kierash

Mail sent.

pete21st....if you want to drive over to winsford, I'll gladly take a look and tell you what is wrong. regards Pete

RS do 2 versions...wattage's ...go for the higher wattage/power, they are about £25.00 plus vat and delivery. Have you tested the output voltage from the inverter, it could be the E/L strip that is faulty.Oh if you remove the panel connector and apply 230v ( domestic) carefully if all is ok the panel will light up ( the panel can withstand 230v no problem for short period).DO NOT pull on the wires that go to the panel as they are soldered to very flimsy tags on the E/L strip and will come off. hope this helps Pete

It's about £40 to £50 quid for the parts(E/L strip and inverter) in the UK and about 2hrs work to repair an original panel or 5/6 hrs works to convert a non-illuminated.....been there, done that etc. So the states is a good price. however the parts costs drop quite alot with the more you buy....obviously. Pete

the AFM was replaced about 2 months ago, never thought about the TPS. cheers guys will try tomorrow and see what happens,however conzult reports all ok Thanks

C'mon guys.................any ideas

Need some pointers here guys.......I was reversing my N/A back up my drive, just dipped the clutch a little and the engine cut out, started back up first tun of the key and continued to reverse up the drive, stopped and put hand brake on and let the car idle......the revs began rising and falling 1500 down to 500 for about 30 seconds then settled back to normal (850ish), the engines done many things, which I've sorted with little problem, in the past but never this........... any ideas Pete

feel for you matey, happened to me 3 months ago, in the process of going self employed.....................

IIRC, it's behind the door card near the bottom of the door, its a small black box with a connector to it ( does both windows I think) when mine went T*ts up last year it had a burn't out track on the pcb, bridged it out and been fine ever since......................never did find out what caused it tho. Pete

nope, they're the same. short post but to the point LOL Pete

Regrettably I Never did take any photos.......Just wanted my car back on the road and my mates I did on the front of his house on the road, so wanted to get it sorted before the sunshine turned liquid. Anyway IIRC the air con stuff is on the passenger side and you need to gently lever the heater box to remove it, once out of the car it comes to bits very easily.....held together with a few clips and screws. you will end up with a top half and a bottom half. Pete

you'll also need to open the blower chamber( the bit the matrix slides into) because there are center pieces in the middle...........I know cause I did 2 last year.you need to take it out of the car to open it and it's a bitch to get out without damaging the air con equipment.....but it's possible pete

try the breakers in the traders section or look up zedworld on the web and give jeff a call.......I believe he has them. Pete

yep, quite right Pete, even the stillens needed modding, although I didn't need to flatten them,only grind part of a weld and fit both o2 sensor bosses, only had to do 2 trial fits to the drivers side and once to the passenger side. some of the original manifold bolts are a bitch to get at, I think I was lucky because all the nuts came off with no problem.I also found that the passenger manilfolds go in/out no problem without having to remove anything, but the driverside is easier with the starter motor off and out of the way and be very careful not to break the o2 sensors. Still if you know what your doing and have the tools to do it, then it isn't a hard job. Pete

took me 6hrs including any mods (o2 sensor bushes etc) to fit the stillens I got off you, so I would agree with your price...... Pete