scottztt

You maybe right, but the car is running perfectly, getting full boost ( 19psi ) and even with 555cc injectors i'm getting 150miles out of half a tank of petrol. To me that is pretty good, if people get better i'd love to know.

Have a knocking noise coming from engine, starts at at about 3200rpm, disappears about 500rpm later. Anyone got any idea what might cause this? It seems loudest from oil pump area. The oil pump is only 2K miles old. Thanks Scott

Ok i replaced the electric fan with viscous fan, what a difference. It now won't go above 180F, it was going to 220 with electric. So in my opinion, i'll never put an electic fan on my Z again. I left the Nismo stat in. When crusing it sits at 160F ( 71C ). Also the electric fan was causing overrun. Meaning i could take the key out the ignition before engine shutdown. Now it dies as soon as i turn the key.

Just to let you know the din plate from zcentre, you have to glue it to the centre console. It has no fixings. I also bought the 3 hole one then bought 3 defi gauges ( 52mm ) but all 3 wouldn't fit, it's too tight for defi's. I ended up pillar mounting them. Although 2 would fit fine, just 3 is a problem.

no it dont look good. When mine went it started off by not moving when releasing the brake, had to use accelerator to get it to move. Then after ten mins had no drive, let it cool down it would move again but not far. You're looking at £1800 for rebuild or take a chance on a box off a breaker. might get one for about £400 + fitting. Whats the water level like in radiator?

check the gearbox oil level, dipstick in engine bay, pray it's that that is low.

Check your water level at the radiator cap ( when cold ) if it's low you may have a headgasket failure, white smoke can mean water getting in chambers. When you say no drive do you mean the car won't go at all? If so your auto may have gone, In which case, i'm sorry to say, you may have a scrap car on your hands, unless you are loaded.

I have a uk auto, i have the AT check light there as you mention but i also have the differential oil warning light ( in red ). Just thought i'd mention it, in case yours isn't working. Scott

also found this, compilation of 99spec pictures. http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/3/1072704/1072762

I found this pic of side on view, though not great.

You have 3 options then, if i was doing it. 1. get correct pricing done and hope insurance will pay for it. 2. Buy it back and fix it up 3. buy it back and then buy another car with say a dead engine and put you engine and box in that. If your lucky you could do this with the insurance money. Say you get 2K for it, buy back for 1K, but another car for £500 and £500 to do engine swap. Hasn't cost you a penny then. Not saying figures are correct but you may be able to work it that way. similar thing happened to my mums celica. Was wrote of cost for repairs. Got £2500 for it, bought it back for £1200. Then got it repaired with second hand parts for £800. She made £500 out of it. Only now it shows up as a Cat D write off. But as she isn't planning on selling it, doesn't really matter.

Your other problem is insurance co's price repairs up with new parts, or should i say the "guys" doing the quotes for them. Your best bet is get Paul@swz to give you a price for everything you need and send that to the insurance co. Your car is what 17 years old now. It doesn't need new parts from a dealership put on it. IMHO. Best of luck getting it back on the road.

Have you relocated the fogs ? Just that couldn't see one on the photos. It's also a mot requirement to have at least one rear fog light.

Yeah i got them from my local nissan dealership. The big black sticker going above the lights part number 93094-42P10 £8.67 +vat the TwinTurbo 93094-40P02 £12.41 +vat you can get the nissan to go on the left, but i didn't bother with that so don't know the part number. Scott

I'm suspicious, if it's uk as stated, where are the fogs in the rear bumper? Scott