S13Girly

Hi all. Can anyone tell me the sizes of the stock turbo's used on the Z32 please ie turbine housing and compressor housing Thanks

So take it no one wants to come tonight? Thats such a shame :( Will post up when we have the next one just incase any of you are interested!

London Tunnel Run 9 June 2007 Well thank you too my personal helper - (thanks Alex) - we have the Ace Cafe on the 9th of June, who here can say TUNNEL RUN take 2 So people if ya coming, plonk ya name down, if ya wanna ask questions please do We have the Ace between 6pm and 10pm, we will probably set off for the run approx 9.30pm! Maps will be given out nearer the time and this one is also going to be for charity - watch this space for updated info!!!! So if ya coming let us know - the more the merrier - the last was huge (over 200 tasty Jap cars from over 11 clubs and it was a fantastic night) we are hoping to make this one bigger!!!!!! Really really hope some of you (or all I'm not fussy ;) ) can come :hyper:

Top buy honey well done ;) I have both a Zed and a GTO and they're bopth great cars just with the GTO you get to say you own a super car **hooray** Little more stable in the wett too :)

Really I did not know that........:rolleyes: if your re-read what I wrote you'll see that was pointed out, but thanks for re-writing it for me ;) Thanks again for reitterating my point ;)

Deffinately sound like a mass air flow sensor fault, your car may have gone into service mode when a fault appeared aka 'get you home mode'. Check your flashers, as a quick fix you could wipe the stored faults on the ecu and restart the car this can work on one off faults, otherwise get your bgb and multimetre out and test the maf for faults

Deffo best to get it fitted properly, your original hangers would firstly need cutting/grinding off and secondly would probably not match upto the new zorst because of the dimension changes. So unless you have a welder and some bending gear pay someone else to do it lol!

Cheeky :P Only just washed it then it started raining, so took the pics really really fast lol!! Biggest mod at the mo is manual conversion tbh

What he said ;) You can also get some stop squeak from most motor factions if your concerned at the idea of overtightening a belt, you litteraly spray it straight onto the belt job done

Thanks ;) This my baby, not a huge amount of mods at the moment, just a: * Blitz induction kit * Kakimoto Racing exhaust * Custom decat * Lowered * Alloys * Colour coded rear wing (not sure of origin) * and just a few gauges This is her Mod plans are quite normal really full engine rebuild, possibly forged pistons, lightweight flywheel, stage 4 paddle clutch,740cc injectors, 1.4mhg, knife edge crank, Twin GT28RS's, nitrous 50hp antilag system, custom FMIC withhard pipes, adjustable exhaust silencer, Twin BOV's, either a couple of piggy backs or a replcement management system from Apexi. Only looking for about 500horses as to not 'overly' stress the engine but still be silly quick ;)

Right here goes the short version :tongue: Turbos work by means of expanding HOT gases being forced through them at high pressure causing the spool. Right main word there is HOT Your manifold especially if stainless will transfer some of that HEAT ENERGY to air much in the same way a radiator does, ie as air passes it heat is lost thus COOLING thus energy lost. The more heat energy contained in a gas the futher the expansion, in the case of the inside of a manifold it reads - more heat energy means more expansion of gases = more pressure = better spool. Heat wrap is also used to keep surrounding area's from the heat created by the manifold again especially in the cases of stainless mani's which glow red hot when used well ;) Intercoolers are a completely seperate section of the turbo route puppy. You have one side of the turbo that deals with the expanding gases released from the chambers (exhaust) this passes through the turbine at around 1.5bar plus any boost pressure. This pressure causes the turbine to spin, the air compression side that you are questioning about is the other side of the bearings to this. Although the compression side impeller does sit on a common shaft to the exhaust side the amount of heat transfered between their bodies isn't huge but its aluminium shell aids the cooling well thus temps in the exhaust side is 500+deg or something like that and the air leaving the compression side is only about 100deg if high. Intercoolers are further on from this side (aka the hot side) the cooler is used to lower the charge temp to about 40 deg if good before it enters the plenum and subsequent chambers as high temps will not equal a good volumetric efficiency. This side ie post intercooler is known as the 'cold side' I've tried to make it as simple as poss so everyone understands :) hope it helps I have worked on alot of turbo cars from simple TD's to supra's GTO's etc etc oh and I have my own zed too, anyone wanna see a pic ??

:D you really wouldn't lol!!

That is the logic of it yes but unfortunately the operating temps of a turbo are so high that the very small amount of water that is passed through, often only a half turn of the turbo, provides neglagable cooling effects if any at all really. Also the thing you want for a turbo is 'heat' if heat dispersal was a necessity then why use heat wrap?? thermal efficiencey.

As said before blue smoke is also very much a common sign of turbo seal failure. I also mentioned that he should be able to smell the difference. I have sent of my fair share of tubbies for recon too buddy ;) and Im sure non of the many you sent off have had normal symptoms of blue smoe on decelleration, squealing on boost, rattling sound/vibration, or inability to make boost which for all other cars are common faults.... All turbo's have the down point of seals. Bypassing water channels is quite common in most tuning circles and while I respect your knowledge given the amount of posts you have made we will have to disagree on this point as I have removed/blocked many waterlines and not had any adverse effects, not to mention most large chargers while not cpnatining vastly larger oil channels do not have the addition of water cooling simply as it is not efficient

The race is on :D

Really?? I'm shocked. I've fitted a few and never had that experience?? With an s13 at stage 2 (which really isn't as amazing as it sounds) the GT28RS was making 1.4bar at just over 3k as appose to the stock turbo's performance of 1bar. The acceleration and sheer drive of the engine was amazing, maybe your girls setup wasn't right or the engine wasn't in top condition. Thanks for the link Cj :) I'm not looking for silly figures out of the Zed 500hp should suffice initially. Lag is a major concern obviously but nitrous can sort that I want to keep the extremes though of a fast spool with the turbo being large enough to carry the charge right to the line without drop off.

Thanks for the reply and WOW thats a big sig lol Parts aren't to much worry and manifolds I can weld up happily, just need a little vehicle specific knowledge. Cars are cars but specific vehicles perform better with certain parts more so than other engines would so need alittle insider info ;) 16g's do seem to be the favourite on here though I would've thought them to be little laggy?

Not looking like a quick fix for you buddy :(

Does it leave a wett patch under the car?? Do your heaters still work?? Are you sure tis water you can hear?

Unburnt oil ie after the combustion stage can well be white though by far more common cause of white smoke is water. Though blue smoke, oil through the seals, is also a well known pointer for turbo failure Turbo's can be run fine without the kettling effect of the water channels, think on this one we'll have to agree to disagree ;)

Love the re-write on the nissan page LOL You managed to get the heads removed with the block still in?

Oil catch tanks normally sit within the PCV system. You should be able to find a vacuum line that runs fromt eh rocker heads to the inlet (before turbo) tract put it in between there. Oil catch tanks are to catch the oil that is passed through the PCV system of the engine and stop it entering the combustion chamber thus causing smoke. It is simply a tank with two pipes withihn the body each sits far above the base so that falling oil can be caught at the bottom while the vapour can be allowed to pass into the upper engine aiding lubrication and some say combustion.

A replacement ECU alike the Apexi would be the best bet, I can't think of anyone that actually does one for the liners. if he's just looking to keep the cost down then an Apexi SAFC and if he's really going for it an ITC will be the best

White smoke is 99% of the time going to be water getting into the exhaust system either through the tubbys or directly into the combustion chambers through the headgasket. have a quick smell and you'll be able to tell if it smells wet. First thing to do is check our oil cap for signs of water having entered into the oil, it looks like a mayonase consistancey and colour gunge. Have a smell of your coolant, you get quite an acridy smell if combustion/exhaust has got into the coolant, it will also look quite brown As Dipone said a compression test should find you the problem pretty quick, though if you have the time and equipment a leakdown is better. If the headgasket is the culprit then I suggest when you have it changed go for some metal ones as these will last till dooms day ;) If its not the headgasket then it will be the turbo's unfortunately which is going to be an engine out job to fix. However you may be able to get away with cutting off the water supply to the turbo's by way of blocking/removing the lines which pass the water to the turbo body. The water that is passed through the turbo pretty much doesn't do anything anyway so won't be missed and it will sort the water problem fast and cheap. Hope that helps ;)

Just thought I'd pop in as I just got my new Zed and aska quick question :) My plan is to use the GT28RS turbo's for my build for obvious reasons of power ability and lower than stock spool time, also they are more than adequate to hold boost right to the redline without any real drop off. Now obviously there are a variety of supporting modifications within my plans too however looking through the site I have notice the TD05's are quite a favourite and was wondering if anyone would be able to give me a running comparrison of the two charger. Many thanks xx