annihilate

Hi Am not getting 1.2 bar immediately. It rises up as normal, and the highest it has gone before I took my foot off the pedal was about 1.25 bar. Not really sure if there is a slow reaction. Possibly but don't really know! Really need to take it to someone who knows. Gotta save a bit of money first, as I am guessing it isn't going to be cheap. :(

Thanks mate. Have you had any luck with yours yet? Found out what the problem is? Not sure when I'm going to get mine looked at. Need the car for work, so until I book some holiday off, can't really take it anywhere. Hopefully shouldn't have to leave it for more than two weeks, although hearing some of the stories on here about people waiting months and months for their Zed to be repaired, who knows!

Thanks Chris. You pretty much got it spot on, except I didn't need to actually cut the aerial cable. I just disconnected the positve red wire from the switch and all works ok. Earth to earth, and power aerial cable to accessory. Nothing connected on the positive connector. Works exactly as you described. Cheers. :cool: Colin

What :confused: Thanks for replying Chris. The switch I have is one of these: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/switches/photo/e471.jpg which has 3 connections on it, positive, accessory and earth. So you are saying that I only need to connect a wire to the accessory connector for it to work? I think I tried that earlier and it didn't work at all. Will disconnect the red wire from the switch tomorrow and see what happens. And I want the aerial to stay down, not go up when listening to CD. ;) Since I only listen to CD's in the car, what's the point in having the aerial go up and down everytime I have the headunit on.

Cheers Chris. I have got the switch working now, however, with a bit of a problem. Basically I don't think I should have used the red wire on the back of the headunit as the positive feed to the switch. Because now if I have the switch to on, when I turn off the ignition, the headunit stays on, as does the interior lights on the dash etc. :o Pressing the switch to off then turns the headunit off and the lights. Can anyone advise on where I should get the positive feed to the switch from? Thanks

Anyone got a wiring diagram for this? Is it just a case of connecting 2 new cables, one onto the blue cable (aerial) and one on to the red cable (12v power) and then connecting them to a switch? Do I need to put any inline fuses, and if so on which cable going to the switch? Thanks to anyone who can advise Colin

Thanks for replying mate. Is it going to be the actual wastegate that needs replacing? I thought their was a wastegate actuator that controlled the opening and closing of the wastegate, and that it would be this that would need replacing?

Am planning to get it sorted but need to know what parts I might need or if there's any tests I can do myself to diagnose the exact problem. Am taking the car easy currently, but its very difficult to control that right leg, so on the odd occasion, I do forget and give it some. Then I look at the boost controller and say "1.2 bar, oops, shouldn't have done that" or something very similar ;) Most of my journeys I actually manage to control it and sometimes have a max boost of about 0.1 bar. The car should safely be able to go to 1 bar, so hopefully I haven't done any damage the couple of times that its gone over it.

Hi mate. No boost jets. I have an Apexi AVC-R which is set to off, and so I should be getting safety boost I presume? But certainly shouldn't be getting 1.2 bar, and that would go higher if I wanted it to.

Hi I believe that one of the wastegates on my car has been stuck closed as the car is overboosting hughly. Can anyone tell me what parts I need to fix this, and what it involves. ie if I had the new parts, is it a job that any competent mechanic could do or do I need to take it to a specialist. Thanks to anyone who can help. :cool: Colin

Just to give an update. Have received a response from Alpine and basically none of their UK headunits have the functionality of retracting the aerial when not listening to the radio. This was only available on Jap spec headunits. So does anybody have a link to the post mentioned above that has a wiring diagram for adding in a switch for controlling the aerial? Thanks

What's all the secrecy with this? Why not just post the settings up for everyone to see so that they can be archived on the board available for everyone to see/use? :confused:

Anybody had any luck with this. Have made sure all the settings I could find are turned off but still no luck. Looks like I'll have to wire in a switch then. Very annoying :(

Yep, may have to do the same, just wire in a switch to put the aerial up when needed. However, there must be a reason why it doesn't work with the new headunit, unless it is a headunit thing and was just lucky with the previous one.

Thanks for your reply. Have just gone and checked and TA is not on. I guess it must be a wiring problem somewhere. Have ordered the ISO adapter from Autoleads. Should tidy up the wiring a bit, even if it doesn't fix the problem. Also have no sound from the driver side speaker, so something definitely not quite right :confused:

Hi My previous Alpine headunit would retract the electric aerial when you changed the source on the headunit to either CD or Minidisc. If you then changed it to to tuner, the aerial came up again. I have had a new Alpine headunit fitted and this functionality now does not happen. The aerial is always up when the headunit is on. Is this the same for everybody? Would love to get it back how it was, as I very rarely have the radio on so would be great if the aerial was down when the CD's are on. Thanks to anyone who can advise.

To fit it would need cutting down a fair amount and then hoping that you've cut it prefectly so it all lines up. Am going to go for the DIN slot mounting as that's the only other place that I like the look of putting them. Having sat in the car and imagined them being in the DIN slot, I don't see it being any more of a problem than looking at gauges in a pillar pod. I think I will actually prefer them in the DIN slot. The annoying this I have already ordered a DIN cubby hole thing which I will not need now I am getting a gauge holder to go in its place. You live and learn :cool:

:rofl: Made me laugh. Not been a good day today. Alarm fitter cancelled, pillar pod doesn't fit, fitted a new door locking motor which has exacty the same problem as the old one, and the adapters I brought for the oil filter sandwich plate do not fit either. Time for some :duffer:

Hi Are there any other SWB Slicktop owners who have brought aftermarket gauges. I would be interested to see where you have mounted them. Am very disappointed having just purchased the 3 A pillar pod from SWZ, only to find out it does not fit the SWB Slicktop. Pretty annoyed that this is not mentioned on the SWZ site, nor on the ZCentre site which also sell it. Would ideally like to have it mounted in the A pillar pod, so does anyone else know of a place that sell a 3 pillar pod that will fit? Looks like I may have to go for the mounting in the spare DIN slot, which is not ideal as many have mentioned on this forum, as you have to look down to see them. Thanks Colin

Have been looking on the net for some adapters and have so far found a couple of options: 1. Buy this 90 degree adpater for £20 :eek: http://www.bsr-aerotek.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=2_199_200&products_id=2228 2. Use the larger hole which I am unsure of the size, and get a reducer from this page: (This is a bit cheaper) http://www.bsr-aerotek.com/store/index.php?cPath=2_199_201 It will either be the 1/4 to 1/8, 3/8 to 1/8 or 1/2 to 1/8. Will have to unscrew it and measure the diameter I guess. Is a load of oil going to come out when I take off the largest screw? 3. Buy this: http://www.bsr-aerotek.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=2_199_200&products_id=2218 and then this: http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/ecom/product_info.php/cPath/30_31/products_id/118?osCsid=63bbf38df1edd2604dcdd (need to find a UK company selling this bit though). The second bit may possibly fit on its own, but its hard to tell how wide it is, so the first bit may be needed just in case. This seems a bit overkill though using 2 bits to extend it! Option 2 looks best I think. Also, do you have a link to somewhere that is selling the top rad hose that you got? Thanks Colin

Spoke too soon! The sensor does not fit. It is the correct thread, but it wont reach the hole! It has the thread and then goes hexagonal which is quite a bit wider than the thread. This is blocking the sensor from reaching the hole, as it hits the side of the sandwich plate before getting to the hole. Very annoying!

Have taken a photo of the remote oil filter as it looks like it may already have places on it for sensors. Are the three gold bolts just blanking bolts, which could be removed to screw a sensor in? Thanks

Thanks for replying mate. Yep seems odd though as the manual says that even disconnecting the battery does not lose the settings. The only way to reset it is to actually reset it using the AVC-R initialise setting. I have set it to OFF until I find someone who knows how to set them up. With it being set to OFF, what should be the max boost I can get? Thanks

Also received mine this morning. Also no SWB TT Manual in there, but what would I do with 2 of those anyway! Thanks. :)

Hi Boost controller in question here is the Apexi AVC-R. Today I replaced the auto door lock/interior lights fuse. It had a 15 amp fuse in it and I put the correct 10amp fuse in it. Lights worked ok and clock got reset. I then drove the car tonight and it was losing power when it got into about 0.7 boost (basically once the stock gauge reached about 0.7, the car just lost any power, seemed like the fuel supply had been cut off, kind of juddered a little. I checked the boost controller afterwards and it maxed out at 0.82 bar with 4152 revs. I have had slightly higher boost before, with revs above 5000, so something was definitely not right. Looking at the settings on the boost controller, it was set to OFF and looking at settings for A and B, these seemed to be on the defaults. I think A was on 0.8 bar with 50% duty. And B was on 0.65 bar with xxx% duty. However, I have not had the car long and today was the first time I actually pressed any buttons on the boost controller, so I don't know what its settings were. I believe it was set to run at 1.0 bar though. Is it right that replacing a fuse would reset the boost controller, or does it sound like it might not be wired up correctly. Seems a bit strange to me. :confused: Thanks Colin