Guys

 

Just checking to see if any of you can add to what I already think is the problem.

 

After doing the manual conversion, and bleeding the clutch pedal, its still completely useless!!

 

The kit came from AndyZ and was apparently working when it came off the car.

 

The slave cylinder doesnt push out at all and there doesnt appear to be any leaks anywhere?!?

 

The pushyout bit!! lol on the slave cylinder is realyl slack!! You can move it back and forth!

 

Is it fooked? I think so...any ideas?

It's very easy to get air trapped in the slave cylinder, especially if you don't have the additional external bleed tube attached (I don't). I found that the best trick is to unbolt the slave when you bleed it and turn it such that the bleed nipple is at the highest point. Obvioulsy, you also need to stop the piston being pushed out too far.

It's very easy to get air trapped in the slave cylinder, especially if you don't have the additional external bleed tube attached (I don't). I found that the best trick is to unbolt the slave when you bleed it and turn it such that the bleed nipple is at the highest point. Obvioulsy, you also need to stop the piston being pushed out too far.

 

Hi Andy

 

When I did the manual converson, I diddnt know of the shortcut that Luke and Jeff came up with which is to run a pipr direct fromt he clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. Me and phil installed the PITA clutch pipe connector that sits on the drivers side inner wing with the 3 pipes coming off it. One to the master, one to the slave and one to where the power steering pot is with a bleed nipple on it. Is this the external nipple you refer to, or is that somewhere else?

 

Can I ask what benefit is gained by turning the slave cylinder so the bleed nipple is at the highest point?

 

I did try tie-rapping the needle into the cylinder and then bleeding it but this diddnt help either?

 

I will try your method andy to see if that helps.

 

Are knackered slave cylinders a common problem?!?

Mine is done with the shortcut method (more or less).

Having the bleed nipple at the highest point allows the air to come out rather than stay trapped in the cylinder.

Never personally heard of a knackered slave cylinder but I wouldn't rule it out. Question I suppose is, Was it working when the donor car was broken ? Probably ...

 

While you're faffing around down there somebody made up a batch of braided clutch lines, much better than the rubber or solid ones.

Mine is done with the shortcut method (more or less).

Having the bleed nipple at the highest point allows the air to come out rather than stay trapped in the cylinder.

Never personally heard of a knackered slave cylinder but I wouldn't rule it out. Question I suppose is, Was it working when the donor car was broken ? Probably ...

 

While you're faffing around down there somebody made up a batch of braided clutch lines, much better than the rubber or solid ones.

 

Ah I see, its all making sense. I bled the clutch with my father-in-law (Been working on cars 20 years) and he said that there's def no air in the system.

 

This in mind, he said the slave cylinder was suspect, hence my suspiscions.

 

To answer the question regarding the legability (Is this the right word?) of the slave cylinder, I presume it was good when it came off the car, its an AndyZ kit. Is there anyway to test it with it off the car? Air pressure perhaps?

 

Regarding the braided clutch lines, does anyone on here supply them?

I bled my clutch about 5 times and used a few bottles of fluid until I gave up, assuming something was faulty.

In the end I left the car for 3 days but decided to give it one last try before I ordered new clutch cylinders.

Loads of air came out and i got a solid pedal in seconds!

These cars are really bad for getting air trapped due to the bleeder layout.

I bled my clutch about 5 times and used a few bottles of fluid until I gave up, assuming something was faulty.

In the end I left the car for 3 days but decided to give it one last try before I ordered new clutch cylinders.

Loads of air came out and i got a solid pedal in seconds!

These cars are really bad for getting air trapped due to the bleeder layout.

 

 

Very interesting that Chris, I have ordered the new slave cylinder anyway, it was only £50 from Nissan (Something cheap from them for a change!!!).

 

I will try bleeding it again when I fit my new exhaust tomorrow night and see how I get on.

 

I am using DOT4 but I presume that wont make a huge difference?

when I did my manual conversion I fitted the extension bleed pipe and it bled up no problem,,, am glad I fitted it now , so there was a good reason for nissan to fit it lol

not trying to steal thread, but mines just come back from having new clutch, pipework, master cylinder etc, and over last few days clutch bite point is getting higher and higher, now its started to slip under hard acceleration??

 

Is this down to bleeding or adjusting pedal, if bleeding, I guess im on for a headache coz I dont know where to bleed from?

AFAIK the pedal getting higher is the adjuster moving when it shouldnt be!!

 

And clutch slip, thats nothing to do with brake fluid, did you have a new flywheel, was it in good nick? Another cause of a slipping clutch is a leaking oil seal.... Get under your car and check for any oil leaking between the gearbox and engine....

 

Good luck...