fraser_gtti

sounds like its coil pack related if playing with it made a difference. try measuring the resistances but it could be breaking down under temperature and be difficult to trace the duff one. strange how it struggles so much to reach over 1.4k. Even running on 4 or 5 cylinders it would reach that easy enough. does it sound like its running on less than 6 cylinders or is it smooth but not revving? sounds like you need a conzult on it to see exactly what is coming in and going out.

glad to hear its sorted, what exactly was wrong with the front tyres? wrong size or just really worn?

ye im pretty sure thats what i said too.

as above, either repair your own engine or swap it with a known good one, rebuild your old one and sell it on. simples

here is my thread if its any use. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?172625-ABS-ECU-module-where the level switch goes to the (P) lamp, not the (!).

this is a misconception, the low level switch is connected to the lamp on the dash (!) it is not even wired to the ABS control module. i recently had ABS lamp issues and did a LOT of fault finding. a few things off the top of my head bring the lamp on: alternator voltage below 6v any wheel sensor U/S pump failure actuator failure relay O/C the first thing to do is finish bleeding your brakes until you have a good pedal again. then take the car for a drive its something like over 20mph for 1min to let the ABS do a self test and check the signal back from each wheel. if the light doesnt go out, remove the panel from beside the drivers side rear seat and you will find the ABS control module. there is a small 5mm clear window on it. take the car for another drive as above and if the ABS light doesnt go off, pull over (dont turn off the engine) and look into the window on the module and you should see a red flashing LED. make sure your head is looking through it squarely and be patient, there is a big gap between codes and its easy to miss a flash. these codes will tell you what the ABS isnt happy about R/F, L/F, R/R, R/F sensor, pump, actuator, voltage etc.... there is a full and very comprehensive test procedure in the manual which describes what pins to measure at the control module plug. my control module LED didnt flash and it turned out to be the module its self. see how you get on. cheers,

the inlet air elbows before it goes into the aiv, so when its working it has to suck the air through the pool of water at the bottom. its probably easier to bin them altogether as you say you have no cat's anyway. at least disconnecting the vacuum line from the AIV sov on the bulkhead would disable them and stop the noise. see link for more in depth info. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/faq/FAQpages/aivrepair.html

You drill it on the inlet side, not the vacuum side.

drill a 2mm hole in the bottom to let it out. it'l be the AIVs

are you sure you replaced the balljoints on the hubs (the ones that are pressed in) the MOT tester seems to be refering to these or ther inner joints on the track arms (innermost to the rack). neither of these parts can be polly-bushed.

what is dented? if its the flange and the faces arent mating 100% square you will get vibration.

im pretty sure it should draw back in as it cools, but the expansion tank is so low that the head of liquid is too large for it to syphon back. i'l try pressure testing the system again and see if theres a small weep somewhere. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm

cheers mark, do you mean 1-2 inches? as the engine cools, it 'should' draw back from the expansion tank through the cap (under the disc on the sealing washer) to the radiator again but if the level im getting is 'normal' then im not too bothered. i did wonder if the lugs being worn on the radiator neck were stopping the top seal on the cap from seating properly.

every time i bleed and top up the radiator and cjeafter a run the level always drops down by the same amount (about a cupful). I have no apparent leaks and i cant help think the cap isnt letting the excess water be drawn back into the rad as the system cools even though i have replaced the cap and checked the expansion tank hose and level Im pretty sure the rad should always be full. anyone else got a similar issue? or is it normal? cheers,

your decats are probably touching somewhere.