As suggested I tested the right hand side with Datascan, but got very different O2 result between the two sides, can someone advise which side is faulty?

 

Right hand side

At Idle sits at about 90, as the rpm is increased to 2000 it gently swings between 90 and 10 (about 1-2 seconds per oscillation), and continues to do so at a steady 2000rpm.

 

Left hand side

Sits at 35 at idle, as rpm is increased towards 2000 it dips slightly to about 32 and stays there, at 2000rpm it stays at 32, but when the throttle is released it slowly rises to 55 and then falls away to about 35 again.

 

Would I be correct in assuming that the left hand side sensor is defective, as its not oscillating? And for clarity is the left hand side the nearside (passenger/battery side) of the car?

 

Also before I start swapping out the sensor, does anyone have any tips on replacing an O2 sensor?

 

Thanks

 

David

Yep, left hand side defective.

Cheers!

 

So that I don’t do the wrong one, is the left hand side the battery side?

 

Also do you have any tips on changing these, I assumed that it a case of sticking it on ramps and doing it from underneath, but as I could see the sensor from above, I did wonder if the battery and battery base plate could be removed and the job would be better from above?

Thanks

David

I havn't done the job myself but If your doing it in situ then I think ive heard people talk of needing a "Crows Foot Spanner" ;)

Cheers! I'll see if the local stores or garages have one that I can buy or borrrow, from some other posts it looks like it will make an impossible job just difficult

Cheers! I'll see if the local stores or garages have one that I can buy or borrrow, from some other posts it looks like it will make an impossible job just difficult

 

In the end i used a hammer and chisel to smash the top of the sensor off to leave just the bolt. Then got a standard 22mm socket on and it came off easy. The problem i had was getting hold of a 22mm crows foot, and a long socket wouldnt reach the bolt on the base of the sensor after i snipped the wire. Make sure you use loads of wd40 or similar too. Hope it goes a lot better than when i done mine.

What a fun day, I gave the sensor a good dousing of plus gas the night before and throughout the morning, I bought a 22mm crows foot (eventually), but using a ½” to ⅜” adaptor and ½” tools was a pain due to the limited space, so I borrowed a ⅜” flexible joint from the local garage and broke it within an hour of trying to free the sensor.

 

He suggested that rather than work on it cold, take it on a run and work on it when hot, so I had to do a 30 mile round trip to the local Halfords to get a replacement for the tool that I broke, and whilst there picked up a few other ⅜” bits that I thought might be useful. I also picked up a long reach 22mm ½ socket and cut a slot along the length, worked really well on the new sensor, but was too tall to fit with the Air Con connections through the bulkhead, so back to the crows foot! Battled away with the assortment of tools, thought that I was getting there when a ⅜” short extension snapped in the crows foot, and the crows foot is now stuck on the sensor! Having now spent some 6 hours working and 2 hours driving to get bits I thought time to give up.

 

I’m now either going to let the local garage do it, or look at BEE Gee Vinz’s alternative placement of the O2 sensors, but do they need to be installed in the same orientation as they are now?

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=65236&highlight=crows

you have gone the right way about it,if you havn't already,use the 22m crows foot with a couple of feet of extensions,then use a big bar to get leverage,if this fails,then all the time taken you may aswell of removed the downpipe from the turbo 4x13mm nuts/bolts,then place downpipe in vice crack ceramic sensor then remove remainder,replace as nes

 

greg

hey guys, neither of my 02 sensors are working - whoopee! I tested them on my laptop. What effects is this going to have on my car? does it effect the performance, fuel economy or what?

also check out the connector - I had a dead one until the connector pins got a scraping of the green oxide.

you have gone the right way about it,if you havn't already,use the 22m crows foot with a couple of feet of extensions,then use a big bar to get leverage,if this fails,then all the time taken you may aswell of removed the downpipe from the turbo 4x13mm nuts/bolts,then place downpipe in vice crack ceramic sensor then remove remainder,replace as nes

 

greg

 

 

 

 

yer that works.... well as long as im not helping..... like i said before.. i didnt break it,, i just helped it along!!

I used the 3 foot bar from my trolley jack, so plenty of leverage, shame that my socket parts cant take the strain, I broke the borrowed ⅜” flexible bit and my new ⅜” bar. Has anyone got a good picture showing the sensor on a removed engine, as removing the downpipe section sounds the way to go either for me or the local garage (its raining again here and I don't have garage myself).

I used the 3 foot bar from my trolley jack, so plenty of leverage, shame that my socket parts cant take the strain, I broke the borrowed ⅜” flexible bit and my new ⅜” bar. Has anyone got a good picture showing the sensor on a removed engine, as removing the downpipe section sounds the way to go either for me or the local garage (its raining again here and I don't have garage myself).

 

 

dont know if this is anygood,pic shows aftermarket downpipes,but same principal

Cheers Greg, is this a standard one?

Cheers Greg, is this a standard one?

it is bud

hey guys, neither of my 02 sensors are working - whoopee! I tested them on my laptop. What effects is this going to have on my car? does it effect the performance, fuel economy or what?

 

Hey mate. Mine are getting replaced my Nissan at the mo. Made my car overfuel and lack power big time. Will be sweet in a couple of days tho!