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FuZTT

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom
  1. The car's now on eBay, and can be found in the 'Cars for sale' section. Thanks for all the guidance and advice with this everyone, it's very appreciated.
  2. Hmm, that's good news then. That leaves the brake lines as the next major job - anyone know how much of a chew on that is?
  3. Yeah, I think it's the best course of action - I don't have the resources or time to fix it. I'll list it up with all the history, all the mods and what the guy told me today, and I'll see what happens.
  4. I reckon I'll be putting the car on eBay tomorrow :(
  5. hmm... I don't think breaking it is really an option for me. As for fixing it, is it possible to drop the rear subframe out of the car when I've only got axlestands and jacks and limited garage space?
  6. Right, I've taken the car in to see a friend of a friend, who's an experienced mechanic. I basically said "here's my car, can you look over it all and tell me what's wrong with it" and here's the list: Front ARB Bushes Adjustable Tension Rods (or non-adjustable) Front Brake Pads Front ball joints NSF Flexi brake pipe Rear crank oil seal OSR Shock absorber boot Rear hydraulic brake pipes (all) 2 Rear track rod ends Rear link bar bushes Rear ARB bushes Rear subframe bushes OSR Hub (bearing shot, hub possibly damaged) Knackered front sills Questionable rear sills (previously been repaired, but covered with underseal) So, now I've got the decision, declare the car SORN for the winter while I fix the above issues... OR Sell the car with the above issues. The car's a K-reg LWB TT with leather interior, stainless exhaust, ZedWorld remap, aftermarket alloys.... but how much is it worth like this? £2k? The parts aren't majorly expensive, but the labour is going to be very expensive as the whole rear of the car needs to be dropped out to replace the rear subframe bushes and the brake lines. The leak from the rear crank oil seal isn't too bad so that can wait for the moment. The stuff on the front isn't too bad. I'm really split between the 2 decisions because I'm struggling to weigh up which would be better for me financially :S
  7. Mine's off the road now, so I can spend the winter sorting the suspension, correcting the paint and finishing off retrimming the interior. By spring, a minter will be driving out of the garage! In the meantime, I'm driving around my newly purchased Merc 190E :D
  8. You can fit them to whatever you want mate, however HIDs on the main beam is probably a bit excessive, and apparently they don't cope well with being switched on and off repeatedly
  9. I got mine about 4 months ago from JAM Performance (jpparts) on eBay. I received the same kit that's on the Zcentre site. They're still working, quick delivery, but I can't comment on aftersales service as they've been faultless for me so I haven't needed it!
  10. Aye, just a little bit above budget that one! I'm waiting for the guy to email me decent sized pics of this: http://http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUDI-COUPE-2-2-5-cylinder-1989-SERVICE-HISTORY_W0QQitemZ250528808222QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutomobiles_UK?hash=item3a54ae3d1e
  11. Hmm, I don't think I'll be buying a minter by any means - I've only got £4-500 to spend :D Glad you guys approve though!
  12. Hi, I'm looking at taking the Zed off the road for the winter while I sort my suspension out, and buying an old Audi Coupe. I can't find any decent reviews of these online, which is really weird, and I've been unable to find any MPG information for each of the engines, can anyone point me in the right direction? Also, what would be the likely cause of the dashboard guages failing (fuel, temp & speedo), as I'm looking at a cheap one on ebay with this issue & was wondering if it was an easy fix? Cheers for any input\advice, Brian:duffer:
  13. Right, this is what I've got: Silverline Rotary Polisher Menzerna Compounding Pad (White) Menzerna Polishing Pad (Orange) Menzerna Finishing Pad (Yellow) Menzerna 250ml Sampler Kit (Details Here) The orange pad, with a medium-cut polish works very well. TBH, the white pad is too abrasive and requires finishing to remove marring, and the yellow pad isn't needed if you have an orange one. Put simply, the orange one is the only one you really need. The silverline polisher is very cheap, but does have enough grunt to break down the compounds with the above pads as they're only 5" diameter, which matches the plate on the polisher.
  14. Not at all mate if you're careful. Start off with a low-abrasive compound and pad and work your way up. The cars are old and it's impossible to know how much clearcoat is left on it before you start hitting paint without a paint thickness guage. For that reason, I would completely avoid any areas that have been resprayed. The paint won't have been baked at as high a temperature as the original paint, so will be nowhere near as hard so the risk of causing damage is much higher. As for ease, yeah it's pretty easy, there's very good guides on detailing your car over at http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk, and it's worth having a look at a few videos on youtube first to get an idea of how to work. What machine are you using to polish your car? As a complete newbie, an orbital polisher\sander is recommended as it limits the amount of damage you can inflict! Rotary polishers are generally left to the more experienced guys. I'm heading out to the garage in an hour or so, and I'll get you a complete list of what I've got. This is only the second car I've done, so I'm a complete noob to this too, but I've done a fair bit of reading up on it, so feel free to ask away, but don't take my response as gospel :)

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