Right,

 

Ive fitted both the PTU and the CAS that Smithy kindly sent me and it still wont start!!!!!??????

 

Has ANYBODY got any other ideas what this may be rather than me taking the car to Nissan to get bumped off?

 

There is definatly no spark at the plugs so what else could that be?

 

Car just lost power,misfired and came to a stop.

 

Am getting desperate as its my daily driver and ive been without for 2 weeks now so any suggestions greatly accepted on this

 

Jase

yeah i spose suicide is a viable option at the mo

Have you used your multimeter to check the continuity of cables between the CAS and your ECU

Shame your not over here with your car, it's so much easier to work on in person rather than by remote control via a keyboard :)

thats like asking a 3 year old to do brain surgery with me mate haha.

i suppose the fault i.e misfire then loss of power and stall would maybe suggest a fuelling problem, if the pump failed would it not just suck thru the remaining fuel in the lines til they were dry?then die.

 

is there a relay i cna remove to swap for the pump one just to check it out?

yeh but even if the fuel pump failed you should still be able to get a spark from your plugs?? which is what concerns me

OK, let me ponder my next move then

Yeah i spose, My dad held the plug attached to the coilpack and checked for a spark while i did the dangerous bit and turned the key heh heh but he says there was deffo no spark there at all?

Did he earth the shell of the spark plug to a good ground ?

he held it on the top of the engine somewhere? i think it was on the silver bit where it says "twin turbo" or around there

Im pretty sure that piece is plastic hence no spark

 

You may need to retest this bit to double check or your going in circles

The threaded part of the plug must sit on a good earth. If you have a piece of wire, strip it back and wrap it around the thread of the plug and connect it to battery -

You may be able to do the test yourself by using the above method as you can peek under the bonnet if you arrange the plug correctly.

Battery earth i presume before i blow us all up?

Correct

I'll do it later tonite using that method and have a good peek at the tip for a spark..cheers for your help

No worries and good luck

 

I'll check on any replies when I'm at work tomorrow if I can (you'll be Zzzzzzzz, getting your beauty sleep) by then

In the meantime any ideas anyone?

Disconnect the plug from the air regulator

Check for a volatge on the pins as you turn the ignition on

Allow a couple of minutes with the ignition off between checking pins

A voltage here confirms power to the fuel pump control unit via the fuel pump relay (assuming the wiring is OK)

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=diag&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=1&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=4

Where the heck is the air regulator?

What did you do to car before it stopped working? Where are you? Who's near you who could come and have a look?

 

First thing to do is ensure that the earths are connected to the back of the plenum.

They are found near the throttle regulater, on the back of the plenum where its close to the bulkhead. One is right next to the coil pack on N/S (carn't remember if thats 5 or 6 without looking) and the other is at the back but closer to the centre of the plenum. If these are not connected, damaged etc so as to stop the plenum being earthed. It will just fry the PTU.

 

Then check the earth for the injectors. That a small spade connector next to either injector 1 or 2.

 

Then check the PTU. I know that you've been sent it as a good one and I know Paul wouldn't have sent you a duff one knowingly, but you cannot take it for granted that it is OK. See whos close to you and try it on someone elses car.

 

Have you checked the state of the PTU harness plugs. The conectors often go green and corroded. You'll need to spray them with WD40 and get something in there to clean the little blighters up. Once you done that check again for spark.

 

Also if you were getting fuel through and now your not you may have popped the main fuel pump fuse. Found in the small fuse box near bulkhead, next to brake master on O/S. It is a large long green 30 amp box fuse.

 

Then Check the injector connectors and the coil pack connectors. These go brittle and break up so that the joints go dry and insolation cracks up. If they are knackerd I hav a set of coil pack connectors (sorry no injector connectors) and you can have em for £20 + post and packaging.

I was literally driving along at about 30mph on the way home and it developed a misfire, It was trying to stall but i could just about keep it going with the throttle and it got me home (about a mile) then cut out outside the front door luckily, Then i attempted a re start and it was just dead.

 

I checked the connections to PTU and CAS first and cleaned them up, Turned CAS by hand and i could hear the injectors firing and in fact the engine cranked over which took me by surprise!!!! Fitted the new CAS that Paul has kindly lent me and still dead, Fitted new PTU and still dead? Took plug out and there is deffo NO SPARK at the tip, Fuel is getting through although i thought it was not and ive now heard the pump priming so must be ok.

 

I took the green IGN COIL relay out and swopped it with a known good one and also checked the fusible link you are on about and still no spark. I have not checked the earths you are on about though so will check tommorow afternoon to be sure..

 

Now im totally stuck

Checked those and all ok? can anyone recommend someone on the south coast that can have a look for me as im stumped now

have you checked the cambelt is still in one peice.if the belts snapped the cas wont turn.take off the oil filler cap and gently turn the front pulley back and forth using a ratchet and a 27mm socket.look to see if the camshaft moves.

I was literally driving along at about 30mph on the way home and it developed a misfire, It was trying to stall but i could just about keep it going with the throttle and it got me home (about a mile) then cut out outside the front door luckily, Then i attempted a re start and it was just dead.

 

Did you do a blink code check first?

 

Do you have dump Valves or original Recircs?

 

Do you have a cone type induction or the original filter housing?

 

I checked the connections to PTU and CAS first and cleaned them up, Turned CAS by hand and i could hear the injectors firing and in fact the engine cranked over which took me by surprise!!!! Fitted the new CAS that Paul has kindly lent me and still dead, Fitted new PTU and still dead? Took plug out and there is deffo NO SPARK at the tip, Fuel is getting through although i thought it was not and ive now heard the pump priming so must be ok.

 

I took the green IGN COIL relay out and swopped it with a known good one and also checked the fusible link you are on about and still no spark. I have not checked the earths you are on about though so will check tommorow afternoon to be sure..

 

Now im totally stuck

 

sorry to say this but you seem to have jumped in to deep too quickly without going through the basic funimentals first and your going to have to back track. I would start by putting every thing back as it was. Then Check your plugs first. They will tell you what has been happening and to each cylinder provided you haven't washed them clean. Then dependant on the state and colour of the plugs will depend which next basic step to take.

 

It could have been naf coil pack or coil pack lead, an air leak, a dirty or knackered MAF.

 

I have had the same symtom as you on 2 previous occations.

once it was a broken wire insulation on the loom. Did all the same messing around as you have and only by back tracking and going through each system properly did we find it. Could only do that by starting with the fundimentals, ie spark pluggs.

 

2 obviously were not fireing.

 

Checked plugs they were Ok.

 

Checked coil pack OK

 

Power mmm No

 

Checked feed from ECU for those coil packs and power there.

 

Ran 2 new wires and bingo.

 

in the end the easyest thing was to replace the loom.

£300 for loom and 2 days work, but bar thing I ever did.

 

The second time was a bad air leak.

 

The point I'm making is you need an other car there to test your bits you've dabble with to ensure there fine and then start from the begining and not think you know what it might be. Otherwise your going to hide what it really is by fooking with stuff that don't need touching.

 

There must be someone in your aera who come over with his car.

 

Once upon a time you would have had 4 or 5 local club members offering to come round at the weekend to get you sorted. This club is loosing the essance of what it was.