tpv01

it is not the plug on the rad i am talking about but the drain plugs on the engine block so whatever is held in there after rad drained can be emptied, but by the sounds of it it is more trouble than it is worth. However, in the owners manual it does say anything about removing any components it just shows a pic where it appears to be close to the oil filter. UNO's idea sounds good though but im not sure if i totally understand it. Running the engine with the rad cap of will make water pour from the top neck all over the engine bay so do you suggest attaching a hose to that neck to direct the water into a bucket? if so where do you drip the continuous stream of water in?

Doing my coolant change and cant find the drain bolt on the engine. I know i can just use the bottom rad hose but want to do a full wash out. I have looked in the manual and cant figure out what it is pointing to can someone put up a picture pointing it out for me or describe it in the minutest of detail.

i have found $319 here.... http://www.czp.us/Cart/description.php?II=288&Car_Type=300&UID= but i also found it for alot more than the one you quoted. It is amazing how much differences there is in price in the states where everything is always about the same in this country. does anyone know from any similar experiences what the hit for shipping and tax would be? aparently it weighs 25lb = 11kg.

Does it work out cheaper to get one from the states and pay the shipping and tax on it or from a uk dealer. What would be a good price for one first hand for a uk manual turbo?

Please email me on tpv01@ic.ac.uk regarding one of the items you have for sale. cant PM or reply on that thread as not yet a full member. Ta Tom

thanks Hellraiser. even better that its from a fellow bournemouth boy. whereabouts are you in bmth? Anyway i still dont get it as i dont seem to have the handle like loop that is in your third picture. is it attached to the floor of your boot?

Hi Royal or some who can pm this to him, Im interested in your wheels that you have advertised in the items for sale section. I still havent paid my fees (soon i promise.....) so cant reply on that thread or PM you. could you send me and email on tpv01@ic.ac.uk so we can discuss it. Thanks Tom

It was deattached when i bought it and i cant figure out how to refit it?? I can see where the two blank bolts (best way i can think of describing them?!?) fit into the holders in the rear of the boot but i cant figure out where the front part attaches to and how. The owners manual is no help.

I will try the descaling flush next time i get the chance. From doing a google i think the stuff markzx is talking about is called Fernox (http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/93-187) and can be bought from screwfix direct. Can any comercial descaler be used, like the stuff you can put in your kettle or is then a product specially made for car rads? Hopefully the descale and a good flush out (the empty of the radiator and expansion tank i did last weekend flushed out some horrible browny-blue water with bits of leaves floating around in it!!!) and top up with some Water Wetter will hopefully sort out my temp rise during idle problem. I do have an after market SPA water temp gauge which measures from the top hose from the rad i think. Dont take much notice of stock gauge as it is either always at the bottom when started up or in the middle the rest of the time. My car is UK manual so shouldnt have the problems with the gearbox oil cooler flow. NZ i am interested in the mods you have done too so keep us updated. What does the Ostrich do? Also, the thing i was wondering about with the original function of the sub fan being retained is the path of the current from two sources (relay and ECU) causing shorting out of the fan, relay or even ECU. Would diodes need to be installed to prevent current flowing the wrong way?

yeah the viscous fan is working and doesnt spin freely when pushed and does change speed with higher revs. Does everyone experience rises temperature during idle? NZ have you done the mod DAB1 has done in the follow thread..... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=72665&highlight=fan+switch ? If so, does the fans original purpose, ie to kick in when the temperature exceeds 105C, still happen or is it now disabled?

thats what i was hoping to hear! do all TT's heat up on idle without the additional air flow when moving because I have been quite worried I had a problem. I was sitting in traffic for a long time on Friday and my temperature went up to +100C due to sitting on idle and the temperature creeping up about 0.1C every second. What do people do when that happens? I know the sub fan is meant to kick in a 105C but is that adequate to stop the temperature going even higher?

how much do you let your engine/turbos cool down before you turn the engine off? what is your prefered method off cooling down? idling (if so how long do you leave it)? taking it easy for last part of journey not using boost? any other methods?

coolant overflow?? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Topping up my rad after a flush through and it started dripping from the bottom. I thought, "oh nut satchells I havent connected the bottom hose properly" so undid the under tray and it wasnt leaking from their but seems to be flowing through the top pipe on the filler neck (i know this to be true as i disconnected it at the top) and onto the floor. I thought this would of flowed into the expansion tank/refill tank so checked that out by taking off the seal around the passenger side wheel and it was well over the H mark so I was thinking that the expansion tank must have an overflow on it that wees out onto the under tray. Is this correct of do I have a problem? Also is there a drain on the expansion tank and how do i get to it so i can drain that aswell and replace with new fluid?

Doing my coolant change and cant find the drain bolt on the engine. \iknow i can just use the bottom rad hose but want to do a full wash out. can someone put up a picture pointing it out for me please, pretty please!!

having hot running problems (water temperature >80C normal running, rising to 90C+ during idle). Checked my oil cooler afer a medium long journey with water temp reaching normal temperature and it was stone cold steve austin. I guess that would indicate no oil flow through the cooler i.e. a blockage somewhere. The actual cooler block looks in good nick, stainless steel possibly even a retrofit with nissan markings. How would i go about checking and clearing the possible blockage. Hopefully i have identified the oil cooler correctly. it sits infront of the a/c condensor which sits infront of the radiator looking from the engine. It is a about 6" high and about 2" thick. Infront of this is the smaller single pipe finned HICAS fluid cooler. Any guidance on this would be much appreciated. ta tom