hey up, ive just fitted an RSJ and wanted to know if i would have to board the bottom of the RSJ or can you plaster straight onto the metal, if i need to board it will board adhesive stick it up to the bottom of the RSJ (ive batoned and boarded the sides of it

When I knocked a wall through and put an RSJ in it had to be fire boarded to comply with building regs.

When I knocked a wall through and put an RSJ in it had to be fire boarded to comply with building regs.

not a building inspector are you lol

Just getting an answer for you now, from a plasterer :D

I drilled through the RSJ, and screwed the plasterboard to it, then plastered over!

I drilled through the RSJ, and screwed the plasterboard to it, then plastered over!

 

hhhhhhmmmmmmmmm, would take some drilling though eh?????

Scared???

Scared???

 

papping meself!!!!!

i would put it up with adisive, then plaster board edging strips and plaster. if its a large area battern it out (you can get screws that self taper into RSJ i have some if you need any or need to see what they look like) then screw the plaster to the batterns

This is the answer I've just received.....

 

You can dab it & then use plaster board but it would be better if u batton it & then plaster board because if there is any movement in the rsj the dub will come away.

 

HTH

 

Dave

This is the answer I've just received.....

 

 

 

HTH

 

Dave

 

ive battened and screwed the sides, its just the underside of the rsj that i was concerned about, may try dabbing it

i would put it up with adisive, then plaster board edging strips and plaster. if its a large area battern it out (you can get screws that self taper into RSJ i have some if you need any or need to see what they look like) then screw the plaster to the batterns

 

cheers bud

ive battened and screwed the sides, its just the underside of the rsj that i was concerned about, may try dabbing it

What he means is that you can extend the side battoning down and then attach the underside plasterboard to that.

If that makes sense?

What he means is that you can extend the side battoning down and then attach the underside plasterboard to that.

If that makes sense?

 

yeah that makes sence, but ive already battened and boarded the sides, will try dabbing it and see how it goes

 

cheers everyone

not a building inspector are you lol

 

lol, yeah where you do live Stellaz? :D

 

Nah I just like to comply with the regs. Most of 'em are there for good reason :)

This is how I would do this as i have done it before with no problems.

 

First thing to do would be to tap some partition timber into the joints of the RSJ. You can then either cut three lengths of plasterboard or do it in one.

 

Measure the exact width of all sides; lefthand side, soffit (underside) and righhand side. Mark out the plasterboard where the bottom of the lefthand side starts and then across to the bottom of the righthand side, now score with the knife these two lines and break the cuts, you will now have three pieces of plasterboard still attached with the paper. Apply bonding compound to the underside of the beam and then offer the lefthand side up, screw this side to the noggins that you tapped in earlier, wrap the board under the soffit, tapping it on to make sure that it is firm and then fold the righthand side up and screw that to the noggins. You will now have a single board fastened to the RSJ. Once dotted and screwed to the noggins fill the external angles with a bit of adhesive too. Fix beads using either staple gun or screws.

 

HTH

This is how I would do this as i have done it before with no problems.

 

First thing to do would be to tap some partition timber into the joints of the RSJ. You can then either cut three lengths of plasterboard or do it in one.

 

Measure the exact width of all sides; lefthand side, soffit (underside) and righhand side. Mark out the plasterboard where the bottom of the lefthand side starts and then across to the bottom of the righthand side, now score with the knife these two lines and break the cuts, you will now have three pieces of plasterboard still attached with the paper. Apply bonding compound to the underside of the beam and then offer the lefthand side up, screw this side to the noggins that you tapped in earlier, wrap the board under the soffit, tapping it on to make sure that it is firm and then fold the righthand side up and screw that to the noggins. You will now have a single board fastened to the RSJ. Once dotted and screwed to the noggins fill the external angles with a bit of adhesive too. Fix beads using either staple gun or screws.

 

HTH

 

:bow: :bow: , have got the battens jammed into the side of the rsj, just wanted t know how to keep the board on the underside of the rsj and now i know, cheers bud :bow: :duffer: :duffer:

hi mate if you have battened the side then stick plasterboard to bottom of rsj with gripfill or no nails then coin beeds and plaster it would probably btake you a week if you had to drill and fix !!!

hi mate if you have battened the side then stick plasterboard to bottom of rsj with gripfill or no nails then coin beeds and plaster it would probably btake you a week if you had to drill and fix !!!

also thought of that too

cheers

Using the Chris P widged method to hand your battens to the walls to just bellow the RSJ and then put noggings across. You then nail the board to the battons and noggings. Then use board edgins to A keep it neat and tidy and B give that little extra strength.

 

You can use a thin coat of bonding, then mesh tided into browning edgings. Then biuld up with bonding then skim over the top. This is the traditional way (my opinion the proper way) but these days everything is dot and dab, or batton, nogging and gripofix

:bow: :bow: , have got the battens jammed into the side of the rsj, just wanted t know how to keep the board on the underside of the rsj and now i know, cheers bud :bow: :duffer: :duffer:

 

You wont have any problems with this method my friend.

 

Tried and tested .. I do prefer to use older methods when appropriate but in this case it is easier to do it this way, and even a semi decent plasterer / novice would be able to skim this to a reasonable standard.

 

Cheers

 

Chris

Dry Line The Bottom With Plasterboard Then When You Put On The Angle Bead That Gives You The Goos Edge Then Nial/screww The Angle Bead Into To Wooden Batton Through The Side, Then Skim It All In ..all Done

If you cant use the sides to hold up the bottom (meanin you have a limit to the overall width). You must pva the bottom of steel (very inportant) then dot/dad with dry wall adv using a timber straight edge under with a few timber batten props to hold it up, leave overnite and remove.

Gripfil (slight) corner beads apply 2 (maybe 3) coats of 'easi-fil' (filter) then rub down (120g)/ sponge off (damp only) paint, finished.