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I am swapping my TT diff/subframe for a N/A one for the lower ratio and dumping the Hicas (obviously).

  • Author

ok so many people are doing this but is that much quicker from start. and also gives you a chance to do the brake pipes and have a good sort out but all that work and protential for things to go wrong but for how much gain?

ok so many people are doing this but is that much quicker from start. and also gives you a chance to do the brake pipes and have a good sort out but all that work and protential for things to go wrong but for how much gain?

 

I would'nt say its a common upgrade, I've done it and a couple of others but thats about it in the UK. Its a little more popular in the states, although most of them are becuase of people converting their NA's to TT, rather than swapping rear ends.

 

On a Manual equipped car the acceleration difference is very noticable. 1st gear is over very quickly and you'll need a lot of traction to make use of it.

 

I've seen test results in the U.S showing a measured 0.5 secs drop in 0-60 and a similar drop in the 1/4 mile.

 

Top speed it restricted to around 165mph, but it will get there quicker.

 

Downsides are a drop in MPG and engine revving higher on motorway ofcourse.

 

Its a big job, but its a good time to polybush the subframe, diff and arms.

  • Author

m?aybe i shall ask in a different thread who has converted and what was the reason faluty componants or just faster of the line.

I've converted

Zmaster has converted

 

Topless has a NA Convertible converted to a TT, so still has NA rear.

Paul@swz has a NA Convertible converted to a TT, so still has NA rear

 

I think thats it for the UK, but there may be 1 or 2 others that have converted and never said.

Edited by Yowser

how much weight do you lose? I'm trying to lose a lot out of the back end so it weighs the same or less with my sound system in

how much weight do you lose? I'm trying to lose a lot out of the back end so it weighs the same or less with my sound system in

 

30-40kg , but the zed is too front heavy anyway.

  • Author
I've converted

Zmaster has converted

 

Topless has a NA Convertible converted to a TT, so still has NA rear.

Paul@swz has a NA Convertible converted to a TT, so still has NA rear

 

I think thats it for the UK, but there may be 1 or 2 others that have converted and never said.

 

OK but when your running a ebc and bigger tubs then isnt it a problem trying to get the power done. i dont mind doing it but if my rear end is going to be scerming all over the place then i think i ll leave alone but if not then ill conseder . how much power or what mods are all these converted ones have?

also change the rear subframe and diff for an NA

 

yeah, i remember hearing something about gear ratios in the NA vs the TT.

 

Whats the difference?

OK but when your running a ebc and bigger tubs then isnt it a problem trying to get the power done. i dont mind doing it but if my rear end is going to be scerming all over the place then i think i ll leave alone but if not then ill conseder . how much power or what mods are all these converted ones have?

 

Yes, traction becomes more of an issue, just like when increasing power...but thats where proper alignment, good suspension and quality tyres come into play.

yeah, i remember hearing something about gear ratios in the NA vs the TT.

 

Whats the difference?

 

Final drive (diff) ratio is 3.69 (TT) vs 4.08 (NA).

Gearbox ratios are the same.

yer but what about top end dont want to drive to london with car reving over 4ooo revs

Its the same as driving as NA zed in that respect.

 

at 80mph in 5th with TT ratio the rpm is 3100rpm

at 80mph in 5th with NA ratio the rpm is 3400rpm

 

So there is a Motorway MPG loss.

 

Its not for everybody, very few have done it, if you do a lot of motorway travelling then there is some sacrifice. Its a modification designed to improve response and acceleration. My car is destined for a lot of Track work, so its a real benefit for me.

Edited by Yowser

Is the NA rear diff as strong as the TT diff??

 

Does this method work out cheaper than say fitting the Leader gear kit to the TT diff which creates the same final drive ratio?

 

All food for thought!

Is the NA rear diff as strong as the TT diff??

 

Does this method work out cheaper than say fitting the Leader gear kit to the TT diff which creates the same final drive ratio?

 

All food for thought!

 

Strong yes....as strong No. Have seen NA diffs or driveshafts damaged in the states....but your talking 600 horses, with slicks doing drag launches.

 

It is cheaper than the leader gear kit, yes. Leader gears gears cost just as much for the fitting (if not more) from a gearbox specialist as they cost to purchase as well.

  • Author
Is the NA rear diff as strong as the TT diff??

 

Does this method work out cheaper than say fitting the Leader gear kit to the TT diff which creates the same final drive ratio?

 

All food for thought!

What dose this mean?

What dose this mean?

 

you can buy a 4.1 gear ratio kit for the TT rear diff from a company called "leader gears".

  • Author

tell me truely no messing is it worth me doing or not in your apinion . ok you said your going to have trouble putting the power down ie lets just say you now have 500 bph you have still to learn how to put thr power down oh and yes can you stillinstall traction controll at this point

  • Author
you can buy a 4.1 gear ratio kit for the TT rear diff from a company called "leader gears".

i think its a lot of work and money only to put back the gear conversion,and my car seats ond fills so tight i think ill wait untill i have to?

i think its a lot of work and money only to put back the gear conversion,and my car seats ond fills so tight i think ill wait untill i have to?

 

It's a cheap way of improving acceleration, both methods basically change the gearing making each gear seem like its shorter but unless you have your suspension set up correctly for your alloy size and good tyres - you could make the back end squirm with 150bhp tbh.

 

You can still install traction control, which is a good idea as the race logic from what i read is not the same as production in it's restriction and provides power deliverly the normal joe wouldn't be able to do by feathering the throttle.

 

HTH

  • Author
It's a cheap way of improving acceleration, both methods basically change the gearing making each gear seem like its shorter but unless you have your suspension set up correctly for your alloy size and good tyres - you could make the back end squirm with 150bhp tbh.

 

You can still install traction control, which is a good idea as the race logic from what i read is not the same as production in it's restriction and provides power deliverly the normal joe wouldn't be able to do by feathering the throttle.

 

HTH

yer but with bigger tubs and a ebc and short shift stick do i need it the gear change to to be any shorter?

It's not about shortening the physical gear change (ie, time it takes to throw it from one gear to the next), upgrading to 4.1 Leader gears in your diff changes the point at which the gearbox needs to change gears. Generally speaking, torque (ie pulling power) levels off the higher in the rev range you are. If you change gears at say 6500 rpm verses 6700 rpm then you'll have more torque available more quickly (if you catch my drift). If you are not into tracking your car or doing a lot of drag racing then perhaps Leader gears is not for you. If you wish your car to be more responsive to accelleration then by all means upgrade. Traction control can be added regardless of what diff gears you're running as it modulates the injector pulses and not the drive train. Incidentally, you may require a different chip in the ECU to make the most of the changes that the Leader gears make.

 

On a side note, we [DTA-Motorsport (UK)] are resellers of Leader Gears as well as official distributors of RaceLogic traction control systems. ;)

 

HTH

 

Dan

It's not about shortening the physical gear change (ie, time it takes to throw it from one gear to the next), upgrading to 4.1 Leader gears in your diff changes the point at which the gearbox needs to change gears. Generally speaking, torque (ie pulling power) levels off the higher in the rev range you are. If you change gears at say 6500 rpm verses 6700 rpm then you'll have more torque available more quickly (if you catch my drift). If you are not into tracking your car or doing a lot of drag racing then perhaps Leader gears is not for you. If you wish your car to be more responsive to accelleration then by all means upgrade. Traction control can be added regardless of what diff gears you're running as it modulates the injector pulses and not the drive train. Incidentally, you may require a different chip in the ECU to make the most of the changes that the Leader gears make.

 

On a side note, we [DTA-Motorsport (UK)] are resellers of Leader Gears as well as official distributors of RaceLogic traction control systems. ;)

 

HTH

 

Dan

 

I love the little side note there danny. well placed ;) i may be looking into something of that sort in the near future too.

  • Author
It's not about shortening the physical gear change (ie, time it takes to throw it from one gear to the next), upgrading to 4.1 Leader gears in your diff changes the point at which the gearbox needs to change gears. Generally speaking, torque (ie pulling power) levels off the higher in the rev range you are. If you change gears at say 6500 rpm verses 6700 rpm then you'll have more torque available more quickly (if you catch my drift). If you are not into tracking your car or doing a lot of drag racing then perhaps Leader gears is not for you. If you wish your car to be more responsive to accelleration then by all means upgrade. Traction control can be added regardless of what diff gears you're running as it modulates the injector pulses and not the drive train. Incidentally, you may require a different chip in the ECU to make the most of the changes that the Leader gears make.

 

On a side note, we [DTA-Motorsport (UK)] are resellers of Leader Gears as well as official distributors of RaceLogic traction control systems. ;)

 

HTH

 

Dan

OK THEN? with that it mind i proberly would replace the rear subframe then i can do all the pipes and clutter removal as long as its not to expensive and latter you can fit traction control for me ,but how can i find out what chip i have in my car please and how much do you charge

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