amadeus_and

The whole bodykit is made from metal reinforced with fibreglass...the spoiler is metal...that's why i said i don't have the guts to remove anything... I'm still looking for a clean shell, but it's hard to find a SWB one...specially here...

This is the way my car was "tuned" 6 years ago, 6 months before i bought it, but up until now i haven't found a spare shell so i can safely have the "tuning" removed, because i am afraid of what i may find underneath...:scared:

Here is my interior, i had ALL the black interior pieces in light cream leather...

Did you also changed the bearings??? Often a bad bearing allows the piston to tap into the head and valves...do not over rev it, it will only get worse... I think sticky lifters are noisey also on idle... If i were you i would check oil pressure(aftermarket gauge and sender, no stock), engine compression, then the bearings and the crank..i learned this things the hard way...

Sorry, there is no difference except the oil pressure sender positioning...i am using a rhd block in my z, and that is the only difference i could find between the two... PS: i don't need anything...:tongue:

Not possible, i already tried, but my Z is LHD...maybe on yours could be...

you don't need anything, i have something similar from Z1 motorsport, it came with the GT675RS turbo kit i bought... this is the kit: Starting with the right hand side (passenger side on US models). In order to install the 90 degree AN fitting on the back right hand side of the engine you will need to remove this adapter block first. After removing the original oil line adapter you are ready to install the replacement 90 Degree AN fitting. The pipe thread portion that screws into the block requires thread sealant, a high temp liquid teflon or teflon tape sealant is suitable. Hand start the fitting to insure that it is properly threaded then tighten it down. It will require a wrench with a long reach to access the fitting. Once tight the fitting should point downward to insure that the line can be routed properly. Prior to mounting your turbo pre-install the oil restrictor into the turbo, applying some high temp loc-tite sealant to the threads. Then attach the line to the oil restrictor. No sealant is used on the AN fitting (hose side) of the fitting. Be sure to route your oil feed hose inside of the metal lines, keeping the oil feed hose as far from the turbine housing as possible. Route the hose underneath the turbo. Do not position either of the oil feed lines so that they rest directly against the turbine housing (hot side) of the turbo. Attach the oil feed hose to the 90 degree fitting installed in the block. Hope this helps... Source:Z1 Motorsport

I had the same problem...code 21... Try looking at the ecu conector...i switched my ecu with another two and had the same code...finaly we discovered that some of the ecu's pins are crooked and when we plugged the first ecu in it pushed out the conectors from the plug...so they just barely made contact with the ecu... We pushed them back in, and the code 21 dissapeared...MAGIC... But to discover the problem we passed through 3 ecu, 5 ptu, 24 coils, 2 ptu wirings...and a lot of nerves... Finaly we measured the tension going to the coils and 2 were getting very weak current...but sparked very light so we could be fooled...