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Posts posted by ianl
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I could probably make it
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Driving home from work today, every time I touched the brake pedal the hicas light came on. At first I thought low fluid and momentum, but it was definantly the electrical connection. In addition my dash lights dimmed as well, also quite often the aftermarket gauges would reboot (fed from stereo ign power and Lx) and a couple of times the stereo rebooted too.
I got almost home, literally as reversing on to my drive all electrics cut out, like totally (even the electric ariel didn't go down) and stayed dead.
After about 10 minutes of manouvering it by hand (steering is so heavy when off) back on to the road (so I can use other car tommorow) it just all came back to life (stereo had lost settings so was a complete power loss)
Anyone got any ideas?
Don't want to drive it in case it cuts out on motorway, and fault finding is harder now it's working again
I initially thought with the dimming dash lights and gauge reboot a short circuit between the brake lights and ground. But what's that to do with hicas / power stearing? And then with it completely dying I'm confused
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So works just canceled so could go
But still havnt got a ticket so can't
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Looks like I'm going to have to work this weekend 😞
Also hadn't bought a ticket yet 😞
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I am sure I cut it to exactly the right length ie same as old one, but picture shows I might be wrong
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I bought the standard door windows trim, shortened it in length and fitted it to the quarter light windows on the other side of the car
As I believe you can't buy oem without the windows, and the aftermarket ones are a different colour
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1 hour ago, arthur said:
Hi Ian, so if I change all the dials from my uk set into my mk1 case & keep my odometer would I still need a kms to mph converter?
If you move the speedo dial from UK into jap the speedo reads in miles without a converter. If you keep the jap odometer it will read km without an adapter.
I moved my speedo and odometer so no converter needed
I did however get an annoying side effect, every time the speed drops to zero the chime goes boing once. A few others reported this, most did not. I wonder if my donor unit was from an auto
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Series 1 and 2 have the same insides, but different outsides, so you can swap individual components.
Series 3 and 4 are completely different to 1 and 2
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I was actually considering the blue team for this
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I think Im free for this
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I think some luck was involved
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I fitted a camera instead of the lock barrel. It fitted perfectly, then I refitted the centre pannel and it was like looking through a toilet roll. Had to bodge a spacer to Make it work
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I assume by Goodwood, this meant the motor circuit, not horse racing or museum? Anyone here?
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Yes the cutting of the main and vallet keys is the same, it's the ridges down the key that are different
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The roof actuators won't work if the boot lid is open, is it possible the boot isn't registering its shut and stopping them working?
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Looks like this happens to be my next day off, so I should be there
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Flags! I see flags, are they going to beuleau too?
gutted i couldnt make it, looks great, amazing what a bit of advertising achieves 🙂
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I can't Make it, I was given the wrong date for a job which it turns out is on Sunday not Monday 😞
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I read it as it was fine as long as we were in by 9am, I was aiming for the previously advertised 8am
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NEED URGENT ADVICE!
in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
Posted
The only series 2 I have is missing the speedo