Dave53

ME! I live opposite the Pug garage, behind that industrial estate. Dave

Heading Anticlockwise this morning, at about 8am- maybe as late as 8:30am... I can't remember! Looking good!

I'm not certain about this deal - but a deal I organised in the past went on to give you a further £10 off for being under 25. Ie, 85 -> 75 for club discount, then 75 -> 65 for being under 25 aswell. Dave

It looks a little different to the instrument bulbs - very very flat base with a screw driver slot - instead of the more raised square base of the instrument bulbs. The bulb has a blue sleeve over it and it is directly underneath the "up" part of the drivers window switch. The base looks like this one, but it has a 'normal' bulb, and the 'normal' contact to the PCB... http://lombartstore.com/store/images/nw2bulb.gif Dave

Mines a 92 Jap - defo has a bulb... albeit blown! Dave

My Dad's got a Jap import 350z Roadster... Fantastic car. Not really comparable to a 300zx. My 300zx is a brutal beast - the acceleration and handling are akin to driving a race prepped car. The 350, whilst still a rocket, is more refined, quieter and smoother. Both fantastic cars, but quite quite different. Dave

No.

Comet is Hella... If you search "Hella 550" on ebay - there's several sets, all from US, but some of them ship worldwide. Dave

and, without looking like i'm talking to myself.... Presumably, the rules have changed since that bloke passed his IAM test two weeks after his 17th, because to take the test now you must have held a UK/EU driving licence for minimum of three months.

Regarding the group buy; The IAM offer discounts for affiliation with motoring clubs and organisations. I am sure they will provide a discount in exchange for a link on this site, or a column in the magazine (if there is a magazine?!) Phil.Scordellis@iam.org.uk is the guy to speak to - I organised a club affiliation deal with him. Dave

You don't have to retake IAM every three years. You can choose to have a refresher course when ever you like though. ROSPA Advanced Driver Training (which is even more thorough than the IAM) requires a retake every 3 years. Dave

I'd tend to disagree with the statement above... Agreed, bad habits are hard to lose... but the 'normal' driver training covers nothing like the same level of observation skill, understanding the dynamics of your car etc etc. I think its just as hard for any driver, new or experienced, but perhaps the challenges are different. As for insurance discounts - I have had 25-30% from Elephant and now the Zed is on a classic policy i get nearer to 50% Dave

Cost of text book will be recovered on first insurance renewal! There literally is no financial cost involved, a few hours need setting aside, but theres things worse than taking the Z out for a few hours each week! :) You quite simply don't realise what a bad driver you are until you do the training - it should be compulsary.

I'm another avid supporter of the IAM - best thing I ever did. Did a refresher with them after 5 years too - well worth it. I use Millbrook a lot for work - it's a good facility, but pretty pricey due to it being one of the best test facilities in the world... not a problem for a large manufacturer but a little unreasonable for individuals/clubs I suspect. Go down market a bit and there is still some nice places. Chobham Proving ground near where the A3 intersects the M25 is also very good, and I suspect much cheaper. However, I have no idea what they offer in a non-proffessional sense. Dave

O-Series was only fitted in VERY early sterlings - it was carbuerreted rather than injected - so was really only fitted for less than a year at the start of prod. btw - the O-Series is a superb torquey engine, love it in my MG Maestro (awaiting abuse...) The sterling/800 range used the M-Series 2.0 16V DOHC engine, which was then replaced by the T-Series 2.0 16v DOHC with optional Garret T3. The pre '97 V6 sterlings used the Honda Legend 24v V6 (lovely engine) and then post '97 the Rover KV6... yuk! bring on the HGF.

Just read the posts above... There's nothing wrong with the parts (including the HG) - it's purely a design cock up. The K-Series was developed in 1.1L format for use in the Metro. The profile of such a car demands a fast heat up time - so they blindly put the thermostat on the wrong side of the cooling circuit - means the engine gets to operating temp quicker (better economy stats etc helps small car sales). However, in that layout, you are effectively regulating the temp of the rad, rather than the temp of the engine... Not such a problem with a fwd mounted small low power engine - Metro's suffer very few HGF's relative to the other cars. The 1.4, 1.8 and 2.5V6 used in the larger cars carried this 'wrong' thermostat location into the design - but now heat up faster and require much better cooling due to increased power output... The rear engine cars really suffer the worst because of the large cold coolant capacity of the pipe work to the rad... read the website for a proper explanation. Classic support of this theory is the very low HGF failure rate of the MGF Cup Car - tuned engines and thrashed about... very few failures... why? because the thermostat is removed for the race spec engines to allow better cooling at the expense of warm up times. Dave

I used to have an MGF. All K-Series suffer in a similar way.... However, there is a solution. The KV6 also suffers in a similar way. Check out my website - read it carefully and when you understand Rover's mistake it's easy to rectify... The output from my dataloggers shows the solution works. www.mgfmavhh.ukf.net Dave

Jap N/A Manual '92. Does anyone have a circuit diag of the starter circuit. ie. is there a starter relay? Where can I cut the starter feed for my immobiliser - I don't fancy cutting at the ignition barrel - the Black/Yellow wire is huuuge compared to the puny immobiliser loop - (Toad AI606). I'd rather inturrupt the relay - but i can't find it!!! Dave

It could have been me.... if it was about 11.50am (ish). I came off the M1 at donny park at about noon. (Red N/A T-Top Import.) Dave

Help required! I need a new A/C condenser... but there's lots of conflicting info on the web... I've got a 1992 (November built) N/A Manual Jap Import. There's two different part number crop up on the net, and my nissan dealer (who I don't trust!) has given me a third one.... Can anyone help? What part number do I need. (The item is warranty covered so I want a new one! - which appears to mean it must come from nissan) Dave

I live right in Chichester... Im just on the inside of the ring road at the Bognor roundabout - in the housing estate opposite the Peugeot Garage. From now on, I will also always park in that spot too, on the off chance you happen to be at tesco!

It wasn't me... but... Occassionally I have seen a yellow Zed around Chichester... are you the yellow zed I chased up terminus road into Tesco (in Chichester) a few weeks ago - I don't think you saw me - but you parked against the trees/hedge on the Petrol Station end of the Carpark. And as for the Silver Zed, presumably thats going to be the Jap Import I see parked on Pound Farm Lane in the centre of Chichester? (I'm local too, but in a Red N/A Jap Import) Dave.

I know the second owner!

Mine arrived on the 11/10/2006 so about 4 weeks ago now - obviously im the first uk owner. It was built in October 92, so just under 14 years in Japan - owned by 2 people during that time. Dave

Thanks. 700rpm seem reasonable.... how? Is the sytem adjusted by mechanical endstop somewhere or potentiometer somewhere?... Dave