Sky89

Hi all, I just had the honour of being overtaken and to follow a beautifully sounding red Z from stevenage junction on a1m and up gunnleswood Road. Unfortunately I was borrowing a little 1.6 astra at the time so couldn't really keep up or give any obvious indication that I was a Z owner. Frustrating because if my Z hadn't been blocked in I would have been in the same spot, same time, different car. So if it was you, and your local, would love to meet up and have a chat one day! Cheers Alex

Guess what turned up today :D From first look I'm actually very impressed, high detail moulding, comes with facelift and prefacelift front bumpers, comes with light buckets for an Led kit and detailed stickers if you so wish to use them :D Now just got to find me some metallic grey paint match my Z and some replica rota gtr's in bronze! I will have a scale version of you soon my pretty! Anyone seen a close match polycarbonate paint to the nissan metallic grey? Or GTR reps? Cheers, Alex

Just so your search for them is easier, it is manufactured by Exceed

I have just had word than mine is in the country :D will be picking it up today! Ordered it about 2 weeks ago from raceanddriftjapan, they somehow managed to get stock for a few days It worked out.. expensive... £65 for shell and delivery from japan, just found out I now have a £27 customs charge too...... Not impressed with that to say the least, £92 for an rc shell I will probably never run on track as its so rare and i'd be devestated if I smashed it up! Oh and i've probably got £30 of paint and a set of wheels to buy yet... So do we have any competetive rc drifters among us? I helped found a local group and we set up an outdoor track every tuesday evening in stevenage. we have a facebook group called skidworks rc. And we all go to Soul RC in northampton and wrcc in wycombe on a regular basis for competative and predictable carpet drifting. Most of us run mst chassis What about you guys? It'd be nice to meet up for a scaled drift session XD Cheers

Totally agree with this thread, in my first zed a couple of years back i thought it was the leather 2 years on and i recognised it immidiately, and it has the fabric interior..? So thats out of the question. No idea where it comes from, but i would never wish it away! Alex

Hi chaps, Thanks very much for the pics, links and explanations they have opened my eyes to the situation, there is indeed no easy way other than unit removal, sigh.. I have this Sunday free for a little while so will make a start then! I've got a couple of bits of stiff wire laying around, so I'll have a crack at making my own for now And also I've seen the "no blink" mod, and already decided on the cheap, easy, dodgy "no blink" mod, grounding pin 5 of the light selection relay. I never really use my high beams anyway, plus I really have too many other things to be doing on top of car fiddling... So quicker and easier is priority really! Cheers chaps Alex

Hey all, Here's another headlight annoyance post, but mainly because my question is unanswered using search function.. So in both my projectors I can only assume that previous owner has had trouble with getting the h3c bulbs as I found what looks like a h4 twin element bulb but completely massacred and wedged in to fit h3c fitment... Both filament positives had been soldered together and then a ground soldered to the base?? Needless to say, it doesn't work.. I have since bought myself a set of 55w 6k h3 HID's, only to now realise once I'm standing in front of it trying to work out how the HID's fit, that I have no bloody spring clips... I'm sure I can just rob a pair off of another h3 car, or fashion my own from something.. But In the 2 hours I had to fit them today I didn't have time to work out how new ones would fit into the housing.. So the resultant question... Do I have to remove the whole assembly to fit a new set of spring clips?? Anybody got photos of how the spring clip is to fit the assembly? Thanks very much guys Alex

Often overlooked compared to its rally car equivalents.. I just sold my Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205 for 3k I can't tell you how enjoyable it was to own, never broke or mucked me about, loves the wet, lives for the snow, screw it, it loves the dry too! It Doesn't love the heat though however as it has a charge cooler... but it's easily lagged or swapped for a front mount :) With just an apexi air filter, straight pipe to turbo intake for least possible restriction, some pretty snazzy lagging material for the charge cooler, a decat and Mongoose system she pulled 311hp and 356lb/ft torque, more than enough to put a grin on your face in the country roads :D You can pick them up from 2.2k I suppose.. Have a peek :) Alex

I suppose itd be good to actually have my number.. duh! 07850337283 Cheers Alex

Hello chaps Thanks for your responses so far, I will have a scour over what plugs wiring I can asap Thanks ratboy&cyberbean I hadnt even thought about a delimiter box, it could have one i guess, again i'll check asap I'd gladly steal some of your time and have a little play with your conzult :) Take my number, and we can organise something, maybe we can even get together once a month or something for a natter :) Cheers Alex

Well I didn't know that! I'll check it out tomorrow. Thanks very much for both your help, sorry for my lack of knowledge and therefore nooby questions! One more thing learned! Woohoo! Cheers Alex

Just reading back through your posts you mention about "the seam where most people seem to jack from" I guess this is what i'm referring to, though whilst I am in complete agreement that it doesn't seem anywhere near strong enough to lift the weight of the car (especially in its corroded state), I presumed this seam was the dedicated jacking point as it has the little notches to show where the thicker and stronger point is for you to jack is.. I cant see any other "dedicated" points to lift from? But ok, thanks, I'll have a crack at pulling it apart, cleaning it up and putting it back together again similar to your instruction. Thanks for your help, Alex

Also, 150miles to £50 of fuel really isn't great, especially when i've been driving so it carefully as I know its not running right.. hardest i've pushed it is up to 4.5k so far You can smell it over fuelling, and almost see the fuel gauge decreasing (it almost chokes you on cold start up..) Would a bad injector or coil really cause such poor fuel usage?? Cheers Alex

Hi all, I got my Z on the road for the first time last week since buying it and fixing her up a bit over the last few months. My main issue is poor running (almost likeits missing on a cyclinder, constant shake to the car and poor power), but i'm going to check injectors and coil packs in the next few days. what I would mainly like to ask about is my oddometer.. i've done some reading and can find symptoms of speedometers cutting out at certain speeds, not working when cold due to dry joints, not working entirely, oddometers not working at all.. However I cant find any reference to an oddometer running at a lesser value... I just filled up £50 of Vpower, and I got 70km displayed... now working it out I think i've done approximately 150 miles/240km in that time..so more than 3 times more than displayed.. I've also watched it and it is constantly moving, not starting and stopping... Any ideas? Could it potentially be something as simple as a low voltage that is turning the motor at a lesser rpm? I admit I have yet to explore the issue, but I will try getting the clocks out when i have some time sometime this week. What really worries me is the fact that the 70000km car I thought I'd bought could potentially have triple that.... :( Cheers Alex

Wow :) Great job, and actually covers a few issues I currently have on my new Z. The jacking points are pretty corroded and completely folded over by previous owners/garages/whoever, and the chassis rails are pretty crumpled too from various lifts in the past I guess.. When I swapped over to my new wheels 2 weeks ago I had to jack on the chassis rails, but used a length of wood to spread the load, but they still seemed to bend in further.. Now I was in the MeisterR group buy too and I can't wait to fit them now they have arrived! But I daren't lift up the car as its just so weak :( Can you tell me how you went about repairing your original jacking points? It looks like its a sandwich of the wing the under side with a strengthening piece inbetween? Cheers Alex