zbob

My Z is shaking itself to pieces slowly - time to sort the propshaft. Can anybody confirm the part number of the "rear gearbox mount" I keep reading about? The diagram I have in front of me has 3 likely bits: 11340, 11320 or (my favourite) 11375? Also, has anybody recently got a one-piece prop? If so, where from? how much? any good? Thanks.

No idea. Some bloke in Japan fitted it .... OK 2 questions. Where would I get a wheel boss with HICAS sensors if I needed it? I steering wheel end is OK, why would the steering alignment be slowly moving left?

Thanks for the replies. The car, left to its on devices, wants to veer to the left slightly now. I have the steering wheel about 5 degrees to right to hold a straight line. This was dead straight 3 months ago. The tyres are 4 months old and the pressures are checked weekly - fine. My HICAS warning light comes on after 20 miles or so. I believe to problem is with the steering alignment and not just the steering wheel moving. How would the steering alignment move?

Why would my steering wheel be slowly moving out of true position? (It's an after market momo).

My import came with the spare keys unused in the glove box. The key number was on a small metal tag attached to the key ring. My Nissan dealer could only cut a key from this. The local cobbler/key cutter did the job much more cheaply.

A while ago I posted asking for advice on noise and vibration from the driveline - just thought I'd give you an update. The vibration was the joint in the propshaft. Apparantly this had partly siezed which is not good for smooth running. Protech in Nailsea sorted this for me and the car can now play in the fast lane of the M4 without shaking itself to bits. However, that wasn't causing the loudest noise I had. That turned out to be the Japanese spec tyres (Bridgestones). After replacing them with Pirellis the "wu-wu-wu-wu-wu" at 40mph+ is now gone. What do the Japanese put in their tyres? The HICAS thing relates to the fact that sometimes (not always though?), after around 20 miles my HICAS warning comes on. Fluid levels are fine so I thought I'd try the diagnostic procedure. Has anyone got this to work? What's the knack? Steering then brake? Steering and brake together? Give me clue if you can. Other than that, my only problems at the moment are a little hesitation under FULL throttle, or not as much shove as I used to get. I dont think I should have fed it 95RON for 2 months! That and a Japanese stereo that only receives radio 2. (no!) I'll keep you up to date.

Guess where I bought my Z from in August! Here's a list of faults I mailed Zubi the day after I got home: 1) The speedometer reads in km/h, the odometer rolls forward in km. I have contacted the following company, who will convert the speedo and set the odo to show miles. This service will cost £170 + VAT. The £60 quote I mentioned on the phone was for reseting the odometer only. This bill I expect to be invoiced to you. The car is booked in for 16/8/03. Protechnical Ltd. Tel: 01275 859995. 2) After driving for 10 minutes or more, the HICAS warning light comes on and the power steering fails. 3) The brakes (wheel bearing?) are noisy above about 30-40mph (grinding noise). 4) The nearside rear tyre is possibly punctured. During my 120 mile drive home it was at 9psi. Zubi did cough up for ProTech to sort the speedo (which cured the HICAS) but the moral seems to be don't take assurances of full service's and mechanical inspections too seriously. The problem is they farm out all the mechanical work to a third party who is just not reliable. For instance, they fitted new front discs and repaired the temperature gauge on my car, but failed to notice a tyre at one third of its' correct pressure or a leaking master brake cylinder. The noise is probably the propshaft not the brakes. Get an expert to look at the car and don't rush the purchase as I did. PS. ProTech seem spot on.

I bought my imported TT '92 manual car a month ago, and that time has thrown up a few problems. I've just been told that my master brake cylinder has a leak (it does, I can see it). Along with this, after the car warms up, I get what I can only describe as a 'wu-wu-wu-wu-wu-wu' noise from the rear. This rises in pitch with speed until it's continuous and loud. When this stage is reached, if you stop the car and move off again, I get a metallic grinding noise which seems to start under the gear lever and moves backwards. Oh, and after 20 or so miles, the HICAS warning light comes on. My local Nissan dealer isn't much help. Is any of this this connected or is the car shagged in a few different ways? Ant possible causes or pointers would be much appreciated. Ta.