Hey guys,

 

Well after cierash chaged my master cylinder seals for me i'm now trying to bleed my clutch....in fact i've ben bleeding it ALL DAY.

 

Its still dropping to the floor and not gaining any pressure whatsoever. I need some advice, anyone who's done this please help.

 

I've filled it and bled it from the slave, master and the thing at the front of the engine bay - theres no air left in the damn thing and i'm going through fluid like nobodys business.

 

I'm lost and as of tomorrow carless too.

 

Please help.

 

Rich :headvswal

Hey guys,

 

Well after cierash chaged my master cylinder seals for me i'm now trying to bleed my clutch....in fact i've ben bleeding it ALL DAY.

 

Its still dropping to the floor and not gaining any pressure whatsoever. I need some advice, anyone who's done this please help.

 

I've filled it and bled it from the slave, master and the thing at the front of the engine bay - theres no air left in the damn thing and i'm going through fluid like nobodys business.

 

I'm lost and as of tomorrow carless too.

 

Please help.

 

Rich :headvswal

 

are you doing it yourself or with two?

 

makes life easier if one presses pedal whilst the other collects the fluid and locks of the nut whilst the pedal is compressed

 

or you still have a leak/or air air getting in

and make sure the engine is turned off bud

took me ages to bleed the clutch up was facing down hill turned the car round bled up in 3 bleeds.also try holding back the pistion in the slave whilst ya bleed.tis a bitch to bleed up though good luck :)

or mabye seal kit is faulty :(

or mabye seal kit is faulty :(

 

Thanks for the advice guys, yeah i was doin it with two of us....you know what it was? The fooking adjuster on the pedal was in the wrong place. So i bled three soddin litres of fluid thru it and all i had to do was adjust the thing.

 

However i do have a slight problem....my clutch was soft this morning and my bite point is moving. When its cold its at the floor, when its warm, its right at the top...any ideas?

 

Rich

Re bleed it carefully without agitating the fluid. Micro air bubbles may STILL be present.

Re bleed it carefully without agitating the fluid. Micro air bubbles may STILL be present.

 

thanks Pete, will do :)

just a thought are you bleeding it at the slave cylinder or the bleed point at the inner wing ????

 

cause that fooker caught me right out :o :o. Smart ass me didnt read the manual cause I Know better (20 odd years of working on motors. mainly heavies and most of which have hydraulic clutch operation and i thought id seen it all)

 

had already seen the bleed nipple but thought it was for the coolant system because of the size of the pipe going to it. :headvswal :headvswal :headvswal

No i know about all three of them, i've still got air in nthe damn system and now my clutch is slippin all the time. ANyone got any ideas, i've bled it again today about 9 times and its still leaking air out, i dunno what to do - its doin my head in. The clutch adjustment is almost all the way out and its way higher than the pedal but if i change it i lose all the pressure in the pedal and it just drops to the floor. i'm lost, any advice guys? Anyone else had this problem?

When I converted my auto to manual, I was convinced I'd screwed up with the clutch but unfortunately it just DOES take ages. I had to bleed it again afterwards because the bite point would be too low if I didn't pump the pedal before driving it! As Pete said, it was probably air in the fluid (cavitation).

Hope you get it sorted.

air in the system should mean the clutch dosent clear ie it should be hard or imposible to select a gear with the engine running. it shouldnt cause clutch slip.

 

What were the initial symptoms could be your clutch is goosed and thats why you cant get it bled proprely ( too much travel)

 

either that or youve adjusted the clutch rod too far

Oh crap :( well when kierash rebuilt it i didn't see if he adjusted it. But when i took the thread to the limit as in all the way to the end of the thread (so if i kept turning it would come out) it engaged really well.

But after an hour of driving it the clutch bite point had moved to the top of the pedal travel. After being left over night i have to pump it to get anything out of it.

I bled it again this avo and it was coming out like a rocket from the bleed points and full of air bubbles. It was fine - with the bite point at the floor, until i left it for a few minutes - then it was back at the end of the pedal travel and now its premanently stuck there.

I'm a bit lost!!

Clutch is fine, always was and only had these probs since changing the master seals.

Any more advice apart from bleed more?

Any particular order i should try bleeding it in now i got a clutch that works?

 

:headvswal

 

air in the system should mean the clutch dosent clear ie it should be hard or imposible to select a gear with the engine running. it shouldnt cause clutch slip.

 

What were the initial symptoms could be your clutch is goosed and thats why you cant get it bled proprely ( too much travel)

 

either that or youve adjusted the clutch rod too far

Any more advice apart from bleed more?

 

Try changing the master cylinder. The fact that after bleeding it feels OK and then after USING for a while the system is full of air AGAIN means (IMO) that the master cylinder is fooked, cos its allowing air into the system as you use it.

Try changing the master cylinder. The fact that after bleeding it feels OK and then after USING for a while the system is full of air AGAIN means (IMO) that the master cylinder is fooked, cos its allowing air into the system as you use it.

 

Oh shit, ok mate no worries will do.

 

Thanx Pete

you should of left the clutch ajustment well alone,if it aint broke dont fix it,you have had the seals replaced so there is no need to ajust it on the booster,this is only ever used if clutch travel is at its limit or if its slipping,which 99% of the time indicates a new clutch anyway

 

check all hoses and master cylinder seals after you have reset ajusment on clutch travel,also check master cylinder has been bolted back on securely as this is compressed by the booster if its not flush with the piston it will not work corectly,doubtful but worth a look

Rich, right then, the master cylinder can only be assembled one way, I refitted the clevis back on the rod within a few mm of where I took it off, which I did point out to you.Considering your work shop is like the black hole of calcutta, when I looked at the bore of the master cyinder.....before refitting new parts, it looked fine with no scoring of the bore and its securly bolted to the bulkhead, as i said on the phone double check that the pipe union from the master cylinder is tight........considering the space I tightened it as tight as I could.

 

consider other things

 

clutch is fooked ???????

the flexi is porous..........seen this before on hydraulic lines

the slave cylinder is fooked

 

 

failing all of the above then its air in the system.

 

 

 

 

Pete