Hey. My ConZult arrived on saturday morning :D What a great tool, highly reccomended. I have a knock sensor fault. Checked and re-checked wiring loom for continuity. Found breaks here and there so I by-passed the lot. Fault still there. Fitted a porsche knock sensor to the inlet manifold and connected into my new loom. Still doesnt work. Does any one know the resistance of an operational z32 tt knock sensor? Any help mostly appreciated.

Ye use a 1 MEG resistor instead of the sensor that sorted it out for me.

ok, thanks. Thats what the resistance is on mine :| Might be heading towards an ECU *sobs*

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonationSensor/detonationSensor.html

LOL I'm totally against letting an ecu ignoring one of the most important sensors on an engine in regards of not blowing itself up! Surely engine removal isnt necessary for knock sensor replacement?

mine been done for nearly two years now and no probs

tbh the knock sensor is there for a good reason (to stop yer pistions comin through the bonnet). but its crap cant hear det after 3000 revs (i think) and det is most likley to occur under heavy boost and at the top end.only use optimax unless you have the car mapped to 95 octane.try to get her on a air/fuel meter n check shes not under fueling if she aint go ahead n bypass the det sensor with a 1 meg resistor(at own risk:). every thing should be fine

LOL I'm totally against letting an ecu ignoring one of the most important sensors on an engine in regards of not blowing itself up! Surely engine removal isnt necessary for knock sensor replacement?

 

A) you're absolutely right: bypassing the knock sensor = expensive noises so should only ever be done for diagnosis or temp bodge to get you by if you know what you're doing (and don't drive like a prat :D )

B) you're absolutely right, engine removal is not necessary for knock sensor replacement. I know Ryan / ZTech knows how to and I am sure there are others.

 

I was sworn to secrecy over "the trick" by a bloody cowboy who conned me so here it is: dropping the gearbox allows you to tilt the engine forward just enough to unbolt the EGR valve on the back of the engine which is necessary to remove the gubbins and plenum on top of the engine so you can get to the knock sensor which is in the middle of the V.

 

But be bloody sure to put all the right bolts back and tighten them up unlike the bloody cowboy did to mine as spotted and fixed by ZTech.

 

I am not an engineer so please get this checked by proper techies. HTH - Gio

Thanks for the tip on lowering the gearbox. I'll try and remember that tomorrow night when i go in guns blazing :D However, a knock sensor is an ignition sensor, nothing to do with valve control. It senses 'pinking' on an over advanced ignition angle. Without it, when the ignition advance comes off map, theres no fail safe to prevent pinking and over heating of the engine.