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Electrical Problem-Gauge indicators stay on

Hi. I don't post on here much, but I really have a problem I cannot solve.

 

I have an '85 300z, non-Turbo. Recently the engine harness caught fire under at the EGR. I guess it was up against the EGR mounts and over heated.

I cut out the bad section, about 3" and reinserted the same gauge wires with butt connectors. Didn't start. I then found the fusible link's box and replaced the burned fuel injector link. Didn't start. Then I replaced the fuel pump fuse, voila, it started and ran perfectly.

 

The problem now is that when I shut it off and remove the key, all the idiot lights that come on when you start the car come back on after about five seconds and don't shut off.

I rechecked the repaired harness at least three times and I am positive it is correct. I replaced the ignition and theft warning relays. Still comes on. I traced the wire all the way from the EGR solenoid valve back to the ignition switch. After removing half the console, I started the car and disconnected the ignition switch, to see if that was the problem. The engine died and the lights came on after a few seconds. The lights do turn off when I remove the ECC fuse (the wire runs through here) or when I disconnect the EGR solenoid. I replaced the solenoid with a junkyard piece and a third and fourth harness for it. The harnesses have diodes in them so I got a few just in case one was bad. I still get the same problem. When the lights come on, so does the voltage gauge. I think it has been draining the battery.

 

Does anyone know whereelse to look? Is there anoither relay I didn't find? I can here the ignition relay flip when the gauge lights come on. Is there an applied voltage to turn them off? I checked the Haynes schematics and couldn't find anything else. What am I over looking? Please respond with any suggestions because I really want to get this fixed so I can drive this car.

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Warren

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Just in case anyone wanted to know, I finally fixed this after three days of testing.

 

There are two blue wires coming off the harness, identicalcolring. I checked them two or three times before with a voltmeter checking for continuity and I kept getting a beep (they were coming from the same source). Before tearing the car to shreds, I rechecked all the wires and similar color ones. I ending up checking resistance to ground. When I got to the blue wires, one read 15ohms and one read 1.3 kohms. This is when I realized there might be a problem. I cut the wires and cross connected them and everything went back to normal. So essentially the idiot light problem was due to idiot error.

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