I hope this is not going to result in another expensive repair but the other day I was 4-up in my Zed and noticed that I was unable to show off due to the clutch slipping everytime I hit the fast peddle:(

 

Ever since I have had the car the clutch biting point has always been quite high.

 

When in the garage the other day for a routine job I was told that I have a slight leak in my clutch slave cylinder, would this be anything to do with this or is it time for my next mod, an uprated clutch!

 

Thanks yet again guys,

 

Justin

HI mate im new to the zx scene but i am a mechanic and im afraid by the sounds of your diagnosis you need to get yourself a new clutch assembly :( im sure thats your problem but as im new it could be a common fault with these motors.Good luck wit hsorting it my mate

I hope this is not going to reslut in another expensive repair but the other day I was 4-up in my Zed and noticed that I was unable to show off due to the clutch slipping everytime I hit the fast peddle:(

 

Ever since I have had the car the clutch biting point has always been quite high.

 

When in the garage the other day for a routine job I was told that I have a slight leak in my clutch slave cylinder, would this be anything to do with this or is it time for my next mod, an uprated clutch!

 

Thanks yet again guys,

 

Justin

 

The Z's are renowned for clutch slippage...wheather its a faulty component or not you will be loosing power through the clutch unless you uprate it.

To be honest leaking fluid/4-up and standard clutch are not a good mix.

If you have or want to do any mod's to your z engine then u will need an uprated clutch to use the extra gogo.

 

Dig deep and invest...Worth the $dollar :hyper:

If yer decide a new one is the way to go mate, then by far the most popular around here has gotta be the RPS fella, check em out below.

http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/300zx_clutches_flywheel.htm

cheers

smithy

You could also try adjusting the clutch biting point at the pedal which is easy to do albeit a little bit cramped.

 

You will need to push your drivers seat completely to the rear and get in with your head facing the front of car and under the steering wheel, legs either outside or going over your front seat to the rear. Look up to under the steering column and you will see an 11 or 10mm nut (can't quite remember the size, its been a while lol !). Undo this nut and get a pair of long nose pliers, just behind the nut is an adjuster, which you can either turn clockwise or anti-clockwise to either put more or less pressure on the pedal. Adjust it a little at a time, making sure you count the revolutions, if it gets worse then you are going the wrong way, so turn it back the same amount and try it the other way.

 

If you find after adjusting this a little it isn't helping then you will need a new clutch my friend. (This little adjustment may well give you a few more weeks use though !!!)

 

If you do have mods then chances are the clutch just isn't capable of holding the power, especially 4's-up !

 

A leaky slave cylinder will only cause the clutch not to disengage as much and it would be harder to get into gear, quite the opposite of what you have ! You will need to get the leak sorted asap as not being able to use the clutch means stranded Z not being able to be put into gear !

 

As soon as I upped my boost to around 1 bar my standard clutch started to slip, and I bought an uprated RPS Clutch as Smithy sells, lovely bit of kit and NEVER, EVER has it slipped !

 

Olly.

Thanks for the replies guys,

 

Olly, I will have a play with the biting point, hopefully it will do the trick.

 

Smithy, if it doesn't then I will be in touch. What deal would you do if I had a clutch, flywheel and pivot ball?

 

Thanks

 

Justin

In my humble oppinion the biting point wouldn't make the clutch slip, the springs apply the clamping pressue, the clutch pedal and associated kit spread the clutch. I'd say unless the plate is contaminated with fluid, you clutch is knackered. sos

It's probably not this but thought I'd mention it anyway- similar thing happened to me and the root cause turned out to be the rear crank seal spraying oil onto the clutch plate.

 

Apparently the clutch itself wasn't too badly contaminated, but I upgraded to an RPS Sport anyway...

In my humble oppinion the biting point wouldn't make the clutch slip, the springs apply the clamping pressue, the clutch pedal and associated kit spread the clutch. I'd say unless the plate is contaminated with fluid, you clutch is knackered. sos

 

Ahhh yeah, but if the biting point is right at the top of the clutch pedal, then the plate will not be able to apply 100% pressure (basically like sitting with your foot on the clutch slightly...)

 

Rear main seal is a possibility - if you take the gearbox off make sure you replace the rear main anyway ;)

Thanks for the replies guys,

 

Olly, I will have a play with the biting point, hopefully it will do the trick.

 

Smithy, if it doesn't then I will be in touch. What deal would you do if I had a clutch, flywheel and pivot ball?

 

Thanks

 

Justin

Would certainly look to discount 60-70 quid for all 3 items mate.

cheers

smithy