I've been rebuilding my engine since the last 4 month and i took the road today with it.

The oil temperature reach 110°C (230F) and i'm just breaking in the engine so i don't run full boost and i don't rev high :(

 

The things that make me feel the oil don't flow through the oil cooler is that after 100miles driving today, i found that the 2 hoses that go to the top of the oil cooler were not tight but there were no leak.

I'm reading a oil pressure from 2 (at idle) to 5 bar when i start to rev a little bit so how does the hose didn't jump out with 5 bar of pressure?

 

Hope you understand my accent lol

ALL zed engine's run hot after 100kms !!!!!!!!!

 

when did the fan kick in ..???????

 

...

i don't have the fan anymore.

I've installed an electric fan (3000CFM puller) and it's tart with a switch.

I've also installed a FMIC.

wheres your oil cooler?? mine was where the side mount was on my high power zed and it ran a little high so i moved it to just behind the fmic as it was too angled on the side and it bought the temps right down, also how big is your oil cooler?

 

Mike

The oil pressure to the cooler is MUCH lower than the oil pressure in the engine, hence no leaks ;)

thank you andyduff, i understand better.

Kirbz, my oil cooler is between my FMIC and my Koyo rad.

 

I use the euro spec oil cooler but may need a bigger one :'(

I didn't think an oil temperature of 110 was that high. A water temp that high is cooking though.

thank you andyduff, i understand better.

Kirbz, my oil cooler is between my FMIC and my Koyo rad.

 

I use the euro spec oil cooler but may need a bigger one :'(

 

for a highly modded car its just too small, have a search for a local supplier of setrab coolers as there superbly made and a good price as well ;)

 

you need at least a 20 row cooler if not bigger

 

Mike

I didn't think an oil temperature of 110 was that high. A water temp that high is cooking though.

 

110 degrees if pretty high, oil starts breaking down at around 125 if memory serves so you should only see temps like that on maybe a track day but for normal driving oil temps shouldnt go over 100 degrees, mine never went over 90 degrees unless i was pushing real hard :)

 

Mike

What oil squirters are you using?

 

Have you uprated turbos got water cooling or just air/oil?

 

What size oil cooler are you using?

 

Are you using the original feed and return or are you using a sandwich plate?

 

What grade oil are you using?

 

If you have gone for the NA style oil squirter then you oil will need more then standard cooling because the oil is sprayed more onto the underside of the piston crown to help take heat away.

 

Bigger turbos will throw more heat into oil and depending on which turbos the oil may be the main thing cooling them.

 

The oiriginal oil presure regulator isn't the most efficent means of regulating the flow of oil to the cooler and a remote filter plate allows you to by pass the regulator and use the oil pump to circulate the oil constantly. Then a Thermo regulator will allow the oil to be pasted through the cooler as it's temp demands. This helps engine reach temp quicker which means oil reaches working temp faster and causes less stress to working parts.

 

In correct grade oils will get hotter if they are working outside their opperating perameters. A 10 - 60 has a much wider temp rande than a 0 - 30.

110 is pretty normal for oil in a modern car!

What oil squirters are you using?

 

I'm using the standard one

 

Have you uprated turbos got water cooling or just air/oil?

I have greddy td05-16G so only air oil cooled

 

What size oil cooler are you using?

 

I'm using the stock oil cooler.

 

Are you using the original feed and return or are you using a sandwich plate?

I'm using a sandwitch plate but I'm still using the original feed and return. Should I change something here?

 

What grade oil are you using?

For the break in of the engine, I'm using a motul oil 5W40 100% synthese.

I planned to use a Castrol RS 10w60 soon.

 

The oiriginal oil presure regulator isn't the most efficent means of regulating the flow of oil to the cooler and a remote filter plate allows you to by pass the regulator and use the oil pump to circulate the oil constantly. Then a Thermo regulator will allow the oil to be pasted through the cooler as it's temp demands. This helps engine reach temp quicker which means oil reaches working temp faster and causes less stress to working parts.

Is there any write up on installing a remote plate?

 

Thank you :)

I'm using the standard one

 

 

I have greddy td05-16G so only air oil cooled

 

 

 

I'm using the stock oil cooler.

 

 

I'm using a sandwitch plate but I'm still using the original feed and return. Should I change something here?

 

 

For the break in of the engine, I'm using a motul oil 5W40 100% synthese.

I planned to use a Castrol RS 10w60 soon.

 

 

Is there any write up on installing a remote plate?

 

Thank you :)

 

Stock cooler will not cope with the extra heat the turbos alone will be passing into the oil. Like Kirbz says you really need a 235mm X 25 row cooler.

Mocal are a good make and look exactly the same a Setrab Coolers, but half the price. Pace also good for this kind of stuff.

 

Sandwich plate I asume is being used as a take off point for after market oil presure and temp Gauges.

 

If you bin that and get a remote filter take off you will be able to root the feed direct from the oilfilter housing to the filter and then to your cooler and back to the housing. Mocal and pace remote housings give you a take off point for oil presure and you can put a inline takeoff for the oil temp between the filte housing and remote housing, I'd go for Half inch feeds.

 

You should really be running the engine in on a cheap 10-40 running in mineral oil. Ask your local supplier for a running in oil.

You should really be running the engine in on a cheap 10-40 running in mineral oil. Ask your local supplier for a running in oil.

 

why should I ?

You should really be running the engine in on a cheap 10-40 running in mineral oil. Ask your local supplier for a running in oil.

 

why should I ?

 

Because even though the engine needs lubrication, you want to minimise lubrication to the piston rings/bores. This allows the rings to wear to the shape of the bores properly (which is what running in is all about) and get the most out of the honing process. The bore honing is done to provide an abrasive surface for the rings to wear to...

ok thank you :)

 

I will purchase the big oil cooler :)

 

Can you help me on my other problem please :(