scottztt

Reading the post it sounds like the ecu temp sensor is knackered. Or the wiring for the ecu temp sensor has a break in it. One of the tests for the fan is to disconnect the sensor and the fan will come on. So if your fan is on with ecu check light you have sensor or wiring fault. Considering you have been removing the ecu, it's possible the break is at that end or you have done a common thing and overtighened the connector to the ecu so that the ends start to bow outwards. You don't have to do it up very tight, just enough to hold it in place Maybe some one on here can tell you which wire going into the ecu is for the ecu temp sensor. Once you find that out ( sorry i don't know ) run a multi metre between the sensor and ecu end to see if you get a circuit or not. If you do then it is probably the sensor that is faulty. i believe the ecu temp sensor is the only sensor that will tell the ecu to turn on the fan. If it was an air-con fault you wouldn't have safty boost or ecu check light. Scott

As Ian says his car didn't have the dim/dip on his 91'. I suggest you connect the green box back removing your additional cable and see what happens when you turn on the lights and see if the hids stay on when you go full beam. Mine is a 93' series2 so may be different to your car, i didn't know there was differences in the uk models.

No, you completely remove the green box. Can leave it in place just unplug the connectors, if you can. Then put a similar size cable as the red/black to join up the red/black cables. hope that makes more sense for you. Scott

Even if you wanted to compare the difference, trust me they are 10 times better. Let me know

Do you have a UK car ? if so i have a uk car with HIDS fitted, could show you how to filt them. Japs are different not sure how to fit them. p.s i work in Cambridge

They rebuilt my engine and upgraded to about 450bhp, highly recommend. Tell Chris @ ztech i told you that ;) You're right, there isn't anybody in east anglia who will touch a Z or any one i'd trust for that matter. He's a good 2.5 to 3 hour drive for you, He's in swindon but just off the M4. i'm in St Neots cambs and took me 2 hours to get home but i was running it in at that point. If it helps he knows a guy who has a trailer who can come pick it up, cost me pickup from cambridge ( dead engine so had to ) to ztech for £150 i think, then i went down on train to collect for £20. I suggest you book it in as when i was there, there were about 12 to 15 Z's waiting to be worked on.

That don't make sense after reading the comments. Did you mean to say always behind you in the UK ? :slap:

yeah you can run normal unleaded on uk car, i did until i worked out i was getting better mpg out of v-power. Well until i upgraded to approx 450bhp :nana2: , more to come :hyper::hyper: but now v-power only and really bad mpg:eek:

check the faqs, under engine, there is an article about the mot. In short no you don't have to put back on. I have decat and had my mot done by a VW main dealer and they mot'd it as a not cat car. But if your hydrocarbons are very high, over 1200, then it will fail, but might pass with the cats back on. But then if they are that high you have a problem somewhere. Scott

Philp , this is comment on zcentres website Designed for the Jap spec 300zx but can be fitted to the U.K spec 300zx's (dim-dip cct has to be removed) with the additional wiring cct details (available on request). So no idea why luke said he didn't have a diagram. Sorry can't find mine, but explained what i did above.

What i did was the following. behind wheel arch passenger side there is a green box with 2 connectors going into it, has this number written on it 28575 37P10 PD9. 1 is 4 wire 1 is 6 wire. Remove the box then jumper/ connect the red with black strip together, there is one in each bunch of wires. When i did this, the hids stayed on went full beam, hids stayed off when flashing head lights. This box is part of the dim/dip circuit. I then wire the ballasts to the cables going to the old low beam bulbs. Can't remember which is live or not, so you'll need to test with your lights on which is the live cable. This is important for the ballast or it will break. It's easy to try, just put a cable in the connectors for the red/black cables and see if it works for you, if not try another way. Scott

That looks like the jap setup to me, uk is different and i didn't do a fifth of that lot.

edit: And turbo manufactures do not go buying cars

I can't see how they can produce a bhp figure. Every car is different. You might get 250 bhp out of them but i might only get 230 bhp. It all depends on the mods done. And turbo manufactures do go buying cars and adding every possible mod to them. They normally indicate a max psi they can produce before it becomes hot air and useless. when i got my turbos they said they'd produce about 22/23 psi, didn't say they'd produce 250bhp.

Same here, Howe rad and elec fan. Having heating problems but not sure of the cause yet. Will be sorting in Oct. Looking at the design of the fan, the blades for me look too flat for my liking to suck enough air. The fan on the kit i got was 14", if i'd looked into it properly i'd have gone for a 17" kenlowe fan priced at £169.91 inc Vat. Includes fan, wiring, thermal control with sensor and instructions. Scott p.s no i don't work for Kenlowe

I'll get it out tonight, if i can find it. i'll take a photo and email it to you, i don't know how to put pics up on here. Don't leave your email just yet, i'll see if i can find it first. All i remember was i had to jumper some wires on a box behind passenger front wing, accessed via wheel arch. If i can't find paper work, i'll pull the box out and see what i did to what wires. Scott

The following will give you more bhp over standard car. Bigger turbos won't increase power without other mods as the standard ecu opens the actuator at about 9psi, so on their own won't increase power. to get the most out of the turbos you need: Bigger injectors to add more fuel Bigger intercoolers to let more denser air through dual maf to double air throughput bigger throttle bodies and piping from the maf ecu to allow higher psi ported heads to allow better airflow that is intake side, for the exhaust side split downpipes free flowing decatted exhaust system, not too big a bore or the turbo seals won't last to long and ported manifolds mechanicaly you can do the following which will help power and nothing to do with turbos. under drive crank pully lightened crank high lift cams lightened flywheel lighteded pistons, rods and bored out to 3.1 L ( i thnk that is limit ) this helps turbos as well though. More air/fuel can be sucked in for a bigger bang, more power. If you just want faster acceleration, you can change the diff gearing to na diff or Richmond leader gears whihc i think give same gear ratio as na. Then you can strip it down, put it on a diet and loose weight. I noticed something the other day while looking for wiring for 3rd brake light, removed the trim on the hatch and there was a big chunk of metal screwed to the car. I can onlt assume it is a couterweight to help the hatch drop down. Bet that weighs at least a kilo. As for nos, i didn't think that give top end power on a Z? I thought it came on at low rpm while the turbos spooled up then shut off when the turbos started boosting. Or can you do both ? This isn't a difinitive list, please feel free to add or correct me. Scott

Just had a thought, although just as bad on the gearbox i believe. check out ess-racing.com he does a paddle shift for the auto. Not cheap but a hell of a lot more fun. You could always sell it when you go manual. Scott

The black strip above the lights is a sticker, you can get from nissan for, i think i just paid £30 for that and the twin turbo ( seperate ) lettering to go on too. If you want part numbers let me know, got it in the car. As for the other bits, if it's what i think it is you are after, zcentre sells them. T-Tops are a sod to fit, you have to dismantle the whole t-top to get to the screws holding the black trim down. Luckly others have done it and there is a how to on twin turbo.net for you to look at. Scott

Have you checked the fluid level, mine had similar problem when put back together after engine rebuild, it wouldn't go into the high clutch ( 3rd and 4th), topped up fluid and was ok. Failing that try auto diags, on twinturbo.net, see if that says anything.

I have Uk car and that has R12. I've also been informed that R12 won't be available at all in a couple of more years, most dealerships don't have it anymore. I get it via a friend who works in refridgeration. If i were you I'd find out what you have now, R12 or the newer R134, If R12 get it converted. Which will change the fixings etc to R134. I think the rest of the system is the same. Also noticed recently Z1 in the states are selling oem air-con stuff alot cheaper than we can get it from nissan.

Do you have a Jap or UK car ? I have UK and fitted hid lights but had to do extra work over the jap model to get hids to stay on on full beam and stay off on flash headlights. You could email luke at zcentre for the diagram, he might be kind enough to send it to you. If not i'll hunt mine out of the garge and scan it in and email it to you on monday.

for the auto you can get a HKS ALC, Automatic line controller, this tells the auto ecu to keep the pressure up at high rpm , i believe, giving faster gear changes. Don't know anyone in the UK who sells it but you can get them from over the pond, Z1 and conceptzperformance sell them. Or try your luck on ebay for a used one. But , someone correct me if i'm wrong, i believe your auto should be in very good condition using this, cos of the extra pressure put on it.

Don't have an oil temp gauge ( yet ) so have no idea. Where did you get your sandwich plate to connect temp gauge too? or however you fitted it. cheers

Markzx, I understand what you are saying about the bigger turbos making the oil hotter, but I can get very hot water temps without even boosting the car ( driving it like my gran ) So don't see how that can be my problem. Does anyone know if you have to put sealant on the stat when fitting it ?