grimmer

Yeah!

yeah i have a electric desolding tool, i tested all wiring again today, powered the wires up from a battery to the window amp connector (amp disconnected) and the window rolls up and down fine, i think this removes wiring faults in the door, im still thinking maybe the switch could be dodgy!, but if i power the wires from the switch connector up with 12v the amp clicks, but the 2 pin plug that connects to the window motor the voltage only goes to about 0.9v when voltage is applied....so im guessing the amp isnt switching the 12v to the motor. ive ordered another amp!, im gonna plug it in, but disconnect the drivers window motor and test the wires again!. im thinking the amp maybe just a twin relay system, im not bothered about the passengers window working, maybe i could wire in a standard 30amp 4 or 5 pin relay instead of the amp may work and be cheaper!.

ive soldered all the ones i have up, ive got three amps in total, all came from working cars, they work for a day then stop!, a wiring fault is most likely now im thinking or maybe the switch panel?

yeah i had a go at that today on the drivers side, will have another look tomorrow thanks

Hello, im having problems with my zeds windows they just both packed in a few weeks ago, i installed a new amp in the drivers side, no difference. so ive installed new drivers side motor and regualator, and got another window amp, installed it all and hey presto they both worked, next morning get into the car and the windows dont work again! the amp makes a fast clicking sound when switches are pressed. the only part i havent changed is the passengars motor and reg, all wiring looks good into the car, if i power the motors up on a battery they work fine. could the drivers side switches cause this fault?, its the only thing left!! any help will be great!.

already cut off lol

thanks!

hi gotta change the belt on my n/a soon as stripped a rib, is it just a case of undoing the 13mm or 12mm tensioner nut below the alternator and slip the belt off, or does the fan have to come off? some cars the belt is long enough to slip over the blades one by one, is this the case on the 300? thanks

yep this week, 44 miles from 20 quid to petrol light coming on, had a m3 before so thought was about right. the car is just purely town driving to work and back though. but ive put the std airbox back on this week to see if makes a difference.

well my n/a with no known faults does 44 miles to 20 quid gentle driving, mines chipped and decats. id say your fuel economy was about right, it is a 3 litre car in a high priced petrol world

its the cost of fuel thats gone up loads in the last 3 weeks i reckon!, or check ect sensor

what was your fault?

had this problem on mine, pressure kept dropping and allowing water out of the outlet when shouldnt, it was the accumulator (spelling!), £312 quid later, it looked like a large heater matrix with twin inlets into it.

thanks for your help, mine indeed have the problem above, i just soldering it up, and all other dodgy looking ones but same fault, the little gate things making a high pitch sound and move up and down fast but no moventment in window. also the amp do smell of electrical burning, so i need i new one, anybody on here have one for sale, posted via paypal please cheers

ok, does this control both windows, is it repairable?