Hi guys, I'm looking for some rear shock absorbers for my uk spec zed. Does anyone know if the Jap spec suspension are any different from the uk spec ones, coz I've heard that the uk specs are stiffer than the japs. The car keeps snaking when going over bumps nearly losing traction it's quite scary specially in the wet:nono:.

Hi guys, I'm looking for some rear shock absorbers for my uk spec zed. Does anyone know if the Jap spec suspension are any different from the uk spec ones, coz I've heard that the uk specs are stiffer than the japs. The car keeps snaking when going over bumps nearly losing traction it's quite scary specially in the wet:nono:.

 

I think the uk rears are self adjusting.

Hi guys, I'm looking for some rear shock absorbers for my uk spec zed. Does anyone know if the Jap spec suspension are any different from the uk spec ones, coz I've heard that the uk specs are stiffer than the japs. The car keeps snaking when going over bumps nearly losing traction it's quite scary specially in the wet:nono:.

 

The uk shocks are quite expensive £90+ each i think,if you can find em! I replaced mine with the jap ones 1/3rd of the cost and same as the firm setting on the uk`s. would also check bushes etc if feeling wobbly,one of my shocks was fubar but never did all that.

Aren't the UK rears hooked up to the electrics on the car?

UK ones have a motorised actuator on the top only on the rears that turns a gizmo in the hollow shocker shaft to change the damping from normal to hard. (USA ones also have on the fronts)

 

You can also fit the import type which are much cheaper and bin the actuators.

 

I did get UK ones for mine. There are various theories as to how they are supposed to work apparently with theories like changing to the stiff setting when you plant the throttle to help avoid squat at the rear. There is a diagnostic to prove the actuators are working. Basically when the handbrake is on or more accurately when the handbrake warning light is on then the actuators go to the stiff setting. You can feel the difference on a bumpy road when you bring on the handbrake light. This of course needs them to be working! You can also just about hear the actuators when you bring on the handbrake with ignition on but engine off.

 

When mines failed it was the nearside and it was skipping over manhole covers and potholes and making the back end skip sideways a bit. Not nice. New ones brought things back to how it should be. Fairly easy job to replace. Best with a mate to push down the suspension when you refit the new ones.

Aren't the UK rears hooked up to the electrics on the car?

 

Only on the later models.

Only on the later models

 

Mine's a 92 and the diagnostic makes them operate.

mines a 92 and had them

but then saying that, they aonly made uk cars upto 94, so in theory we do have later model uk cars lol

mine does this. one notch to bring on the light and she stiffens up...the car that is!

Well mine's J reg

UK ones have a motorised actuator on the top only on the rears that turns a gizmo in the hollow shocker shaft to change the damping from normal to hard. (USA ones also have on the fronts)

 

You can also fit the import type which are much cheaper and bin the actuators.

 

I did get UK ones for mine. There are various theories as to how they are supposed to work apparently with theories like changing to the stiff setting when you plant the throttle to help avoid squat at the rear. There is a diagnostic to prove the actuators are working. Basically when the handbrake is on or more accurately when the handbrake warning light is on then the actuators go to the stiff setting. You can feel the difference on a bumpy road when you bring on the handbrake light. This of course needs them to be working! You can also just about hear the actuators when you bring on the handbrake with ignition on but engine off.

 

When mines failed it was the nearside and it was skipping over manhole covers and potholes and making the back end skip sideways a bit. Not nice. New ones brought things back to how it should be. Fairly easy job to replace. Best with a mate to push down the suspension when you refit the new ones.

 

Yeh that's the exact problem I'm having with it.

rear end jumping around could also be inner and outer rear hicas balljoints, ive just replaced all mine along with ditching the hicas with a powertrix hicas elimator bar at a price of £400 doing the work myself, if the back end is wobbling, jack it up and test the wheels like you were checking a wheel bearing, if there is exsesive play left to right then it culd be the outer bal joints

Got new Hicas bars fitted 2 months ago coz the Hicas light was coming on but thats all sorted now its just the council has put stupid speed bumps on my street and some neighbours are also having suspension issues so I don't know if it's that.

hicas bars??????

mine`s a j plate too so you`ll deffo have em,in all honesty our roads are so rubbish don`t matter if hard or soft.. still rattles yer bones.

i assume you mean hicas arms ie, inner ball joints, the outer ball joints are the worse for rear wheel hop

Yeh that's I mean I just call them bars, arms were replaced and the rear subframe was removed to fit new brake cables.