off work doing my kitchen at home on my holiday time :rant: Breaking loose floor paint up (temp to stop dust) floor is about 14m square. To level needs to be made up from 12mm to 30mm as is uneven to accept ceramic 12" tiles. Self levelling to weak and expensive for are. So I figure unibond area then a wet cement screed ? Will this work ok ? what sand cement ratio. not done floors before got an idea but being a mere shop bench joiner need to know what will stick.

ta in advance

Sounds to me like you would be better off breaking up the whole floor and laying a new one.

 

Don't understand what you mean by 12mm to 30mm. Is this the undulation in the floor?

 

Don't envy you doing it.

 

Good luck with it.

 

Darrell

Sounds to me like you would be better off breaking up the whole floor and laying a new one.

 

Don't understand what you mean by 12mm to 30mm. Is this the undulation in the floor?

 

Don't envy you doing it.

 

Good luck with it.

 

Darrell

 

The floor level discrepency varies from 12mm to 30mm runs downhill a bit. Floor is sound not want to break it up anymore than needs to be. Just need a strong tight bond to the existing concrete. I was gonna just level the tiles as I go like when laying a terrrazzo floor but ceramic adhesive is expensive so looking at bridging the gap with cement first

basically need method to give strong bond to concrete over a gradiant of between 12-30mm, Strength of mix do I unibond first or not. Do i need 50mm cement minimum on concrete or is that just for non porus surfaces?

WHat type of floor are you putting onto the screed? is the floor subject to any wet conditions or heat or cold? if the variation is 12mm to 30mm, ive done floors of that size with latex self leveling compound, worked no probs. If thats the drop from one side to the other, you could use a wet cement mix of say 3/1 or even 2/1, but this would stand a chance of cracking over time.

 

For the agro, i would take up the floor,start again and either put in a screed floor of say 4-6" or with joist's and new boards.

 

Stu

WHat type of floor are you putting onto the screed? is the floor subject to any wet conditions or heat or cold? if the variation is 12mm to 30mm, ive done floors of that size with latex self leveling compound, worked no probs. If thats the drop from one side to the other, you could use a wet cement mix of say 3/1 or even 2/1, but this would stand a chance of cracking over time.

 

For the agro, i would take up the floor,start again and either put in a screed floor of say 4-6" or with joist's and new boards.

 

Stu

Ceramic tiles going on there because of the area I figure latex would cost an arm and a leg would be the ideal choice but costly thats why I was gonna go for cement. Was just concerned about the bond to existing concrete

floor is only subject to normal room temperatures no under floor heating and no wet conditions

imo i would pva the floor the brush with sand (to give a very good key) let it dry it will go like sand paper, then screed but i would say 12mm is thin for screed and could crack up

^^^^ Like Dipone says 12mm is a little thin it could run the risk of breaking. Absolute must is to PVA the floor before you put anything down. Just water it down and brush it all over to seal the floor. If you want to put sand and cement down, go with a 3/1 mix but don't forget additives, (plasticiser and waterproofer) these will make the mix easier to work with, also put plenty of PVA in the mix, this should help it bond together and prevent cracking.

just gonna pva the first half up where it gets a little thin for sand/ cement I might just level the tiles with the ceramic tile adhesive laid on thick and push them down level

make sure you PVA before you lay the tile adhesive otherwise it won't stick properly.

 

Trust me I'm a builder I do this day in day out. Any probs PM for my number and give me a call.

make sure you PVA before you lay the tile adhesive otherwise it won't stick properly.

 

Trust me I'm a builder I do this day in day out. Any probs PM for my number and give me a call.

 

I've unibonded the floor today and had a word with a floor contractor. latex with chippings for the deep bits (holes, drainage chases etc) and latex for the rest. Sounds good to me gonna be a few bags though. Anyone know cheaper than wickes nationally for self leveller 12.5kg £7summit

Try Builder centre or Travis Perkins, they do the stuff in 25kgs bags, will also need a decent drill with paddle, and a large bucket to mix it in, the price of the 25kgs stuff should work out cheaper than buying 2 x 12.5 bags.

Only tried robert price so far they wanted £3 more than wickes for 5kg less will keep shopping haven't completely boken the floor up yet got to do under the units so means moving them this morning my back is stiff as a board today

can I ask why your not latexing it?

Bal is not that expencive

WHat type of floor are you putting onto the screed? is the floor subject to any wet conditions or heat or cold? if the variation is 12mm to 30mm, ive done floors of that size with latex self leveling compound, worked no probs. If thats the drop from one side to the other, you could use a wet cement mix of say 3/1 or even 2/1, but this would stand a chance of cracking over time.

 

For the agro, i would take up the floor,start again and either put in a screed floor of say 4-6" or with joist's and new boards.

 

Stu

 

As Stu says.

 

I would Have said painr with Balbond and then Balbond latex self leveling or an other reputable makeof Latex self levelling compound.

can I ask why your not latexing it?

Bal is not that expencive

 

I am it is a latex based self levelling compound gonna need about 100kg plus though

it's gonna need a few coats of latex due to 2" deep holes. do I pva between coats or is there no need. I have given entire floor(took 3 days to break it up) a coat of unibond so far. SoI figure I need to fill deep holes with chippings in as a 1st coat then a leveling coat. How long does this stuff take to dry befor I can lay the ceramics. ....... . . Ta !! ........

my best mates a tyler, ill ask him when i see him tomoro what the best way to do it.

 

but like many tradesmen now days he will probably say screw a plank of wood to the floor to pack it out.

 

that seems to be what I take up a lot when I work with him. flipping cowboys.

my best mates a tyler,

 

not lyv tyler is it??? I'd like to lay her on the floor :nono: :D

best to leave it for 24hours, to allow it to dry, although this depends ,on weather, central heating etc. Don't dry it out too fast as it will crack and break up. If your stuck give me a call. 07737 012429

Hi Boys and Girls

 

This is Paul not Chris. Im a Tiller, 20+ years of it.

 

Right.

 

There is NO cheap way of doing this properly, sand and cement screed should be 50-75mm, British standards is now 75mm, you can go lower but you woud have to have an additive in the screed. This is far to costly.

 

My recommendations.

1. Dig out half the floor and build up in latex. BAL KB15, you can get cheaper brands, this particular brand has the aggregate in it. You can go to 7-35mm in one opperation.

 

2. As above, K15B over the entire area. Take up the flaky paint/loose particles and PRIME THE FLOOR not unibond. Unibonds a glue and just sticks to the surface, a primer penetrates and is what we need. If you are going unibond it, do as the fella says before and mix it with sand as a key.

Don’t try to build the tiles up to 30mm, 10 is the thickest using a solid bed trowel.

BAL K15B is about £15 a bag. key (Area* depth * coverage (1.84)) / Bag Size (25)

You will need a paddle and mixing drill to mix it up. Peice of piss to do, mix it puor it, mix another.

 

Or you could try Ultra concrete leveler. This goes 2 - 50mm in one application.

 

This is cheaper than Ardex

 

If your going to get decent tiles, dont skimp on the prep, anything is only as good as the prep.

 

We did have a laugh about the trust me I am a builder

Hi Boys and Girls

 

This is Paul not Chris. Im a Tiller, 20+ years of it.

 

Right.

 

There is NO cheap way of doing this properly, sand and cement screed should be 50-75mm, British standards is now 75mm, you can go lower but you woud have to have an additive in the screed. This is far to costly.

 

My recommendations.

1. Dig out half the floor and build up in latex. BAL KB15, you can get cheaper brands, this particular brand has the aggregate in it. You can go to 7-35mm in one opperation.

 

2. As above, K15B over the entire area. Take up the flaky paint/loose particles and PRIME THE FLOOR not unibond. Unibonds a glue and just sticks to the surface, a primer penetrates and is what we need. If you are going unibond it, do as the fella says before and mix it with sand as a key.

Don’t try to build the tiles up to 30mm, 10 is the thickest using a solid bed trowel.

BAL K15B is about £15 a bag. key (Area* depth * coverage (1.84)) / Bag Size (25)

You will need a paddle and mixing drill to mix it up. Peice of piss to do, mix it puor it, mix another.

 

Or you could try Ultra concrete leveler. This goes 2 - 50mm in one application.

 

This is cheaper than Ardex

 

If your going to get decent tiles, dont skimp on the prep, anything is only as good as the prep.

 

We did have a laugh about the trust me I am a builder

 

 

cheers for all help all the best and wish me luck

As Stu says.

 

I would Have said paint with Balbond and then Balbond latex self leveling or an other reputable makeof Latex self levelling compound.

 

had a m8 builder round today to sort it out. Sbr(same as bal bond...latex based I could not belive how well this stuff sticks even to skin and plastic. It will not come off) mixed neat with cement brushed on to then fill deep voids with strong sand cement mix with rapid set and sbr mixed in while sbr still wet. Letex self leveller goes down tommorrrow if all is dry enough. Would not of believed how good sbr(bal bond) id until i saw it for myself and tried to peel it off my arms today. Don't think that lot will be going anywhere hopefully be sticking tiles down on the weekend if it's dry and might have a kitchen floor for xmas :D