Thomas

Get yourself a volt-ohm meter and a thermometer to check the resistance out at the reference temperatures in the repair manual. I have checked a few out ... but have yet to find one that was out of spec though. Usually it is the corrosion on the connection. This is a common problem with 300ZX cars. Best of Luck, Thomas Shafovaloff Winter Park, Florida

It is a job to take the dash out so take your time. I spent at least an afternoon and the next day replaced the heater core and valve. The valve is what was leaking. I recommend planning a day if you have never removed the dash before because of the old plastic and number of screws needing removal. Also, since you will probably remove the hoses at the firewall just buy them now as it will make the job much quicker. In the mean time just do the bypass .... that coolant doesn't need to be in the car and you don't need to be inhaling the steam from it. When animals drink it it kills them causing kidney and other organ failure. Tom S.

First switch out the window amplifier - a small white box fitted under the panel of the drivers door. If you don't have a spare you can use a meter to determine that power is going to the window (from the window amplifier) - look at the maintenance manual diagrams or just actuate the switch with the meter hooked up. If there is no power then most likely it is the window amplifier if it is not a gear problem in the electric motor housing. (There is a plastic gear in the housing for the motor which is why when you buy the replacement from a discount house they want the old one.) Switching out the motor for the window will require moving or removing the panel to the door, the speaker and loosening 3 phillips head screws. If the window is stuck in the up position you can move the panel away from the door without taking it completely off an have enough access room to remove and replace the motor. On the base of the motor there is a phillips head screw that you might try loosening and then apply power to the motor to try and lower it if you feel that you need to take the panel completely off the door. You will need a 1/4 inch drive small ratchet with a phillips drive to get the screws holding the motor loosened. Once the screws are removed you have to pry the rack that the window moves on away from the inside of the door about 3/4 '' to work the motor gear that engages the rack gear out of the door. Unfortunately the metal inside the door is sharp so be careful not to cut yourself. Installation is the reverse. It will probably take a morning to complete the job but you will need the small ratchet and phillips drive because there is not much room. I suggest you go to a discount house to see what the motor looks like and if they have one what the rack the window moves on looks like before you start. 1. Do the electrical check to make sure it is not the window amplifier. 2. Have a look at the motor and rack at a discount house if it is not the amplifier. 3. Then loosen the door panel. You will have to pull it up from the front of the door to get the seal free and you do not have to pull the panel completely off the door. 4. Take the speaker out disconnect the motor wire connection. 5. Reach into the door with the small ratchet with the phillips drive and loosen the three screws. 6. Pry the rack toward the outside of the door to work the motor out of the door. 7. Pry the rack toward to outside of the door to work the new motor in and replace the 3 screws. 8. Connect the electrical connections and make sure it operates. 9. Move the window to the down position and reinstall the panel etc. 10. Remember the metal is sharp in the door and have patience removing the screws. Best of Luck, Thomas Shafovaloff Winter Park, Florida P.S. Check out twinturbo.net over here - and search for more advice. 4.