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Need to do some worktops and have a corner to join. It'll cost around £60 to get a shop to do it but I just wanted to know how difficult it actually is if I have the router and jig?

 

Cheers

 

Vijay

Featured Replies

Hi Im A Cabinet Maker And It Is Easy To F*** Them Up Shop Around It Should Cost 30 A Joint Worth Every Penny !

it isn't as easy as just putting on the jig and making the cut. the wall and corners in your house won't be square, so if you cut the joint square your worktop will be a few inches out at the other end.

 

get a chippie to do it, usually only about £40 a join

That was a cheap Jig .. didnt show any of the pegs .. probably a copy of an original .. to be honest mate, if youve spent good money on worktops, its best to get someone who can do it properly .. its not as easy as sticking the jig on and routing round .. the jig was cheap but a decent 1/2" router bit will cost you close to 40/50 notes

 

Get a chippy to do it bud

  • Author

the problem is finding a good chippy, I can do most things but never tried this before. What exactly is involed? They're not expensive worktops (well I don't think they are, 40mm laminated chipboard) so replacements won't be too pricey........................

 

Cheers

 

Vijay

My sister-in-law hand built her own beautiful kitchen. When she did the Work Tops she picked up some cheap board and practised on that first when she'd got the perfect fit she used the cheap piece as a template. I wish I had her kitchen it's amazing.

 

Oh and since then she's done 3 others. Best of luck with your Work Tops

I hired a kit from a local tool hire shop , you got a half inch router a brand new router bit the worktop jig and an instuction video as well , it was quite easy to do :hyper: bloody messy though :headvswal

you have to scribe the worktops in first before you use the jig, then you need worktop router bits to cut it with the jig, you need to know where to put the face joint for the male/female joins, then you cut, when youve done the cat you then need to flip it over to do the dog bone recess cuts for the pull bolts.

 

when i fit them i also use a biscuit joiner and put some slots in to keep the joint level at all times and it will keep it level over the years to come, no drops, you then put access holes in the tops of the cabinets to get to the dog bone botls and tighten. then underscrew to fix down.

 

pics attatched..

 

hope this helps ;)

As 'pk1' says i use a biscuit joiner aswell with neat pva bushed on. The main thing is having the right tools and i use a purpose built bench.

  • Author

cheers guys, swaying towards giving it a go myself as I always like to learn how to do new things. Only bit I haven't got is the biscuit joiner.

 

When you say "scribe the worktops in", what exactly do you mean?

 

Vijay

put worktop on to cabinets, push back edge against wall, if you see a gap anywhere then you use a scribe compass ( i use one) or a small pice of wood same thickness as the gap and a pencil the other side and go from one side to the other and it will follow the contours of the wall perfectly for when you jigsaw the back to fit the wall flush

Bloody hell mine looks nearly professional :hyper: :hyper: :D :D

f7a2f655.jpg

Yeah!-NEARLY! :rofl: :rofl: :D

Take your time and your probably be fine. run a few passes cutting with the router (dont cut the worktop in one go), stick duck tape over the cut (on show).You dont have to use a biscuit joiner. Router in bolt points to the under side brush some pva (glue) to both surfaces (help hold the two stronger together).

Same if you have any end edges, trim close to what will be finish size, pva and hot iron on, then duck tape till next day remove and file finished curve dead on.

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