PSICONCEPT

ok great Thats what I assumed, that BOV should not leak air when idling. That was creating one huge Vacuum leak and messing up my idle. I know BOV are not really useful but the main reason is to get ride of that Goose Honk. Its not the nicest sound, and its so annoying every time I hit 4000 RPM. The HKS SQV dont have any adjustment screws on them, it should be a direct fit. I have the latest style 2007 SSQV2 that came out a few months ago. Did anyone tried aftermarket BOV like HKS or any others and use them with the recirculation kit? Can you still hear any sound when shifting? Does it get rid of the goose honk? Also I was wondering if that HKS electronic module is really necessary for the Air Fuel ration. Did anyone tried it? It would be great to hear some feedbacks. Maybe that would fix your woman farts issue CarlZ, that must be because when you drop the pedal, the ECU gives more fuel for the air that is releasing, but since you dont have your recirculation valve on. Your A/F ratio gets very rich, which cause these flatulences. That HKS module is suppose to change your MAF values to compensate and keep the ratio even. thanks

MAJOR PROBLEM: HKS SQV2 BOV, Need advice from people running BOVs! Hi there, I installed 2x HKS SQV2 BOV today. I bought the universal kit so I had to buy 2 caps at the hardware store to plug both holes from the air inlet pipes where the stock recirculation valve were spitting back to the intake. I bought all brand new clamps for the installation. The universal kit also comes with the hose adaptor for the vacuum that goes on at the back of the bov. It The large side fit the OEM hose, then I added a vacum a bit smaller that connect to the BOV nipple. I made sure that everything was very tight and nothing was moving. I added zip tie and a clamp on each vacuums. Then I reinstalled the fan, the T form the intake, the JWT pop. I started the car, let it warm up for about 10-15 mins, then I took it for a spin. I accelerated on the street, changed gear and pshhhhhh what a nice sound! It was like a symphony to my ears. Then I realized that every time I was giving more gas and releasing it, the idle would jump from 500 RPM to 2000 RPM back and forth. The car was almost stalling, and it got worst and worst. The idle was very unstable, I just made it home. It also did 2-3 backfires on the way back. I was pretty upset since I must have spent over 500$US for this kit, and the extra parts (caps, clamps, zip tie...). I took everything apart again, made sure there was no vacuums or hose that popped out. Everything seems fine but I reinstalled both of them just in case and made sure everything was tight. Then started the car and died almost right away, the idle was very unstable. I checked to see what happens when I gave him some gas. The left BOV is spitting alot of air and the right BOV isnt spitting anything. Also even on idle, without giving any gas the left BOV seems to be releasing air. I thought this is probably a defective bov. It shouldnt release air under no boost condition. That probably created a huge vacuum leak and killed my idle and air fuel ratio which led to the backfire. I will be contacting HKS for a replacement and see what they says. I then reinstalled the original Nissan OEM recirculation valves. Took the car for a spin and everything is running great. No problems at all. I would like anyones feedback about this to make sure the problem is the BOV. I did alot of research and saw many post saying that BOV spitting in the atmosphere will mess up your Air Fuel ratio, you will end up running rich and it can backfire. Is there anyone here that installed some BOV and didnt have any problems at all? I am hesitating, if its gonna make my car idle unstable, they are not worth it at all, and I should probably resell them once I have my replacement bov from hks. I just want to see if anyone that have some BOVs have any problems like that or if all those issues should be related only to the leak from the bad BOV I installed. I also saw that HKS was selling a module HKS EIDS to make your idle more stable when using a BOV. Is it really necessary? Anyone tried it? http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=2175 I saw that HKS also sell an adaptor to recirculate the air to the stock intake. Its just a fitting to install on the SQV2 bov, and you can then re attach the piping to the intake tubes. Did anyone tried that? would that be better for the idle problems? When they recirculate the air, that probably kills the nice pshhhhh sound. So it makes them pretty much useless and it would be best to stick with the oem valve. Please help and share your experience with BOV, thanks

It might be, I started the engine again for a while and couldnt see any leak. Did that ever happen to you drops from the AC condensation to the exhaust? I drove the car hard for about 30 mins when that happen with the Temp set to AUTO. Then when I came back, opened the hood and heard the drops.

thanks alot for the reply. I checked my hoses and they were not the same length. Also I looked under the left side of the upper plenum, and a small vacuum was disconnected. I fixed that and added a tie wrap on it to make sure it doesnt come off again. Also for the SBC location, maybe I should add rubber washer under so it doesnt vibrate on the firewall. It's pretty annoying. Would it be much better to re install it near the headlight? Hoses would be shorter. By the headlight panel are you talking about the nose panel between both headlights? Just wanted to make sure. I will look over all the suspension components for the rear. thanks Pat

Hi guys, we are having a few issues with a 1990 TT. We did alot of research in here and TT.net but still have some questions, and maybe someone can link the problems together etc... MODS: JWT Stage 3 ECU JWT Single POP intake Blitz SBC ID3 boost controller RPS clutch & Flywheel The car is running the stock exhaust with gutted cats. (Waiting for a SpecialtyZ system; downpipes and cat back.) We tested it with Conzult, everything was fine. Power balance test was ok, and everything else seems normal. SBC PROBLEMS: First we installed the Blitz ID-3 using this guide from TT.net: http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=995129&forum=technical&dtSearch=0 It says to mount the boost solenoid to the firewall behind the battery, thats what we did. Everything has been hooked up properly and we also installed the power meter ID and hooked it up to the speed wire Pin #53 from the ecu harness. We are experiencing unusual boost spikes. I talked to many people and their settings for 15 LBS are around GAIN: 10-15 and a SET: ~40. However when we have our SET to 35 and whatever GAIN we use it spikes to 15.0 - 15.5. Only when the GAIN is 0 that we dont get any boost spikes at all. These seems like really low numbers. (SET 35 GAIN 0). We set the limiter to 14 and because of the spike while testing it went all the way to 15.6. What is the max boost the stock engine, stock turbo, stock injectors can take for a similar setup. We run on Octane 94. Not sure what could be the problem, Vacuum leaks? Location of the Blitz solenoid module? Where is the best place to mount it? Also do the vacuums need the same exact exact length between the solenoid and each waste gate? Could the exhaust restrict the car too much? We used the option B from that guide and left the stock boost solenoid in place and we just disconnected them. EGR PROBLEM Once we got the SBC ID 3 installed, we took it for a spin. After around 30-40 mins of driving the check engine light turns showing a EGR System code 32. We double checked all the hoses. Everything seems ok. Not sure what can be the problem. The car is a CALI and use a JWT cali ecu as well. I have been told I could delete the EGR by using a Fed ecu and disconnecting the EGT sensor (They are only on Cal cars). That way the check engine light would dissapear. We dont have any emission test here in quebec so deleting the EGR should not be a problem. RADIATOR: We also had the Radiator. The core was perfect, but the sides are in plastic and its leaking from where they connect. we tried tighting up the metal clamp and adding sealer but its still leaking. We ordered an AMS radiator with a Z1 solid lower hose. This should fix this problem. LEAKS: We also had a turbo line and the rear main seal leaking oil. We fixed all that while installing the new RPS clutch and flywheel. Now we have another leak, Its from the passenger side, at the back of the engine. We can hear drops falling then pshhhhhh. I suspect the heater hoses maybe. Another strange thing, when accelerating there is a small rattle that seems to come from behind the dash on the passenger side. Its not very loud but I can hear it well when driving. It started to do that after we installed the SBC I believe. Could it be the pressure in the vacuum that come in from the passenger side fender hole? When detonation happen is it a small noise or its very loud? Just still trying to figure out what could be the problem here. SUSPENSION: When going over 200 KM/hour and hitting a small bump the rear want to fishtail. Its scary and hard to control. We originally thought the problem could be an alignment. The car is running still on stock suspension. Maybe the problem is the HICAS. Would installing the HICAS remover Stillen kit fix this problem? What else could cause this? This Z is hard to work on, there is not much space under the hood! :cuss: Thanks