Anthonyd

Funny you should say that..... - - - Updated - - - Done ok I would say...

Well it was settled with a bit of pushing at £4000 and £500 to buy her back. Been busy getting things done.. The garage did well to catch it when they did as box, cables and plastic trim were alight. So dash out and pull out and replace all the toasty bits. The dash is back in and I'm just putting all the other parts back in, cars runs and is alive!

If you're in the Bridgend one my Z is in a unit not to far away!

Didn't realise you were back with a Z, where are you working now?

I'm just deciding whether to go for buy back if they allow it but firstly I need to agree what it's worth. Only done 50 miles in it since put on the road after 3 years and 0 without the clutch slipping!

So unfortunately a small electrical fire has damaged a fuse box and carpet so with parts cost insurance say it's a total loss, just had flywheel and clutch done, runs well with 110k on it, 6 months mot, respray, gtr35 carbon spoiler, some rate rims on it, manual TT with leather. So what value should I argue that's it's worth?

I have two sets of new unused silicone hose for sale; The two heater pipes and short connectors to the rad ally pipes £45 & delivery £4 Then the 4 vacuum pipes from the back drivers side of the engine bay £55 & delivery £4 or just one delivery charge of £4 for the both.

Si, the hel kits all run this end fitting and for the 300 they aren't designed to fit to the caliper, hard line remains. I was lucky that I could make my own up and run straight to the caliper!

Found the broken wire stopping the speedo working so now I actually know I'm speeding!

Looking for a clutch and a clutch slave cylinder?

I ran a q45 at 503bhp no issues

As above needed, not sure if mines gone but need to rule it out.

Slowly working through all the little things on the car. The passenger side central looking doesn't work, doesn't lock or unlock, drivers side is fine but when trying to lock the alarm just keeps beeping. Fed a live to the wire in the solenoid and it seems to move any ideas? Maybe the feed from the car or can I try to wire it into the drivers side wire ?

I'm adjust the rod now at the back of the pedal, winding it into the pedal shackle i.e. out of the vacuum booster attached to the master cylinder. Biting point is getting lower so will test drive tomorrow and let you know.

Slips straight away above about 3k the rest of the time it's ok, goes into all the gears ok, nice and smooth?