Ant and Lari

Some short pipes with silicone in the end then!!!

On the intake above the dump valves??? Is this part of the old recirculation??? If so what are these meant to be blocked with??? Mine are just open.... Must have been like that for a while.... No wonder it stalls on braking at times..... Thanks.

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Drivers side... And the entire engine bay is tight. No room for even my small hands.....

Good point..... This is why I don't run a MAF anymore on my own car. Too many issues!!!! It's clearly blowing somewhere by the turbo. Now i can get it to run for a bit and get under it. I f I had spare pipes I would bypass the turbos and see if it idles.

Hmmmm a hole in a turbo pipe shouldn't have an idle issue should it??? I take it that stopper is replacing the maf? Them pump it there. Thanks

. I have visually checked. But can't see any issues. The only guide to test I found was pumping air in using a plate. Is there another way????

Surely if it's slipped a cam cog the timing to TDC will still be 15????? orim I getting that wrong.

I need to rule out the cheap eBay maf I have and my current OEM maf. Both show the same voltage 0.5 so I'm not sure either are right. Thanks. I'm happy to throw in a beer or two!

Right..... Update. Checked PTU connections. And they were corroded on one side but not dire. All cleaned and ran checks it passed them all but the no and yes where the opposite way round. Than the manual... Any easy way to get the CAS connector off???? or is it radiator shroud off and cam covers off?? Both my new and old maf only register .5 v max with ignition on. I did warm up the car (maf off) and then plugged it in restarted with some revs and help it at 3k no issues. Voltage on maf 1.58. Dropped it to as low as I cook and got to about 1.18 before it would not hold and died. If I remove the maf and the IAA connector it hunts a little but kinda idles. When I plug it in it does rise. And with AC on it rises a bit again. So I'm sure that is at least working. I can't check plugs at the moment as coil packs connections a sealed in. Surely it would just idle rough if a plug was issued??? So either it is still the MAF. Or the only other thing on my mind is the timing belt has slipped a cog??? how do I confirm this easily??? or is it covers off? Thanks in advanced... This car is becoming a chore........

Thanks grooves.

Cleaned the idle control valve and the extra one on the back. Although it was very clean. Cleaned the connectors on all three. Can't unplug my coils.... There sealed in. Obviously the clips are broken and they thought this was sensible. TPS is spot on to the decimal place. It turns over and if I stab at the throttle it will attempt to reve over 3k once above is ok for a sec then it drops and just will not idle. It hunts ALOT. Remove the MAF and turn it over and it runs like a dream. (up to 2.5k) Cleaned the ECT sensor. Only not done the PTU (old style) Found out my knock is not working. Going to clear codes at weekend. Anyone near me that I can try there MAF. I would be grateful as I'm on hols soon and need to send back eBay one if it is shot.

Can the knock sensor if not working cause the car to not idle????? I'm getting code 34 (now I know how to check the code) Or is this a red herring? If so any guides on replacing the sensor if it is shot. Also anyone got a testing process? I think one of my ECU wires is shot as only one shows a continuity with ground. I was tools the other should show 500ohm to ground. As to sensor tests. Anyone got a guide???

Anyone??? I replace it with an eBay unit and no difference but it could be my eBay one is no good. It idles smoothly with no maf and revs to 2500 fine before limp mode. I'm stuck now...... Thanks