NewKleer

http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx 3/4 down the page

its ok if you dont get a dead one (they dont test those chinese ones at manufacturer), and have a laptop with a serial port - otherwise once you add another £15 for FTDI usb/serial converter, and factor in how annoying the 'box' style is 'sticking out' into your knee is, you maybe should have just bought a proper USB one from Jez (h-dev) for £50 for free software, ecutalk and obd scantech should have you covered. then if you want more theres nissan datascan, conzult (DTA), nistune, etc.

ecutalk + obd scantech (both free) have 95% of what datascan has (in the case of ecutalk, it has the fuel economy/trip meter sensors that datascan doesnt, and logs at ~3 times the rate that datascan can). best to buy the ecutalk/blazt/plms cable, and then if you find ecutalk/obd scantech inadequate, spend more money then. no use wasting it straight off the bat if you dont need to. i bought a copy of datascan, but hardly use it myself (though thats probably cause ive got an ecutalk LCD display...).

lots of people have tried them, those lucky to get one working (majority do, just they dont test at manufacturer, so some are dead on arrival) quickly find out that no laptop built in last few years has a serial port, and might waste a few dollars on a cheap usb/serial converter only to find that it bluescreens their laptop randomly. so someone in the know tells them to get a FTDI based usb/serial converter (which cost a fair bit more), and once theyve done that and got it all working, realise for a few extra £ they could have got an ecutalk/blazt/plms usb consult cable and saved themselves a lot of time.

if its not fitted then it may not warm up sufficiently, and because its not sensing exhaust gas it will probably just read 0v anyway if it did warm up. i wouldnt be too worried if u bought the o2 sensor as new, it should work

dont trial and error installing it, just trial and error disconnecting both, one at a time, and doing the test and see which one is no different when you do it (meaning the one u disconnected is the one that wasnt working before...whereas if u disconnect the good one and both dont work, then u know its the good one u disconnected?)

copy paste the consult log contents and stick them in code tags and post them in the thread.

most people get them to work, mine started smoking and blew a capacitor when i turned it on (but must have been a fault capacitor cause it was soldered in the right way). would have been cheaper ($30euro posted) to get a better quality cable from here: http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx there is also links to free software on that page ^ obd scantech is pretty good for a complete package, ecutalk is good for the gauges/logging if u dont need the rest, esp the trip meter/economy sensors.

the majority do work in vista a serial laptop is a laptop with a serial port. a serial port has 2 rows of pins, 9 pins (its male on the laptop). not to be confused with the blue 15 pin 3 row VGA connector. most laptops made in last few years dont have a serial port.

really u can do all u need with the free programs. ecutalk for gauges/logging/fauts (esp as it has economy gauges that other sw doesnt), tecu has active tests (see if it works for you). calumsult has rom dumping, free conzult has the base idle test thing

sure can - you can get a better quality ecutalk cable (SMD circuit board inside the connector) for around ~27GBP ($55AU) which includes postage. probably ends up cheaper than making it yourself even (especially if u want the proper consult connector). no exposed electronics or 3 different cables/adaptors to make it work. plus i dont know how much the ebay guy knows about the cables given he's put a screenshot of PCMSCAN on the ad (this is OBDII software, not nissan consult software).

it could be the timeouts or similar used in the programs. try the free version of conzult also

http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd.aspx out of stock for the time being, but works for any nissans that support consult via the grey 14 pin consult port shows 'trip meter' sensors like MPG, distance, fuel used, etc

theres cheap blazt.biz serial cables on ebay at the moment: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180281673886&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008 and there is heaps of free consult software...obd scantech nissan, ecutalk, calumsult, tecu, etc.

yes cygnal and ftdi are two seperate, incompatible chips. i think blazt are finally using ftdi chips (which are better, particularly drivers).

u might be able to find a techtom cmx-100, it will only display 1 thing at a time, but its smaller if thats what you're after. but its around same price (around $200US) theres also a "nissdatascan" display similar to one above, but its $275US from memory but neither have fault codes, time trials, economy readings, etc. i doubt youll find what you're after for anything cheaper than that, unless you buy 6x$10 multimeters and tape them to the dash :) the above 3 units are plug and play into diagnostic port, no wiring btw.

forgot to add, webpage here: http://www.ecutalk.com/consultlcd.aspx price of the first batch was around $200US, i imagine similar or a touch more for version 2, which will be 20x4 display and a bit more compact

guess you're looking for something like this? on 300zx it will display all the data you mentioned (ie L/R o2...screenshot is from n14 pulsar). version 2 of display will be out in a few months hopefully

0.3v (or "30" for nissan datascan) or there abouts on an O2 sensor = dead o2 sensor. dont bother checking the wiring, just replace sensor.

can u post a pic of the usb/serial converter? (or type out the name/model/etc whatever is written on it) might be able to track down drivers online. once youve installed the drivers, it will "create" a COM port whenever its plugged in (you need to check out port number in device manager...control panel->system->hardware->device manager and expand ports). you wont need the cd after that. then its a matter of getting some consult software if you havent (eg http://www.ecutalk.com), and making sure u connect to the COM port thats setup for your usb/serial adaptor, often it will be COM4 for usb/serial (COM1 for normal onboard serial ports)

have u tried the cable on a laptop just to confirm the cable and the car work fine with consult? also try v1.2 - other guy said this worked best. i think itd be com1 also

ive had one user report random problems with spv m2000 with latest version :( hopefully it was something specific to their setup...if u do have problems, try all older versions on the website (i think he said v1.2 worked ok).

i dont think the 1940 does either - it has bluetooth (and hence the serial over bluetooth), but i dont think it has the standard serial port

also check the tps on/off switch - ive seen a 300zx with its timing jumping aroudn by 15-30 degrees because of a dodgy tps on/off switch. this can be monitored with consult also (but try manally holding throttle fully closed and a tiny bit open that doesnt explain though why itd run so dodgy with throttle opened a tiny bit (could be AAC/IACV or something else like that)

but not a 1900 series as they dont have consult port (cant edit post)