found the origin of the steam from the rear of my engine back. a leak from the area ringed in green is dribbling down and hitting the turbo outlet just before the lamda sensor.

 

Cant see which one of the 2 hoses it is because they are in an awkward crevice. Is it likely that i have a split in one of the hoses or just need a jubille clip to tighten it up. They may have got knocked when my O2 sensors were fitted a while ago.

 

What are these hoses and what do they carry and from where to where?

 

what are the code for these hoses on the courtesy parts catalogue below?

found the origin of the steam from the rear of my engine back. a leak from the area ringed in green is dribbling down and hitting the turbo outlet just before the lamda sensor.

 

Cant see which one of the 2 hoses it is because they are in an awkward crevice. Is it likely that i have a split in one of the hoses or just need a jubille clip to tighten it up. They may have got knocked when my O2 sensors were fitted a while ago.

 

What are these hoses and what do they carry and from where to where?

 

what are the code for these hoses on the courtesy parts catalogue below?

 

I would say it's 14056-NG, only the thicker top hose there is water, the other hose below is from the EGR. TBH it's only a 90° bend that connects to a metal pipe under the manifold, I would suggest a water bypass to eliminate all the other hoses as they might be going to or by a silicone 90° elbow rather than a stock one.

It is part of the TB preheater system. It is totally useless unless over here as we don't have such server winters. Mainly designed for the colder regions of the states.

 

I suggest best thing to do is plenum off and do a bypass and get rid of your EGR stuff as well. also a brilliant chance to replace all the 8mm water pipes with new reinforced cylicone and replace your heater matrix pipes. There is a FAQ for doing this I believe or it may be on TTnet (someone will post the link) Its a day job if you ain very ofay, but 3 to 4 hours if you're confident.

oh ok so it connects to a metal section that travels under the plenum rather than a water feed into the block.

 

Dont think i am mechanically confident enough to do a full water bypass to be honest. looked through some threads and the TT.net write up http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=880107

 

I think i will first try another jubilee clips to see if that stops it then invest in a new elbow if the problem doesnt stop. I would think a standard replacement would last ok as this one has only just gone after 17 years and a possible knock from a spanner when the O2 sensors were replaced.

 

any tips on getting to this little tube as the plenum covers it quite well?

oh ok so it connects to a metal section that travels under the plenum rather than a water feed into the block.

 

Dont think i am mechanically confident enough to do a full water bypass to be honest. looked through some threads and the TT.net write up http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=880107

 

I think i will first try another jubilee clips to see if that stops it then invest in a new elbow if the problem doesnt stop. I would think a standard replacement would last ok as this one has only just gone after 17 years and a possible knock from a spanner when the O2 sensors were replaced.

 

any tips on getting to this little tube as the plenum covers it quite well?

 

I don't want to worry you, but once they start to fail they will all go. If its just the rubber you really should replace the lot and remove the problem as constant leaks lead the low coolant levels. Which lead to airlocks and presurisation which can puts stress on your head gaskets and all other water hoses.

 

If its the Metal pipe the chances are that the system is full of rust and crap. This is cause by not having enough glycol coolant/antifreeze in system. You'll need to replace all metal and rubber pipes and hope you caught it before the matrix is fooked. You should run the car with a 70% glycol based coolant to 30% water. It stops the electic field in the enginebay from transfereing to the water and rusting everything.

 

If it is the metal pipes be prepare for the matrix to fail and usually shortly afterward the head gaskets.

after extensive poking about this evenning i have discvoered it is actually a leak in 14056-NH which is under coil pack 1 (or the one that is bottom left corner when looking from the front of the engine bay). The coolant is dripping out here and trickling down the plenum and hitting the turbo exhaust manifold.

 

It is a pesky bit of rubber pipe with only a slight bend in it. it is about 2" long. Does anyone know where i can get this from by the weekend. I am diving 170 miles to sheffield and back on monday so need the car ship shape by then.

after extensive poking about this evenning i have discvoered it is actually a leak in 14056-NH which is under coil pack 1 (or the one that is bottom left corner when looking from the front of the engine bay). The coolant is dripping out here and trickling down the plenum and hitting the turbo exhaust manifold.

 

It is a pesky bit of rubber pipe with only a slight bend in it. it is about 2" long. Does anyone know where i can get this from by the weekend. I am diving 170 miles to sheffield and back on monday so need the car ship shape by then.

 

I've got one, used but ok.

really! you would be a lifesaver if you could get it to me by the weekend. I will send you a a pm with my address.

Just be brave and bypass them, it's easier than it sounds.

to be honest after looking at all the How To.... threads and digging about under the coil packs tonight it doesnt seem too hard but I need to get it roadworthy for monday but i will certainly consider it in the future but there are a few questions i have about it.

 

The first one is can i use vac line that was scavenged from the AIV removal for the bypass?

You might be able to, but I'd go and buy a couple of metres of silicon (or rubber) hose and use that.

really! you would be a lifesaver if you could get it to me by the weekend. I will send you a a pm with my address.

 

You have PM

The first one is can i use vac line that was scavenged from the AIV removal for the bypass?

 

Tom -

 

Don't use vacuum tubing as that will corrode within a few months due to coolant eating away at it. Use 4-ply silicone tubing instead. Let me know what the internal diameter of the silicone needs to be and what length and I'll see if I've got anything in stock. If not I can order it for you - few days delivery time.

 

[EDIT:] If you are refering to the generic water by-pass under the plenum I would just get the rubber hoses from Mr Nissan - only costs a few quid (much cheaper than the silicone alternative anyway).

 

Dan

got the PM anthony and have replied.

 

It is acutally the hose that is coded 14056-NJ that is leaking. I miss-read the diagram.

 

Thanks danny. I will see how i far with this replacement before i start planning the bypass. But when i decide to do it i will give you a call to get hold of the silicon lines.

 

My second question about the bypass is....is it only the coolant feeds to the TBs that need to be removed? The rubber coolant lines in and around the turbos are retained?

have been doing more searches about the bypass and the coolant system. Everyone seems to say it is pointless warming the TB's in our moderate climate.

 

Can i just ask why you would want to warm up the throttle bodies anyway? It seems counter productive to warm up incoming air on a turbo charged car that has done its best via intercoolers to loose heat?

have been doing more searches about the bypass and the coolant system. Everyone seems to say it is pointless warming the TB's in our moderate climate.

 

Can i just ask why you would want to warm up the throttle bodies anyway? It seems counter productive to warm up incoming air on a turbo charged car that has done its best via intercoolers to loose heat?

 

Hose on it's way. I think they pre-heat them because some cars are in a very cold climate (North America) but your right every strives to get colder inlet temps!!!! Don't figure :rolleyes:

Can i just ask why you would want to warm up the throttle bodies anyway? It seems counter productive to warm up incoming air on a turbo charged car that has done its best via intercoolers to loose heat?

 

Those hoses are not there to heat the air rather the butterfly connecting points. I think this was probably an over-engineered product liability issue when the car was designed. The reason being, and there have been documented cases of this happening, that the throttle body remained open when trying to decelerate. Granted, this happened after a long run in icy conditions with the cruise control on but you wouldn't want that to happen now would you?! A quick jab on the accelerator cured it and all was fine but I can see why Nissan decided to warm the butterfly joints.

Got the pipe anthony and it fitted up and doesnt leak anymore. Thanks again.

Got the pipe anthony and it fitted up and doesnt leak anymore. Thanks again.

 

No problem, on the forum we're here to help.