ben

Chris, Have you bled it the old fashioned way, through all three bleed nipples that you have, then use the alto gizmo that you've got? when i've done them in the past, I bled the old fashioned way, which got rid of most of the air in the system, then it needed a final push with the gizmo. Ben.

To stop the fuel going to the engine, why not just disconnect the relevant relay in the engine bay? err...'Enj Inj' From what I remember it stops the injectors from opening. This is the method I've used in the past, is this not a good idea? Andy? :bow:

Mine did this for over a year, I replaced the connector to the dash temp sender, no more probs. Try turning the connector around 180 degrees so that the hairline break in the wire is being held shut by the bending of the wire. (worked for me for a while) Really need to replacing it though. Have fun!

It follows down the drivers side of the gearbox, plugs into the starter and then to the back of the alternator. (but your lumps out, so you've already seen that! :) ) It has three or four plugs behind the headlamp, just unplug them. Be aware that the manual alternator loom has a six pin plug and the auto an eight pin plug. you'll have to chop the auto one off and wire it up to your new manual loom. Dead easy, just a bit mind bending looking at the wiring diags. PM me on ben.wagg@lpa-ltd.co.uk if you need to pick me brains. :cool:

I removed purely to stop the autobox light flashing up errors, it gets a bit upset when it can't find its gearbox! :rofl:

I connected the wiring for the inhibitor to the neutral switch on the gearbox, so the car knows when it's not in gear. The only downer is that you can't bump start it, but then who's going to push one of these things in gear?!?! :p

I've left them on my car, as they dissapear down behing the drivers side headlamp. I just tucked them out of the way. Their one end of the loom that goes to the autobox controller.

Aye one lives pretty much in the middle of wigan, but the car lives in warrington most days. (Have a free garage there!). I've got black 1990 TT, only obvious things are twinturbo.net stircker on the back and a vented nose panel. Oh and a minging, bubbly rear spoiler. :rolleyes: It's only been back on the road for a month after a year up on stands getting dusty. Which part of wigan do you live in? Seen a couple of Z'ds around wigan, yet to be flashed though. :confused:

Drove up to Glasgow from wigan this weekend in the zed, always shocked to see that all that fun costs so much fuel..... It lead me to wonder, what's everyones opinion on the most fuel efficient speed when cruising down the motorway in a twin tub? Also went under a copper doing arounds 85, just how accurate are these speedometers? (mine's bang on 80mph at 3500 revs.) Wondering this especially since i've converted my motor from an auto to a manwell. any ideas?

Head gasket went by the water channel on number 3 for me!

aye.....My motor's running fine with a N/A box on it. I believe the internals are exactly the same but bellhousing is slighty different where the starter mounts. When originally trying to fit my g/box the bellhousing touched the ring gear ever so slightly. To sort this i got the angle grinder out and shaved around 5mm off that part of the bellhousing and then mounted the starter with 2mm washers. Works a treat! My starter issues were with some muppet stripping the thread out of the lower bolt hole and me being to lazy to re-thread. :)

Quite a strange sense of humour.....

Hi Arthur, Basically I need the cash for it. Putting all the hard work and sweat that i've put into the thing aside. I'm trying to find out the best course of action. Of course it's a great car to the right person. How much do you reckon i'd get for it all in one piece?

Having seen the current prices of Zeds online and in autotrader i'm wondering whether it's better for me finacially to break my Zed or sell it. It requires the oil pump replacing due to it's casting being damaged by a garage trying to prise off the pulley. It also requires a full set of locks. (No key for the drivers door.) It has a little bit of the obligatory bubbling under the rear spoiler. It is a 1990 black import twinturbo, with 45000 miles on the clock. I rebuilt the engine fully after it popped a head gasket two years ago. (used the original turbos.) It has a super megaphone exhaust and a HKS intake. Oh, not a spot of rust either! I converted it to a manual a year ago due to the autobox lunching itself. I'm completely in two minds regarding this issue, as it'd be a lovely car for someone technically inclinded to sort out the issues, but is it worth more in bits? Any thoughts? Cheers, Ben.

Hey Rob! I know of a certain car that's going no where at the mo, and you can borrow some bits to sort your woes out if you need to. Ben.

Just make sure that the torque convertor is pushed back properly into the gearbox (It locks into gearbox oil pump) before you put it back on, or else bending can ensue!!!

I suppose you could block off the hose that goes to the clutch servo temporarily at the balance bar and see if that makes a difference. :-S. It'd just make your clutch a bit stiff for a while. Perhaps.... ;)

Hey Rob! those intake hoses were removed to allow your engine to lean back a little so that I could get at the top bellhousing bolts when sorting your g/box out. Loosen the clips and give them a twist, sometimes they sit a bit nicer against the hard pipes at each end. Cheers matey. Ben.

Chris, yep unfortunately you have to remove the side pods and then loosen the dash so that you can move it around a bit. I've never had to disconnect it totally, their's enough slack in the cables, just be careful! I use a long extension to get at the pedal box bolts through where the dash sits. For the clutch booster, you have to persevere with it. The patience of a saint is needed! The main wiring loom behind the dash has little of no play in it, so just try and work the top flange of the pedal box above it. Mail me if you need help. Ben_wagg@hotmail.com. Good luck!

Hi Rob. F.Y.I. the battery was disconnected for around 7 days when your conversion was done. My motor's getting looked at re the knackered oil pump, looks like they might admit to it after all. Here's hoping. Ben.

Does anyone know what mods I'd need to do to a US engine wiring loom to make it fit my Jap 300zxTT? Obviously i'd like to get one from courtesy because of the price. Has anyone replaced the loom with the engine in the car? Cheers in advance. Ben.

I've just put my Z away in a garage for 12 months now, I need some money in my life for a change, but i'm not going to give up on the thing! It's got a (fresh) problem, that someone might be able to help me with. When I'm braking hard, the oil pressure guage drops to zero then when the car has stopped it comes back up to quarter the way along the gauge. It's always read low on the oil pressure so I replaced the sender unti...nop difference apart from now it registers this sudden drop in pressure. The car has also developed a loud lifter ticking sound coming from the rear o/s of the engine, this will go away with the appropriate oil additive, but soon comes back. I think the two are related. Oh, the oil level is fine at bob on max. I reckon bad oil pump, but any ideas? I rebuilt the engine around 10K ago, no props apart from a deceased PTU since then. cheers in advance!

right.....deffo not any electrical connections, but check this out... I disconnected the fuel line to make sure that fuel was coming out, cranked the engine over and it started for a while!?!? right, reconnected the fuel line back onto it and now it seems to start everytime, just a little rough....WTF!?!? Anyway, I'm going to run back outside in a moment and surprise it, the b*stard will probably start too. I stumped.....

Well, so my Zed saga continues.... tonight my zed died on me whilest idling. I tried to start it to no avail (just cranking over). Called the AA out, (lovely bloke) who tried a few things, pretty much everything that i'd already done. He eventually got the thing started by keeping it cranking until it stumbles and catches. Tomorrow I'm going to find out what's wrong with it. The symptoms are:- A really unstable idle, sometimes dying, sometimes when the clutch is depressed the revs stay at, say 2000 instead of dropping down. Now I think the fuel pump is making more noise than usual. I know I can test it by checking the load on it, but what are the figures that i'm expecting? Can anyone help? Many Thanks in advance. P.S. the plugs and PTU(type 2) are all brand new as of last thursday.

At the moment my det sensor is bypassed by a resisitor (dodgy I know!), i'm going to fit a new one shortly. I want to move it's position, i've looked at the tech articles on TT.net and they all point to above the plenum, reducing its effectivness. I was thinking about putting mine onto the back of the block, where the battery negative leads down, or possibly even using one of the bellhousing bolts. Any suggestions? Cheers, Ben. P.S. I've got a Veilside ECU going cheap. It's mapped for an intake and exhaust on a manual 1990 car. Any offers around £150.