COOKIE

Have just renewed through paypal Confirmation Number: 4MM80569MR791500C Cheers Andrew Cook

I was hoping to just replace the pipes, the hicas arms and rack are all fine.

Hello, I am in need of some knowledge on the size of, and type of pipework used in the hicas lines that run from the front (under passenger footwell) to the rear hicas saftey valve block. It looks to be of a steel type below the rust and leaking fluid on mine, but someone out there will hopefully know for sure. Cookie

Hi there, just to let you know i have renewed my membership via paypal. Cheers Andrew Cook

thanks romchip that will help greatly in what i need to look for

Thanks for all the info, i will now head out and get the bits and probably be under the car for days. Cheers Cookie

Car failed mot on brake pipes (rear) today, i am going to have a go at fitting new pipework myself. Could anyone help with the size of the pipework and fittings?, as i have searched the manual and search facility on this site and cant find a size stated any were. Would rather start the job with the right pieces instead of cutting and going to find bits later. Cheers Cookie

internal for me please

Have just subscribed using paypal, can i please have internal stickers when available.

This may be of some help those who have a hesitation at around 2k rpm or when backed off or very light on the throttle. I have had this problem for a few months now and have finally found the cause after much changing of parts ie ptu, tps , lamba probes, water temp, injector connectors and spark plugs all of which made no differance to the hesitation. What i have found is that the dam hard to get at EGR valve is to blame ( my only problem now is how to completly disable the dam thing while the engine is still in the car) I have temporaly removed the vac line to it and blocked the soliniod outlet, then taken a syringe and pressurised the valve to complety close it then trapping in the pressure. Having done this the hesitation is complety gone only wish i tried it first before buying new parts. Only one problem if the pressure leaks my hesition is back, i have tried to get at the flanges near the throttle bodies but cant undo the bolts while the engine is in the car, i am thinking of drilling the pipes and filling with metal glue any idea any one ?

Yami, If you do a search for (one piece propshaft) you will find a thread for this under my name, when i fitted this to my car it created a did of debate on the forum with the pros and cons of doing this. I still have my car and to date i have had no vibration since changing the shaft and contary to some peoples thoughts it has not broken apart at speed ( well as fast as i date go anyway) hope this may help. I have some pictures if i can suss how to get them on here. Cheers

Been working on a hesitation problem with my car and been changing the plugs on no.6 i look down the hole and see oil around the plug. Which gasket has failed for this to happen and any ideas for a repair? cheers

Have already cleaned all the connectors ptu ( the left hand side was slightly corroded ) and the coil pack connectors were all okay. Do not have time tonight to check the theory of the bend in the wiring loom but will have a go at this by trying to move the ptu postion slightly if this is possible. Cheers

Have now fitted the resistor and taken the car for a drive, plenty of power but still getting slight judder about 2000rpm when using very little trottle. On rechecking the ecu after driving code 55 which was expected. (The Knock sensor checked out at 0.568M ohm ) Next port of call may be new spark plugs and / or ptu but still have problem Knock sensor to deal with.

I have decided to go with trying the resistor and fitting it tonight.This will a least rule the knock sensor out if the problem.

Having problems with my car. When driving after engine warmed up and very little throttle and only at :confused: approx 2000rpm get what i think is a bad misfire which causes the car to judder. When checking ecu get a code 34 (Det sensor) only. I have then reset the ecu and left car to idle recheck the ecu and get code 55. Take the car for a drive and as soon as the car misfires recheck the ecu and code 34. Is it possible for the det sensor to cause this type of misfire (judder) when failing or is it more like ptu failing (series 1 ptu) . I have been through all the connectors and have replaced the injector harness ( which made the engine run smoother ) but are a bit stumped with this. Any advice greatly recieved

You have a very good point never thought about left and right but i am sure they had different inside profiles. I may be wrong ,i get the wheels back friday so will check again . cheers

This can possibly answered very easily but not by me. I have removed the tyres from my alloys to get them cleaned up but cant remenber which are front and rear, they are off an import turbo and are the same width but just slighty different on the inside profile , if i remember correctly they two had 40PE00 on the side and 40PE05 on the others please help cheers