Zilver

18psi :ohmy: Hope you've got the appropriate mods mate to run this level of boost. If not, probably safer to run at 14psi. Not sure what manual you've got but I used this one which is farly easy to follow: http://www.sr20tuning.com/Blitz_SBC_i-D_manual.pdf By scatter, assume you mean scramble mode. Might also be worth changing your controller settings to psi to match your gauge. Do a search on here and you'll find lots of posts on setup.

I think your suspicion concerning the SWB is correct: http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=3108 http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=68products_id%3D609osCsid%3D38fd8c8cd61bbf05fc2d3ce6d6a42e78&products_id=3109&osCsid=7cb5aee88e5217a2f81ca7651bb49784 Looks like the correct parts are as indicated by Andy.

I think the whites are the Illumina range which are adjustable. There should be a 5 way adjustable dial on top.

Looking for some guidance from anyone who has these fitted. What have you done with the stock ducts and undertray as these are too small for the Pace's? I have a 99 spec bumper and am trying to figure out how to maximise the air flow to the I/C's. Obviously the ducts are beneficial in directing the incoming air but are they entirely necessary or will the inlets on my bumper be sufficient? If possible, want to try and avoid fabricating new ducts. Cheers

Bump..... :wink: Would love to particularly hear from anyone who's got Tokico's.

Right, my current suspension consists of Koni Sports all around, Stillen sway bars, poly bushes and OEM springs. Handling is great but ride is stiff around town even on the Koni's softest setting + they're a PITA to adjust. I want to replace the Koni's and am considering Tokico HP's, KYB Gr2's or even replacing with a set of new OEM's. Not really fussed with adjustability. The sway bars control roll very well, so need the shocks to provide a firm (equal to OEM or +10/15%) but comfortable damping. Any feedback, opinions, recommendations greatly appreciated. Cheerz

This may be of interest. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=26316&highlight=shahid Good luck, hope you get it sorted.

Would a Jap TT owner be kind enough to look at their relay/fuse box in the engine bay (passenger side) and tell me the spec/part number of the "sub fan" relay. Called Nissan and was advised they can't help me without the part number as their screen data is in Japanese! http://www.cazracing.com.au/catalog/images/P7270038_edited.JPG Alternatively, if anyone has removed their aircon system and wants to sell their relay, I'd be intersted. Thanks

Thanks for all the replies, guys. Have been doing more research on No.6 and there are definately known issues for this cylinder (heat + leaness = detonation!!). I don't think it's the piston as I'm not gettling any grey/blue smoke from the exhaust. So could well be the ring or valve but a wet test should help to narrowing the possible issue. Anyway, sounds like the engine may have to be dismantled at some point in the future. In the meantime, it seems to be running fine so I'm just going to enjoy it over summer. Paul - I'm down in South Norwood, near Crystal Palace. Don't really know any other Zed owners around here other than Steve (Cybernet) in Croydon. Our cars seem to be a rare sight in this neck of the woods. Must try and meet up some time to say hello. Cheers guys.

Thanks, Paul. Nice to hear from a fellow SE Londoner. Planning on doing the wet test in a few days. Assume a teaspoon of oil is sufficient? How did you resolve your similar problem? Cheers

For those running with the NGK PFR6B-11B, I found the following article of interest. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/922678/The-6-Ps-Proper-Preparation-Prevents-Piss-Poor-Performancegt.html

Morning All A recent conzult power balance test highlighted an issue with No. 6. Despite this, car was running fine. Anyway, decided to change plugs yesterday for the cooler NGK PFR6B-11B's. No 6 plug had some oil on the end and evidence of a burn mark. Other plugs and all coilpacks were fine. Did a dry compression test and cylinders 1-5 showed 165psi but no.6 stopped at 90psi :sad: Re-tested and same readings. As I said, the car seems to run fine - no hesitation, misfire etc but clearly there's a problem as there should only be a 14psi maximum difference between the cylinders. A little research suggests that as there is low compression on a single cylinder, it may be a broken ring, burned valves, or a burned piston. 1. If it was any of these items, would the car still run without any notable issues? If not, what symptoms should I be encountering? 2. If left unattended, what potential issues can I expect? 3. Other than a wet compression test, is there anything elseI can do to diagnose the problem? Thanks, any thoughts or comments would be really appreciated.

Thanks, mate. Will leave as is and give it a go.

Had the same problem. A little fiddle with the PTU connectors quickly resolved the issue.

Hi All Does anyone know the recommended gap for the colder NGK PFR6B-11B plugs? Stock gap appears to be .044 but for higher boost (15-18psi), some recommend .035. Any thoughts on the correct gapping for say 14psi? Cheers