biguno

Just need some advice,the hicas unit on the near side wing (right hand drive tt jap import) one pipe goes to the resevior and the other goes to the pump i pressume?This is the pipe i need,do nissan or common stockist stockist hold it or does some one have one while i source one.Any part numbers if people know of any would be great....thanks in advance

i have had the same problem on an auto,went to turn a corner from stationary and it cut out wouldn't start again for love nor money.I have changed the ptu to a series 2 as i to thought it could be the series 1 ptu breaking down but no difference.After playing with all the usual suspects it starts but can't put my finger on what caused it,but it is running very rich (think i have an air lock in the water so its upsetting the ETC).In the past i have noticed when my power steering fluid drops as i have a very small leak somewhere the car runs lumpy and overfuels,i'm sure i read somewhere there is a link

After reading all the posts on here i think i have a very similar problem (i'm hoping it a duff CAS got one coming soon).My car is a non starter,it stalled and won't start checked earths and electrics,i have a spark (series 2 PTU) new temp sensor and MAF.The knowledge and help on here is invaluable and as i have found upgrading from a little mark 1 uno turbo to a ZX its alittle scary looking under the bonnet but don't be afraid:biggrin:

A couple of weeks ago my car just stopped and still won't start, since thenI have changed the ptu to a series 2, I have power to all the coil packs and checked their resistance, there is fuel getting to the plugs that not a problem. I took out the CAS spun it by hand and checked all the injectors are firing but still no joy. The spark being emitted seems bright but someone said it should be more blue than a white spark plus my air filter may have got wet but surely this would give some result when cranking the engine rather than absolutely nothing? Anything I might of missed? No error codes on the ecu test either

cool definitely keep you in mind ill check out my days off ,gonna get it recovered and brought home first have a play with it but 2 heads are definitely better than one!

i had a gut feeling,the injector went in to well (was dreading getting the old one out) i don't like it when a job goes smoothly i always think something will go wrong.I will grab some new o rings and whip it out anyway just to rule it out.It took under an hour to change the old one

mmm i did change a injector hence the reason for the question as it had died 2 weeks ago,there is a strong smell of petrol wheni try to start it.I have been round lot of the connectors and when it stops raining i wll check for a spark again.Unfortunately reading the history of this car it is gremlin that keeps appearing and last year had a similar problem but with all the fiddling under the bonnet i fixed it but don't know how as i checked and cleaned so much....never owned a car that has tried my patience so much but i still plod on :)

Just a quick question to put my mind a rest, what are the symptoms of a failed ' o ' ring on an injector? Mine still won.u start, changed to a series 2 ptu dried maf that was possibly damp. The car tries to start at first then nothing managed to get a cough and a splutter last night

The resister pack question because a previous invoice quoted they did I temporary repair on the resistor pack and I can only think it was the ptu without taking it apart to find out As for towing I won't bother but it is only 5 minutes walk away but a pain when I was lugging tools back and forth when it's easier to work on just outside plus nipping indoors to use the forum pages for tech data is so much easier but thanks for all the input guys :-D

Many thanks would explain a lot of problems that seem to go back the last owner who had break downs and miss fire issues but never up graded just had a temporary repair hopefully the new ptu solves all the issues. I'll open the old one to see what kind of bodge was done inside. Second question can you tow an auto ?I uerstand Iit 6onnot rerecommended but possible at low low speeds

Now my car is not starting at all i went through all the old service history and found the same problem occurring,a temporary repair was done on the fuse board of the resistor pack some years ago and fixed the non starting problem. i am wondering if the resistor pack is the PTU?I have just bought a series 2 PTU and harness and waiting for it to arrive (if it isn't this it is something i have been meaning to get)Any ideas would be great 1990 Auto tt import

changed one injector (front drivers side) fixed the miss fire i had but has been running alittle rich still

i will try the auto box idea,yes it was the drivers side plugs seemed to be wet but i don't think there is a spark need to go back tomorrow and look (thankfully its only a short walk away don't really want to tow an auto).The Maf should be ok the vented nose panel was block as i had a similar problem afew years ago changed the maf and filter which fixed it but will have that off tomorrow and check/clean/dry them out

it is a auto,pushed it to the side of the road the took the plugs out and they are soaking wet so its getting fuel

Started the car this morning seems to be running a bit lumpy in the cold mornings at the moment but when it reaches temperature vastly improves,this morning not more than half a mile it stalled and won't start.I was at a junction turned the wheel and just the load from the power streering made it stall. The only recent work carried out was 2 weeks ago changed one injector as it had failed (the dremel method was used) so nothing major was disturbed but it was running rich before and appears to still be running a little rich Will be checking the temperature sensor when i get it home first but any other ideas would be great,thanks