lesrantz

My 300ZX (1992 Auto UK spec) has been sitting on the driveway for the last year since I quit my job as I don't need it any more. I was going to fix the few minor problems & use it but never got round to it. It's a shame to let it sit there, any idea of value & best way to sell it? Maybe sell on this site or ebay or just put it in the local rag? Might make a good project car or used as a donor car. *edit*

I'm at the same stage as you. Mine was dripping from the crankshast out of the timing cover so assume it's water pump leaking. From the manual the next step is to get the 3 belts off & the crank pulley, then you can remove the bottom part of the timing belt cover & you have access to the water pump bolts. Make sure you drain the coolant down or else it will likely go everwhere when you remove the pump. I'm stuck on slackening the power steering pump to get the belt off. Loosened the main bolt that holds it on (accessed via cutout in the pulley), slackened the tensioner right off but it's still rock solid. Any advice appreciated! Good luck. Les

Thanks for the advice. Would appear to be an airlock. I have run the engine with rad cap off & kept topping it up, took a fair bit (as it spat a lot out when it started getting hot). Seems ok now so fingers crossed.

I assume my water pump is kaput but before dismantling thought I'd ask for any advice. Temperature started going up & with heater set at a high temperature no hot air was coming out (fan blowing set on hi). Heater would then cut in & temp. gauge drop back to mid position. Now heater won't work at all & gauge heads north after about 3 miles. Any advice very welcome.

Found out the front drive shaft bearing was mangled, new pump....?

Reversed the car out of the garage this morning, HICAS light lit up & found large puddle of PAS fluid on the floor. Having jacked the car up to see where it was leaking from it appears to be coming from the back of the pulley/drive shaft so I'm assuming it's the drive shaft O-ring. Found Doobs too's removal guide under FAQ's so will make a start this afternoon. Anyone have any other advice on doing this? Any other seals I should be replacing while I've got the pump off? Where should I look to get new parts from? Many thanks in advance. Les

Pleased to say my local transmission specialist JR Transmissions in North Camp (near Farnborough, Hants) sorted it out by tapping the sheared bolt shafts out of the housing & refitting a new servo/piston assembly, as I'd hoped without removing the gearbox. All in cost including oil/gaskets/piston/VAT & labour of £206. Large sigh of relief from yours truely. 113K on the box & still going (strong??), time will tell.....

I have gone through the full electrics test, testing every pin on the auto control unit & all signals are correct. So me thinks must be mechanical. The oil on the dipstick is at the right level but is a very light brown colour. I have had the car 8+ years & it has always been this colour. It is still a very runny consistancy. I assume the auto box oil has never been changed in any of the Nissan dealers main services it has had..... Today I drained the oil which looked very black & dropped the sump cover. A little bit of sludge build up on the magnet but very minor. The strainer gauze is undamaged & appears clean. The slightly concerning find was the 3 sheared bolt heads!!! These have come from what I believe to be the band servo piston housing which has dropped down & is held in place by the sole surviving bolt. It is a round casing about 3 inches diameter in the front drivers side corner, looking up from underneath. Should I be brave & release the remaining bolt, or just call the garage for a tow in. The car will still run in 1st gear so I'm reluctant to delve further incase I leave all drive. Any ideas what may have caused this to fail like this or what the problem is? I assume it's a rebuild/replacement job.

My '92 UK Auto is stuck in first gear. Occurred about a mile into my journey when I put my foot down to overtake. Engages neutral OK & reverse but won't change up. Tried electronic diagnostics mentioned in another thread but no faults were found. Clutch burnt out? It's original box with 120K on the clock, time for a manual conversion? Any advice welcome!

There are 2 screws on the under side of the dials cover. remove these & you can take the cover off. Each side pod (a/c controls on left, light cruise cont etc on the right) has 2 screws at the bottom, remove these & they will pull out. 2 more screws on each side hold the sides pod in so remove these & you can remove the main facia panel. I think it was clipped in along the bottom above the sterring column so prize it off gently. At the top of the dials enclosure there are 2 screws, remove these. I also removed the cover from the steering column around the ignition switch. I think that was about it. I ran the new wires throught the bonnet release cable hole in the drivers side footwell. Good luck!

Thanks to alexporsche for pointing me towards Jeff at Zedworld, & thanks to Jeff for the advice! It appears to be due to a bad connection/cable between the speed sensor & speedo unit. Rather than try & find it I took Jeff's advice & ran new wires from the sensor to the speedo. I tried it with keeping the old wires still in place, i.e. in parallel but it still did not work. So I ended up disconnecting the old wires completely both ends & just using the new wires, & appears to work fine. I had the turbos replaced a few months back so something probably got disturbed then...

I have a problem with the speedo in my '92 UK spec 300ZX auto, it suddenly dropped to zero shortly into my journey, flicked back up to show the correct speed a couple of times before dropping down to zero & staying there permanent. Without the speedo the power steering cuts out after a short time & the HICAS lamp comes on. I have replaced the speed sensor on the auto gear box to no avail & tried a new speedo unit to no avial. Last weekend I jacked the rear of the car up & measured the ac voltage out of the sensor whilst in gear, ranged from about 1v rms to 3v rms depending on speed. Checked I was getting the same out of the 2 pins on the connector that goes in the back of the speedo unit. This was with the speedo disconnected. Once plugged in this drops to a few tens of mV at idle to approx 200mV rms at speed. I measured across the rev counter & got a similar range so the speedo meter is loading the sensor OK I would assume? I have been through the wiring diagram & the speed sensor appears to feed straight to the speedo, where one side of the sensor is grounded. The same connector sends speed information to the differential oil temp sensor & ECU, could it be a problem with one of these dragging something down on the speedo circuit? Anyone have a circuit diagram of the speedo?

I've been running a '92 Z32 auto with no turbo boost for a couple of years, car runs fine but slow! Boost gauge moves from -14 up to zero but not into positive zone. Is there an easy way of diagnosing fault, I've been into Nissan dealership & they say replace turbo's. Could it not be an electical/hose/valve problem? Can hear the turbos spinning on acceleration. Had the car 6 years, it's a bit tired so don't want to spend a fortune. Also have no workshop manual, anybody know where you can get one other than Nissan? Finally drivers side headlight appears to be pointing at a very low angle, don't tend to drive at night so only noticed recently. Inner lense appears well offset from hole in the casing, looks like whole thing has shifted. Cheers, Les