John-E-Retro

Wanted: Petrol filler pipe for 92 UK TT, ASAP please, as car now off the road until I can get one. Tnx!

Big tnx for your suggestions, the wires look favourites to check first. I'm not big into car electrics, a different world to audio electronics somehow! Since there are a number of isolated diagrams it doesn't, for me, seem straightforward to understand what to expect on each connector terminal. Possibly more so with the 300 as I understand that many things are at +VE potential and earthed to turn them on.

Sorry for not explaining, the signal from the speedo system that sets the stiffness of power steering, wasn't there according to the diagnostics on Jeff's laptop. (without it, system defaults to stiffest setting for higher speed driving etc as safety default, according to Jeff) The new wire, remade the lost connection allowing the system to alter the power steering stiffness according to speed. It seems there was a break in that wire somewhere between the binnacle and the connector in the foot well. Without it connected now, no change.

I have a Jap TT where power steering not working nor speedo. Jeff Turner fixed this issue around 18 months ago by adding a new wire from the back of the speedo cluster down to a connector in driver's foot well. The fault came back some months later. Another issue, when I got the car home from when Jeff first fixed it, I noticed the boost gauge was pinned at max and that some of the back-lighting wasn't working. I never got the chance to take it back to Jeff prior to his finishing. I took the Jap cluster apart today and re-soldered all the joints to the chip and the rest (electronics is what I do) but no joy. I had another UK cluster which Jeff let me have and tried that today as well but no joy, again the boost gauge is pinned at max. There are obviously several issues here. Any suggestions as to pin-pointing this and a way forward etc? I noticed the wires/insulation on the plugs to the cluster are somewhat 'crsipy' and fragile! Any help greatly appreciated, tnx!

The guy doing it is quite an enthusiast for re-finishing cars. I saw his own Farari Dino he'd renovated, plus a couple Masuratis he owns too. Finishes like glass, seems to take a lot of care. They do a lot of really old vintage cars too and feel confident I'll get the attention to detail I'm looking for.

Many thanks! * Rear spoiler has been removed and looking for a new one. * What about the end trim pieces in the removeable roof windows? - They had bits broken off when I bought the car in 94, are they available, changeable etc?

In the process of getting my white uk tt fully re-finished: * What's important to check, instruct & look out for? * What indosyncrasies do z's have, if any, when it comes to a full respray? * (Bodywork, sils & wheel arches already sorted recently by zedworld) *

How much is it worth as is, considering it runs well etc? £500? Or a little more? Be good to get an idea?

It's the sounder for the alarm system.

I'm wondering what to do with my UK 92 white TT manual, 146k miles? MOT about to run out and I put it through a little while back to see what it needed as I expected it wouldn't go straight through - 4 items: * Wiper blade. * Offside rear brakepipe corrosion. * Excessive carbon monoxide. * Offside front (floor to outer sill) seat belt anchorage excessively corroded. I also took it to Jeff at ZED WORLD with a view to getting it really sorted and to get the bodywork back in true shape. Needs: * Front & rear sills. * Rear wheel arches. * Re-finishing - partial or full respray. Also needs new cambelt, front tension rod bushes, 2 X hicas arms, plus other odds. So all in all a fair amount of dosh! (I'm not z-less as I bought StuartR's jap auto TT a few months ago.) I've had the car since 94, all still standard, and it has had Nissan parts & servicing for virtually all that time (have all service invoices), until recently. And although the miles are high-ish it still runs well and feels good (to me) to drive. So a few questions: * Is it worth getting a Z of this age and condition sorted? * Is it worth anything much as it is now, how much? Advice/wisdom truly welcome! Thanks John

I wanted you to win on the deal, so worst case, you should be able to sell the gearbox alone, for what you paid for the car, then pounds in your pocket from there.

I lent my 90 J Auto N/A Z (I bought it from Uno a few months ago) to my partner's son. He'd actually driven it lots of times, but lost it coming out of a R/B and hit some bollards! Any good wisdom on what's best to do with it: Break it? Sell complete as scrap? Any other option? Too broken to fix I think! 114,000 kms, Engine still runs fine and it moves but power steering gone. As a stock ride, it felt very tight and comfortable, Hugely sad for a great piece engineering! Fortunately I still have a TT manual which he's not going to drive! .

Very good! Cheers John

Paid directly into Lloyds TSB.

I did see that, so OK, I just pay and let you know to look out for payment etc?

Maybe I missed it somewhere, but I was looking for the way to subscibe for the first time. What's the procedure? Thanks John

I've realised that I didn't say let you know the outcome of the MOT failure! Thanks to your input, and others such as andyduff, I took my z to another guy very close to me, who'd had a z himself for a while, and got the whole thing done, inc. MOT and 2 rear steering rack bushes, for £580. Definite result compared to the original quote, for £2,700 for bodywork alone! Huge thanks! John

So just to be clear: > the rust/crack has travelled and you have one each side of the car and they almost meet in the middle, then tbh, it is scrap time, soz It would be really obvious if I had this problem, is that the case? I'm still not sure. Cheers John

I did what you said and: * I can't see any cracking or rust on the inside at all, either side running from the seatbelt bolts or in line with the seat belt coils, which are behind a side panel. * There is some white sealant stuff going from the outside to the middle on the passenger side. Maybe the evil is under there? * The car is white so rust is always pretty obvious. * There is some sort or bitumin, or sim, material across the rear footwells so damage could be covered up but no sign that I can see. * The driver side sill is bad on the outside, by the seam almost level with the seatbelt bolt, I could push a hole in it underneath. - Would the line be across the floor just a couple on inches in front of where the shape steps up to support the back seat, where this white sealant is? Would appreciate your thoughts and/or any more info etc? Taking in to a local guy who does a lot of welding and had a z himself a while back, for second opinion. Cheers John

Really appreciate your replies, all! Comforting/encouraging for someone who really likes his old z, but doesn't know too much about them. Huge thanks! John

Thanks Smithy, will check it out, great information. John

I'm near Weston on the Green, not far from the M40/A34 juntion 9. Will try Brad, many thanks! John

: :):):):):) .

My white 92 UK 300, which I've had since 94, failed its MOT big-time. (It's done around 140k miles, I've done a 110 of that, as the second owner) The garage I took it to, are very experienced with 300s, having long history with Nissan, and Datsun before that. They've sold a bunch of 300s and always serviced my car, seemingly knowing them inside out, doing a good job. But they quoted £2,700 for welding alone saying the bottom of the car was rotten, and that a lot of metal needed replacing, and to do that they would have to pretty much remove the interior of the car. So with other stuff, could be talking much more than that. * So any thoughts/suggestions as to what my options are? * Is my only option to scrap it? (A hugely sad thought for me! I know it's only a car but 300s are so special!) * Is there anyone recommended that could keep it alive at a more reasonable cost? (I'm not up to speed with who's good with 300s) * If there's no option but to scrap it/break it, what's the best route? I don't want to be taking the thing to bits, haven't much of a clue. Appreciate any help/advice. Thanks John