill start and see if it starts. That would tell me something.

Hi guys, I got a CAS related issue when cranking with fully charged battery...no spark at all. I removed the CAS and turned the CAS shaft by hand and spark and injectors work. Fuel pressure also primes. Checked loom for breaks/intermittent faults and also checked all earths are ok...fitted new CAS loom connector and tried 2 other known working CAS units..same issue. I also checked cam turns when cranking...took the plastic cover off the CAS to see it turns while cranking. Why does CAS not work when on the motor??? What am I doing wrong?

I agree....I replaced my manual box as it was slightly notchy in 1st to 2nd and thought I would treat the new second hand box to some Redline MT-90 oil as this oil is rated highly world wide. Well I was quite peeved as the my new second hand box was also notchy for the first couple of days but after driving a few hundred kms it is almost perfect now...smooth changes hot or cold. Good stuff this Redline oil but expensive here in South Africa but worth the out lay.

Hi, that box and braided cable is for the EGT function...Exhaust Gas Temperature.

Hi, I had to check my pics and I fitted mine the same as was stated on the leaflet that came with the ES bushes..so yes its correct.

When I rebuilt my motor I removed the rack while the motor was out and bought a rebuild kit online and replaced all the seals. It was not hard at all allthough I am not sure how hard it is taking the rack out with the motor in situ.

My buddy had the same issue with a missing woodruff key here in South Africa and the local nissan agent did not stock one for a 300zx but said the 350z woodruff key was the same...so he bought it and fitted perfectly..... was cheap as well.

Hi, here is my experience. I fitted Energy Suspension bushes to the complete rear and front end on my TT and I found it really tight and firm although there was a lot of road noise being transmitted into the car from the rear and to honest I thought I had ruined the drive from a cabin noise perspective. The handling was really transformed but the noise was ruining the drive for me. I later upgraded to a NA sub frame and diff and transferred all my Energy suspension bushes over to the new rear end. I did not replace the 4 OEM sub frame bushes as they looked very new and also a bugger to remove. Any way having retained the 4 OEM sub frame bushes I was happy as it made a world of difference to the noise factor and still had handling like it was on rails.

"Car is a total one of a kind and turns heads everywhere it goes = WTF POS is that?

The oil pressure sender unit is on the left hand side (passenger side of rhd cars) in front of the turbo region, difficult to explain but if you get under the lhs you will see it. Good luck..I am sure it is buggered.

Hi guys, thought I would share my experience with a smoking exhaust that started and slowly got worse. Similar amount of smoke when you start up a wood fire to grill some steaks, a lot of smoke. This was a rebuilt forged motor with about 1500kms which I had built and I was mentally preparing myself to remove the motor. I started to experience slight smoke after about 20 seconds on first start ups. This after a run would clear up and have no issues through out the day but next morning would smoke again and clear after a run. This eventually got worse over a few weeks which even resulted in oil droplets coming out the passenger tail pipe, the exhaust does not have an X or H pipe so it was a left bank issue. Isolated the problem to number 6 cylinder as on removing the spark plug I noticed oil on the piston top and the plug was sooty and oily. First thoughts were damaged wiseco piston or valve guide/seals and depression set in bad. Inspection also revealed slight evidence of oil in left and right plenum floor which led me to believe it could be bad PCV valves. The remedy was to remove the PCV valves and spray carb cleaner into the plenum via the throttle bodies and allow the residue to drain out the PCV holes. I checked the PCV valves and they were working correctly (able to suck on threaded end but not blow). I decided to do a PCV delete and grabbed a set of used PCV valves and welded up the holes to block them up which I then refitted to the plenum and reconnected the hoses. I then removed the front PCV hoses on the inlet covers and removed the brass restrictors within them to increase the flow as I had deleted the rear ventilation flow and refitted them back into their original postions. I started the car and it smoked a bit but was much less than before and then went for a long run to clear any oil in the pipes. Next morning I started the car and there was no smoke at all which was a tremendous relief. The car does not smoke anymore and I would not have believed that this was the cause of the smoking issue. So just check your PCV before you go any further.

Hi Stephen, yes you are correct. If you going to upgrade to ball bearing turbos you are going to have to drill out the restrictors in both those areas to allow full oil flow to the upgraded turbos.

Hi, I did this conversion last year and was one of the best mods I have done to the car. I swopped out the complete NA sub frame, diff, side shafts and hubs onto my TT. Remember you need to swop out the prop shaft as well as the diff flange on the NA is a 4 hole and the TT diff is a 6 hole. I used a NA prop shaft and had it reconditioned while it was out, including the centre bearing. You will also need to remove the HICAS unit and its piping to neaten things up as well as doing the power steering fluid pot bypass mod or use a NA power steering fluid pot. While the sub frame is on the floor its a good time to check the bushes and replace with oem or poly bushes. I retained the 4 oem sub frame bushes and the rest went poly. The previous setup on the TT diff and sub frame before going to NA diff I used poly bushes for the 4 subframe bushes and there was a lot of road noise transmitted into the cabin...I did not like it.

Hi, I did this conversion last year and was one of the best mods I have done to the car. I swopped out the complete NA sub frame, diff, side shafts and hubs onto my TT. Remember you need to swop out the prop shaft as well as the diff flange on the NA is a 4 hole and the TT diff is a 6 hole. I used a NA prop shaft and had it reconditioned while it was out, including the centre bearing. You will also need to remove the HICAS unit and its piping to neaten things up as well as doing the power steering fluid pot bypass mod or use a NA power steering fluid pot. While the sub frame is on the floor its a good time to check the bushes and replace with oem or poly bushes. I retained the 4 oem sub frame bushes and the rest went poly. The previous setup on the TT diff and sub frame before going to NA diff I used poly bushes for the 4 subframe bushes and there was a lot of road noise transmitted into the cabin...I did not like it.

Hi, be very cautious with the type of electric fan you use, they normally do not work and I have not heard of many successful conversions. Here is my story I posted for another forum member asking the same. Thought I might share my experience on this topic. Electric cooling fan on a 300zx sounds like a brilliant idea, why not as most high performance turbo cars have them. The thing is there are countless guys who have tried and failed. I decided to give it a try and fitted a large generic cheap 16" electric fan onto a fibre glass radiator shroud I made which was fitted to my large aluminium aftermarket radiator. What a disaster as the car temp ( digital temp gauge) rose very fast to hot within the first 10 mins with the fan running almost continuously from cold in a typical South African day with average temps of 25-28 degrees C. I binned that and realised that I needed a fan with higher specs and importing the Taurus Fan as Funkysi stated was too much. I decided to use a fan from a Volvo S60 and used a large relay that was rated at 80Amps dc over the contacts and fitted into a custom fibre glass shroud covering the entire radiator. It is controlled with a cheap radiator fan controller unit I got off ebay which you can set the fan to come on from any temp you select and when that set temp is reached and the fan switches on the display flashes. The nice thing about this unit is you can see what the water temp is, when the fan is running as the temp value displayed flashes and also see the temp drop as its cooling and when the flashing stops you know the fan is off. This set up works very well in traffic on a hot South African day and the temp drop variation from when fan starts to when fan switches off is 5 degrees C and this drop is over a 30 to 40 second period. This has been tested at a few different settings for fan to switch on at 75, 80, 85 and 90 degree C and have settled on switching on at 85. The temps at cruising speeds of 120 km/h is that the fan switches on and off as in traffic conditions which is not good as the fan should not operate at all. This is due to the fact that the fan aperture at cruising speeds is a restrictor for the incoming air and I have to now fit ports with one-way flaps into the shroud to allow more air in to pass through the radiator. Once I have done that I will report back with the results. The benefits so far is no drag from an engaged viscous fan, no whooshing fan noise and less stress on the water pump.