steve jw

Hi all, Ive got a 89 spec import TT and the autobox is making a whirring noise at idle and has just started squeeking like a metal upon metal sound in drive and it also vibrates over 40 mph and slips under full power most of the time. Im fearing the worst on this one(new box needed).Fluid level is fine. When the gearbox is in drive and i take my foot off the accelerator it seems to disengage the clutch so to speak and the revs drop to idle,but in gear 2 when i take my foot off the accelerator at speed it doesnt disengage but slows down with the engine braking it....is this normal.. If my autobox has indeed died does anyone know of a good condition second hand one for sale in the south east area...cheers Steve.....

Hi all, iv'e got an auto tt and the gearbox is slow on the upchange and sometimes wont change up at all.Its definately a sensor or a/t ecu problem. I replaced the TPS and set it up correctly and made sure i was getting 0.45v closed throttle and 4.0v wide open throttle which it was at the plug harness where the TPS plugs in.However when i test the voltage accross terminals 34 and ground on the a/t ecu i only get 0.35v closed throttle and 2.9v wide open throttle.Now if i cut the wire that goes to terminal 34 just before the ecu connector and test the voltage it is correct,as soon as i re-connect the wire i lose some of the voltage.I thoroughly checked the pins on the connector and there is good continuity,and all the wiring from ecu to TPS is fine.So i suspect the ecu may be at fault?..Does anybody know for sure that the voltage at terminal 34 is the same as at the TPS plug 0.45v - 4.0v or is it supposed to lose some voltage through the ecu as mine does. Cheers guys hope i'm not getting to technical and boring you all Steve.....

Hi all, Iv'e got a problem with my 90 auto TT...When i accelerate wide open throttle the auto box doesn't attempt to change up until 7500 rpm and isn't able to complete the shift.It drops back to 7000 rpm then revs to 7500 rpm and tries to upshift again in a continuous cycle,sometimes it can manage to upshift sometimes not.This happens 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd but is ok 3rd to 4th..It shifts fine during normal driving..i did notice the previous owner has overfilled the gearbox oil..anyone got any ideas cheers....steve

Hi, Does anyone know why the red light on the dash that has a picture of a hot exhaust on it lights up when im driving it hard...obviously its getting too hot and warning me.. The car smells of overheated rubber hose also and sometimes puffs steam from under bonnet although the temp gauge is at halfway(crap stock gauge i know)..It just seems to be hotter than i would expect under the bonnet.. Its only running stock boost too.. Ive only had the car for a fortnight and its the first Z ive owned and dont want to damage it before i can enjoy it Thanks for your help....steve

Hi, Does anyone know what sort of boost pressure the stock ecu is mapped to cope with..is a chip essential if i wanted to run about 11 psi.. Cheers....steve

Thanks...Iv'e just re-connected the resistor properly took car out and it's finally out of safety boost with 12v at solenoids all the time..hooray!! Trouble is the boost has only gone up to 7 psi. Anyone got any ideas...boost leak!...weak wastegate actuator!... Cheers for your help...steve

Yes cheers good point... Does anybody know of any other reason that the ecu will run in safety boost when its showing no fault codes,signal from temp sensor ok and its not detonating and car runs well otherwise... Thanks....steve

yes it comes up code 55 all ok.. Just thinking a 1 megohm resistor is double the resistance ive got in there now so it will give me lower than 1.95 volts ive got at the moment.. Maybe something wrong with wiring then.. thanks...steve

Hi everyone, Iv'e only had my Z a week or so and am trying to get it running properly.. At the moment it is running in safety boost,i know this as i connected a voltmeter to the wastegate solenoids and the ecu cuts the supply to them on full throttle leaving me with 5-6 psi.. I checked the water temp sensor circuit and replaced the sensor so thats ok.. When i came to look at the det. sensor i noticed i didn't even have one and the wiring harness connector had a resistor wedged in there instead.. I understand that this was probably done to override the sensor.. I tested the resistance of the resistor and it was about half a megohm or 500,000 ohms.. I then did a live volt check from the det.sensor circuit to the ecu and it was 1.95 volts and the manual says it should be about 2.5 volts.. Does anyone know if that is the correct resistor rating and if 1.95 volts i'm getting at the moment is ok..I just want to get it running ok before i replace det. sensor properly.. p.s funny thing is the guy i bought it off has a receipt from S.E nissan for a new det sensor fitted 3 years ago???

Hi all, Got a bit of a problem with my zed..The ecu is showing code 13 water temp. sensor..Iv'e checked out continuity of wiring and resistance of sensor and its all ok..Thing is iv'e noticed there seems to be a problem with the coolant flow..the top coolant hose gets red hot whilst the bottom one gets warm..the temp gauge stays about central on the scale..it seems as if the water is not circulating from the engine to the rad,could this be the thermostat not opening or the water pump not flowing properly..How can i test these out easily..The car is also running in safety boost, does the ecu do this when the coolant gets too hot...Cheers guys...steve

Thanks andy...i haven't a clue how to get pictures onto the computer i'll have to get the missus to show me...i'll try and describe the set up...the dump valves are chrome and sit on a cast alloy pipe shaped like a Y with orange/red hose connectors i think there called sequential something or other...the place i noticed the open ended vacuum pipes with no rubber hose on them was right under the boost pipe near where it goes into the intercooler,one of them is metal and quite long,the other is white plastic?..maybe i should try blocking these off...cheers...steve

I've noticed that the 2 boost hoses that attach to the throttle bodies near the intercooler end of the hose and directly underneath it there is a pipe that possibly should have a vacuum hose attached to it but mine is just the open ended pipe.The dump valves were replaced by the previous owner for aftermarket ones on an alloy pipe,does it matter that these pipes are not blocked off....cheers guys....steve

yeah i used aftermarket gauge connected to the crossover rail between the two plenums,hope thats right place to connect it...cheers ...steve

thanks guys, I'm in maidstone Paul not too far from you.. I did check the solenoids well the passenger side at least and they seem to be connected up ok.. Dont know if this has anything to do with it but there is a couple of solenoid looking things that have some boost/vacuum hoses that are disconnected and one of them has a bolt screwed in it to block it off..The solenoids are at the far left hand back corner as you look in the engine bay..cheers...steve

hi ,could you tell me where the temp connector is sorry im new to this model...thanks