galea

now that the misfire is cured its all running good again! now if the rain would just clear up!

all cured! the misfire was due to a broken connection to one of the injectors! The performance is back again at last!

hi daz, how far in advance would i need to be booking at the moment to get my 300 looked over? ive got a misfire that needs investigating/sorting.

turns out, the clicking i could hear out the window when driving that i thought was coming from under the car is actually a misfire, can anyone enlighten me on possible causes and remedies? thanks

my old maf had 5 connector tabs a-e i think, then the one i brought from someone only has 4 connection tabs, b-e. is this ok? its cured the prob with the old maf not working and this one obviously is but is the (a) tab actually connected to anything as it turns out that the clicking noise i thought was coming from under the car is actually from the engine - a misfire! could this be from this new maf or is it totally unrelated? also is it still ok to drive the car lightly with a misfire for a day or two until the garage can fit it in or will it cause damage?

think i have a mechanical issue under the car but havent had a chance to have a look under it yet, driving along there is a fairly loud clicking noise coming from under the car and it increases in speed with more revs and stops when the accelerator is lifted. the car is also vibrating/juddering quite a bit and its mainly an issue at slower speeds, also not boosting as effectively as before, thinking this is all related to something mechanical under there around the gearbox or the drive??

cheers simon, and your time/effort was much appreciated, i'll have one last poke around tomorrow then hold off for jeff next payday. cheers mate.

yea thats fine, my email is galeaja@hotmail.com if you want to email me your address. cheers

yea i'd be grateful if you could plug it in and give me some sort of diagnosis, im off wednesday and friday, what time is best to pop over? cheers, joe.

yes that was what i meant jeff, thats a relief then, maybe thats what the other thread meant then that it shouldnt go into a positive boost. cheers. p.s. what is the waiting time for booking in at your garage at the moment and would the majority of jobs usually be done the same day, im thinking whether to make the 3.5 hour trip up to you to get my engine looked over, still a few problems with it, just looking at if theres anyone else with your expertise closer to me (lowestoft) before spending out 7 hours of petrol on an engine thats already running rich before even starting on the repair costs. cheers.

read on a couple of posts that the boost gauge shouldnt boost when in neutral? is this correct as my boost gauge goes up when i rev in neutral

or are there any other specialists closer to lowestoft? are mjp as good as zedworld?

few problems, could do with an expert eye, do i make the 3.5 hour drive to zed world for an accurate and precise diagnostic and repair or try henstead motorsport 10 minutes away? anyone know if the guys from henstead are close to the experience of jeff and co?

disconnected over night then done another diagnostic in the morning, all clear then started up and went for a drive and all clear after that too. also both o2 sensors were fine when i gave them a few more revs like you said. it seems to be running fine and sits at 1k revs in gear and 7-800 in neutral but is a little up and down in neutral, maybe its just a case of tweaking some settings as you say, had the throttle valves cleaned and new ngk iridium plugs in a couple of weeks ago. henstead motorsport are only 5 minutes away and have datascan i think so will probably pay them a visit over the week and see what it says. thanks for your advice.

thanks jeff, can you advise on the rest of my diagnostic? carried out a diagnostic and got code 12 and 13 when i disconnect the maf the revs pick up, is this showing that the connection is ok but likely a faulty unit? also the coolant temp sensor, when i disconnect it, the front fan kicks in then goes off when reconnected, does this show that the connections are ok but possibly faulty sensor? hopefully the 2 ecu problems are the reason behind my slightly rough idle. if replacing the maf and temp sensor, do i have to disconnect the battery for at least 20 mins to get the ecu reset and clear of the old codes or will testing it with a new maf and temp sensor show all clear if i havent disconnected the battery to reset? also could these 2 problems stop the o2 sensors working properly or make them lazy?

all instructions for carrying out the o2 sensor test on a standard ecu say with each sensor test it should blink over 5 times in 10 seconds but on mine, each sensor test flashed the light on for 15 seconds then off for 5 seconds then repeated, is this just a different result due to it not being the standard ecu and if so does that flashing pattern mean its all good?

carried out a diagnostic and got code 12 and 13 when i disconnect the maf the revs pick up, is this showing that the connection is ok but likely a faulty unit? also the coolant temp sensor, when i disconnect it, the front fan kicks in then goes off when reconnected, does this show that the connections are ok but possibly faulty sensor? also done the o2 sensor test while i had access to the ecu, the ecu is an impul z32a-1262 if that means anything to anyone? i put this as the instructions i followed said with each sensor test it should blink over 5 times in 10 seconds but on mine, each sensor test flashed the light on for 15 seconds then off for 5 seconds then repeated, is this just a different result due to it not being the standard ecu and if so does that flashing pattern mean its all good? hopefully the 2 ecu problems are the reason behind my slightly rough idle. if replacing the maf and temp sensor, do i have to disconnect the battery for at least 20 mins to get the ecu reset and clear of the old codes or will testing it with a new maf and temp sensor show all clear if i havent disconnected the battery to reset?

thanks, will check the connections on that tomorrow as well.

if my boost gauge boosts fine straight up to +7 and stays there while accelerating hard, does that mean i have no boost/vacuum leaks or could there still be a leak somewhere?? my idle is a little rough, checked a few connections, seem fine, the yellow temp sensor brings the very front fan on when i disconnect it then goes off again when reconnected so that connection seems ok, maf disconnected increases the rpm so that seems to be working ok, put new plugs in and had the throttle valves cleaned. will try an ecu diagnostic tomorrow to see if any codes are registered. where is the tps?

cheers guys, got there in the end, hope i dont have to do another one any time soon!

found a good link after a while of searching, looks like a real pain though! estimated 2 hour job to swap over a door handle!!

should have clarified, its the outside handle i need to replace, someone tried breaking in to it when it was with its last owner and its never been replaced.

can a low battery blow the fuse for the cd player?

ive finally managed to get the door card off but whats the next step for taking out the door handle and swapping it with a new one?

Looking for someone with datascan or conzult within an hour or so drive of lowestoft that can plug in to my z and see whats going on for a few beers.