scott19

Z1 have recommended these KYB so from comments above i take it thees are a good option? https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspension/kyb/kyb-agx-adjustable-shocks-all-p-126.html They quoted me over 500 dollars each for OEM so fair old price difference here! I dont mind spending a few hundred a corner if need be but didnt want to go to over double that!

Hi, Can someone advise what is best to do for replacement front shocks? The OEM ones are a long wait from Japan (probably even longer with whats going on at the moment!) and I have heard some horror stories about after market ones. I've been quoted 528 dollars each from stock in the US which seems a tad silly. Any suggestions?

Can anyone help, I need some injector plugs ASAP. My car is booked to go on display at a local show and developed a misfire. I have got it in at the garage who has found the plastic injector plugs have gone all green and I need to get some more so I can get the car back going. Ordered at the Z Centre but they have run out of stock. Thanks Scott

just had the new part come in and this is the same, way too long. Absolutely stumped with this, seems my car has shorter arms on than is standard which just doesnt make any sense

Looks like you are correct, unfortunately the one i bought would probably fit a tractor so cant cut it down but OEM measurement is 261mm long, and the ones I have are 276mm long so clearly not the right part to start with. The thing thats confusing thing is that I've got 255mm long ones currently on the car! I've just ordered 261mm so that should be near enough anyway.

This was the one- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-JPL-FRONT-TIE-ROD-AXLE-JOINT-PAIR-48521-71V06-L-NEW-OE-REPLACEMENT/153232317100?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Hi, The Tie Rod or Track Rod as I know them as for my 300 has got a bit of play in it so I bought a replacement off of Ebay. Took the old one off yesterday to change and found the one I had bought was around 25mm too long which has confused me a bit as I would have expected all 300's to use the same size. Mine is a 1991 non turbo. Is anyone able to tell me where I might get the correct one from? Many Thanks

My front left shock is leaking, its still running a stock setup and the car is in every day use. I've just spent a fair bit of money out on Bodywork so no budget left for this little issue! The garage that it was in with (a suspension specialist that was doing a four wheel alignment for me) said that best bet get after market coliovers all round which they could supply and fit at over £500! I have take the car away and said dont worry, I'm not spending that on it thats for sure! Whats the cheapest option along the lines of a fairly stock replacement as I cant seem to find anything listed online for it. I'm not using it for track use or anything like that so not looking to make improvements on handling as such.

Not rushing in any what so ever but I paid up so a pack would be great when you get time

Superb thanks very much. Everyones so helpful on here. Must admit I was a stingy git and didnt join last year because I didnt think I was going to keep the car but I am keeping the car and I am going to join up this year.

Is someone able to supply me with a good link I could buy a new Rad Cap from? Sounds a bit of a no brainer to change this as a starting point to me.

Do you think it is advisable to still brim the after market ones then? Just worry its going to push its way out of a weak point and make it weaker if I keep doing it

That is interesting thanks very much, it is an aluminum after market one which the guy had put on not long before I bought it. Maybe that explains why I have to keep topping it up

Parked mine up for the winter having done around 10,000 miles in it last year and time to sort some niggles ready for when she comes out again in the spring time. I had a Water system issue with the car last year, it was forcing Water out of a little heater pipe join right against the bulk head, right at the top behind the engine. I replaced the hose and the metal joining piece and no more water was coming out of there and I continued to use the car. The car however did still always smell hot after that and did always smell a bit of burning coolant at the end of the journey although the temp goes up and down as it should and always has done. What I found is that the Water level seems to drop if I fill the rad right up until I can see it but then its almost like it possibly finds a level which is out of site when opening the rad but seems to lose alot less if any at all at that point. I'm not sure if I should be filling it right up to the rad or not. I suspect that if the level shouldnt be right to the top of the rad then maybe I have been causing the problem all along by over filling it and then it over pressurises and spits it out of a weak point. Alternatively should I be filling the rad right up in which case the car has got a problem somewhere? Someone did mention something to me during the year about some sort of Water bypass system and said that standard plumbing on the car wasnt good and is a common fault and there is an aftermarket system that is worth changing to. Is this the case?

Fair enough. I'm all sorted now but will reserve judgement for the time being in that case

Thanks for your advice. I've given it to a friend to fix now and just gone on the grounds of sending the third party the bill and hopefully they pay it but if they dont I will just pay for it myself as the car means that much to me. As its mates rates its a 1.5k repair job he is doing for 600 so not great but not the end of the world. He has already started and can repair everything but there is alot to repair as the whole light panel is pushed in which affects the opening of the tail gate. Z Centre didnt get back to me when I enquirered about parts so wont be rushing to give them any of my money in the future.

Yes it was fully insured but whats the book value- next to nothing I would imagine- import, N/A nearly 30 years old. Insurance will just write it off and even if they dont they will list it as a Crash Category that just strips all the value from it. Although its not worth alot on the open market I bought it less than a year ago and have spent alot on it in this year so it stands me in at 5K. Plus my Mum bought it for me a few weeks before she died so sentimental value is priceless. Hence I'm not letting insurance pull it apart. Sorry I hadnt actually seen the car when I posted that yesterday and had it in mind the strip below the lights is a separate piece of trim. Obviously I can now see its an integrated part of the body and so will need to be filled and painted.

Lent mine to someone at the weekend and they got hit up the back at a roundabout. Gutted isnt the word! Guy has admitted fault and there was a number of people witnessed. I dont want to go through insurance as they will just write mine off as I would imagine its more trouble that their worth. Damage isnt too bad but wondered if people could advises as to the best place to get the parts. I ideally need to get a written quote so I can present it to the guy. I need the plastic trim that runs right across the boot lid just above the lights- the bit that open with with boot lid (the bit you pull up on to open the boot lid) Middle Centre Cluster of lights (reverse lights) Possibly rear bumper if the one on it cant be repaired The painted trim that runs right across the back of the car directly under the lights Any help and advise appreciated.

Yep can tell I am new to 300 ownership! I cant work out the Heating/Fan controls on the car at all! I can get air up at the Screen and thats it. I cant work out how you get air to come out the cabin vents? I wouldnt have posted something as silly as this but a mate of mine had a look at the weekend and couldnt work it out either so now I feel less silly!

Thanks GSC, you've got that T-shirt and it suits you lol. Nice to see the wheels on a 300 as well to see how they look. I like polished rims and they seem a very good price for the style. Have you found they clean up all right and hold their shine?

You legend thank you very much! I'm terrible with numbers so its all gone over my head a bit lol. I'm not a massive fan of spacing wheels out so as long as they go straight on and dont look wrong then I'm happy!

Thanks very much guys. These are the exact wheel I have bought. https://www.rtecshop.com/wheel_detail_page.php?chassis=1952&wheel=81590&rear-wheel=15645 If I go to the spacer route at what point do I have to change the studs?

I think I'm too dumb for that! I tried but it just gives me a measurement at the end that doesnt really mean anything to me beyond how far out the wheel sits. I need to know if the wheel clears the caliper

Hi, After recently saying on here I dont want to modify mine in anyway I decided to buy some wheels! The car just looks a tad too narrow from a side on view with the stock ones on so I changed my mind! I've ordered some and then got a phone call from the place I bought them from to say they cant guarantee they will fit and its up to me if I want to take the risk!!! They said they might need spacing. Can you please advise if they will or not. Fronts are 17" x 8J X ET35 Rears are 17" x 9J X ET35 Thanks very much